courtjesterclown

So with the engine running at 1500 rpm, what should my numbers be?

got the multimeter, got the new alternator. Took as long to drive to get the alternator as to put it on. Got it all installed, started the car, checked voltage at the pos and neg posts, showed 14.08. Then tested between the batt post and alternator post showed 14.12, both with no load. Testing with a load, (head lights, heater, radio,) showed 12.95 at both places. Both were tested at idle.

Thanks, thats kind of what i was thinking. Im off to the parts store, i'll post back with hopefully good luck later. Thanks again to everyone.

Stupid question here, but if the alternator is going bad wouldnt the batt light come on in the dash? It comes on when the key is on the on position, so i know it still works.

This was tested at idle, around 750 rpms.

Ok so today took the battery out and took it to NAPA to have them charge and check it. Left it for a while, showed back up and they said it was bad, wouldnt hold the charge. This batt was only a month old, bought it february 4th. They warrantied it, got the new one, along with a new 4 ga. negative cable. Installed the new cable and battery, cleaned all connections, tightened, etc.... Cranked and started just fine. voltage showed 12.3 with headlights, heater, and radio on. Showed 13.0 with everything off. I guess its time to swap the alternator? Should i drive to the parts store and have them check it before i swap? And do you have any preferences when it comes to which parts store to use for alternator? Thanks again for all the help.

I suppose there is a chance of rodent damage, but i highly doubt it. It seems almost to be an intermittent charging problem, could the jimmy rigged neg cable be an issue? Also if i go to the parts store, im sure they arent going to have a custom fit cable, so will a universal top post cable in the right length be ok?

Ok so i went out again, started up fine. I took it for a drive, but i noticed when i turned on the headlights and the heater the clock light on the radio got really dim, as did the gear indicator on the dash. Measured the voltage between, the neg post and the engine block and the tranny case, and it showed no voltage. I measured running voltage between neg a pos. posts again, with heater on and headlights on, showed 11.9. With heater and headlights off, showed 12.9 volts. I did notice the negative battery cable clamp had been broken at the bottom, and had been jimmy rigged back together. Before i go throwing parts, is there any other definitive test i can do to rule out either the cable and/or the alternator?

The Car is a 1994 Subaru Legacy, Turbo, Automatic.

Ok guys, to the point here. In a blizzard right now and having some issues. I have went through three napa batteries in two years on my 1994 Turbo Legacy. The recent one is three weeks old. Sometimes when im driving my seatbelt alarm starts chiming and doesnt stop, even with both belts buckled, it still chimes. I go out thismorning to start the car, nothing. Dead battery. So i jump it from my gfs car, let it charge for ten mins or so, then take off to work a half mile away. By the time i get into the parking lot, all my interior lights are very dim and the abs light came on in the dash. I turned on the windshield wipers to try and clear some more snow, and boom the car died right there. Went to crank it back up and barely turned over and then nothing, just a click. Got it jumped again, let it charge with the cables still hooked up to the other vehicle. Checked the voltage with a meter, showed 13.5. Unhooked the cables, the motor raised in rpms slightly and checked the meter again, showed 12.45 volts. Drove it back home, ( all lights, heater, radio off) and pulled in the lot at my apt and shut it off. Then tried to start it back up, and it cranked over fast just like it should. What is going on?? Sorry if i rambled on, but i tried to detail everything as much as i could.