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Removing the oil pump one of the bolts snapped.... not sticking out below, flush with the surface.... yay

I started looking at "nice" clamps and realized the subaru OEM ones are like $1-3 a piece which is often cheaper... I bought some of those - I got all my parts and took the car apart today, everything is going smoothly except the timing cover... whoever thought of putting a metal nut held in by the rear plastic cover, and exposing the back of it to elements... probably not genius... my plan is to throw a longer bolt and washer + nut to hold covers on where I can. Only had a couple hours today, will finish up tomorrow and post some pictures. Only other issue is I forgot to buy sealer for the oil pump - I actually got a gasket with the Fel-Pro oil pump seal (the blue o-ring) but I figured since Subaru didn't use a gasket neither will I. Or I'll do the gasket + Permatex Ultra Gray Thanks everyone for the help picking parts and such.

Wow thanks for all the info! I'm not too worried since it's obviously slow but I do like to stop leaks before they get bad... I'll clean it up and see if I can replace some washers or O rings, thanks guys

Hey guys, I'm still not familiar enough with this car to realize what's leaking - but I thought maybe this is a common issue or someone else has seen it. Here are pictures of the driver side of my Automatic Transmission: http://imgur.com/a/S28G2 Something is defnitely leaking.. any idea what? Kind of looks like the transmission cooler pipes might be involved. In a day or two I will get around to degreasing the underside of the car and will clean the area up a bit - that way I can track the leak down better, but I'm having a hard time sticking my head in there just to see what's going on. Thanks!

What exactly is the difference between good quality and cheap ones? And can I get good quality ones at Home Depot or Online or what?

I took a look at my hoses they are pretty dry looking, some look torn or like they're getting ready to fall apart where the clamps grab them. I believe I found all the Subaru part numbers in case anyone in the future needs them: edit: I also found molded rubber Gates hoses including the heater hoses Heater hose inlet 72411AC020 (also Gates 19133) Heater hose outlet 72421AC000 ( Gates 19131 ) Little water pump hose 807615081 (GATES 19535) Throttle body hose 807607191 (Gates 18010 or 18257) Radiator upper hose 45167AA020 (Gates 21851) Radiator lower hose 45167AA030 (Gates 21852) I went with the Gates hoses since they were 40% cheaper or so ... and most are the right shape already so no rerouting or anything crazy

I ordered the two camshaft seals (TIMKEN brand) and a Crankshaft seal kit (fel-pro TCS45919, looks like it includes oil pump gasket and o ring in it?) from Rockauto. I'll look into buying the water pump gasket and any hoses that don't look like they've been replaced from Subaru (Where do you guys buy your OEM parts? heartless mentioned SubaruGenuineParts) And yes I agree on the keeping tools in the car, but crank bolt coming loose is pretty serious, should I be using thread locker on it or just torque it to spec and it'll be fine? Also, as far as compressing the tensioner being a pain, the Gates kit from Amazon comes with a new tensioner that is pre compressed (as far as I can tell from the images) edit: I wasn't kidding about Amazon gift card credit and rewards points : http://i.imgur.com/M4eMnDO.png edit2: looking around on SubaruGenuineParts just to see what the hoses cost and such, can only find lower and upper radiator hose and the little water pump hose. Can not find throttle body or heater core hoses.

I was surprised when I found out the 95 is non-interference, but I know that if it breaks in the middle of a road trip I'll be paying hundreds for someone to do it, and I also know rubber parts become pretty brittle after 18 years. I am actually planning on buying the Gates kit from Amazon, it's cheaper than Rockauto: http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP254-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B003TUA5W6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3UTE5RI7D1DXL&coliid=I2XFJP4TQF4SZF (it also helps that I have some Amazon gift card / rewards points etc) comes with new tensioner, water pump, and belt marked with lines to help you line up the timing

Oops! I added car in profile and figured it would show up under my name or something, added to Signature now. Okay thanks guys, looks like there's 6 hoses total to worry about, so I will look at 6 hoses and replace as needed. That's pretty much what I wanted (I expected more since I think Miata had 9? I'm still pretty new to working on cars) As far as timing belt I'm looking at a gates kit with water pump, and Timken/Felpro camshaft and crank shaft seals, and I believe the oil pump o ring and gasket is included in the fel pro kit with crankshaft seal. I don't really care about keeping everything looking OEM, just has to be functional and good quality. I got the car for really cheap, but it was a little neglected in terms of maintenance other than oil changes. Every time I drive it I think about how great it rides considering the age of the suspension parts and such. I am a strong believer in preventative maintenance and so the car is slowly getting caught up on all the scheduled items that I do not have a record for (including timing belt/water pump which are original)

Hey guys, I'll be doing a timing belt/water pump kit soon, and want to replace any coolant hoses at that time since I'll have the coolant drained. I'm having a hard time finding a list of all the rubber coolant hoses on my car so I make sure I check them all or just replace them all while I'm at it. (Working on my Miata there was an OEM kit of every single hose that I bought) So is there a list of all these hoses, and is there an easy way to buy them all? I see only some are available aftermarket, I guess OEM for the others?

Hey Guys, I'm looking at getting some outer tie rod ends and a couple other things, and here's my confusion Rockauto carries these parts: MOOG Part # SUES2870 (European market part) $12.60 MOOG Part # ES3712 (US Market part) $22.79 I am in the US with a US spec Subaru, are these parts interchangeable and can I use the almost half price tie rod end? Or should I just buy the more expensive US part? (This is for my 1995 Legacy Wagon)

I actually went to junkyard - the Subarus there either had their fuel filler neck and other parts missing, or they were as rusty as mine... From diagrams I understand what the two small pipes in wheel well do I think... I do not understand the disconnected hard lines on the top of fuel tank... edit: copy/paste from some other thread There are 3 hoses connected to the canister: 1. PURGE - Leads to a purge solenoid near the throttle body (mine was under the intake manifold). This solenoid is connected to the throttle body, and when open, draws a vacuum on the whole system, sucking fuel vapors out of the canister for clean burning 2. VENT - this allows clean air to enter the system, which is needed to displace gas that you burn. There is also a solenoid controlling this hose, called the vent solenoid. 3. CHARGE - this line connects to the top of the gas tank and is where the fuel vapors come from

Hello everyone, so I just got myself a 1998 Red Legacy Wagon, in 5 speed with the 2.2L engine. P0440 error code is present. I got it for pretty cheap and knew going in that the evap system is a mess, the previous owner installed what I believe is the wrong filler neck? I have two open hoses that smell of raw gas in the wheel well. I also found an extra middle access port above the gas tank, opened that up and there are also disconnected hoses there. I'm trying to find help regarding what the system is supposed to look like. The two little hoses are super rusted out, I'm thinking of tearing them out all the way back to where ever they connect and just replacing them with rubber hose? I also saw the post where the guy replaced his with a copper tube, even though that's the older model I believe with just one hose. Anyways I took some pictures, open connections are circled in red. I'm looking for help on how I can repair the system, or what the system is supposed to look like when it's not butchered [Album of pictures here]