joemlship

They look the same as the other two - normal according to the charts I've seen

Thanks for all the help. Haven't had much of a chance to do much poking around what with the holidays and I've been working long hours. Had the day off today so I was able to test a couple things out. I was going to test fuel pressure, but realized that the fuel hoses were too big for my adaptors so I'll have to do that another day. I did remove the vacuum tube from the fuel pressure regulator and there was no signs of fuel leaking out. I was able to do both a vacuum test and a compression test: Intake vacuum was 22" Hg. I let the car run for a while and the needle stayed steady. I turned it off and then back on and the needle vibrated rapidly between 22 and 21" Hg. but never fell below that.... The compression test (engine warm): 1- 150 PSI 3- 140 PSI 2- No compression registered 4- 130 PSI I wasn't able to do a wet compression test because I had some stuff to do with the family today. The driver side of the engine was kind of a pain to get the compression gauge hoses installed all the way. At first, I wasn't registering anything with cylinder #4, but then tightened up the hose and was able to get 130 PSI reading. Cylinder 2 was also kind of a pain due to the battery and the alternator being kind of in the way, but I removed the battery and moved the alt to make sure that everything was as tight as it could be, then re-installed them and did the compression test over again & still no reading on the gauge from cylinder 2... I'll try again tomorrow and see what I can find. I looked at the timing belts a few weeks ago and everything looked fine, but with the driver's side of the engine being significantly lower than the passenger's, maybe the belt's off a tooth? Loose belt?

Thanks for the ideas, I'll give them a try in the next few days. I forgot to mention that there's a pretty loud rattle from the exhaust, though I'm not sure where the source of the rattle is. If I place my hand on the exhaust pipe the rattle goes away. I ran Seafoam through a vacuum line to see if there's any exhaust leaks & everything was fine; all the white "smoke" went out the tail pipe.

1993 Loyale wagon, EA82, SPFI.... I've been trying to hunt this one down for a while and have had really no luck so far.... The loyale only gets about 250ish miles per tank of gas & idles poorly - around 500 rpm at idle with intermittent hunting & missing at idle. What I've replaced, all within the past few months.... cap rotor spark plugs (with NGKs) spark plug wires MAP CTS Throttle Body, with TPS Intake manifold gaskets (one was torn) IAC When checking the timing, the car is around 18 degrees BTDC and the disty is at the end of its travel. I connect the green connectors when testing timing, but from what I've read the Check Engine light should come on once these are connected, but this light does not come on when the green connectors are connected on my car. I noticed that there was a .8 volt drop between the ECU and the one connector with the brown wire. I ran a jumper wire from the ECU directly to the green connector with the black / red wire in order to bypass any corrosion in that circuit and the light still doesn't come on. I've checked the timing belts and they don't seem to be off a tooth. When I took out & re-installed the disty, the rotor was pointed directly at the #1 wire position on the cap, so I don't think I installed it off a tooth, but I'll re-check. I've sprayed starting fluid around the hoses for leaks and haven't noticed any difference in the idle. My next move is to check: Compression Fuel Pressure Engine Vacuum I also have a backup ECU that I was going to swap out as well. I'm just kind of scratching my head on this one and was wondering if anyone had any other ideas or experienced anything similar to what I'm going through?

Just to make sure I don't make a mistake - if the timing belt ended up being off a tooth, would I just have to take the belt off and rotate the cam to the proper position & then put the belt back on?

Ah, cool, thanks!

Yeah, I connected the green connectors & made sure the car was warmed up, too. When it warms up a little I'll take the distributor out again and re-install. ivans, by "Tb off one tooth" do you mean the throttle body being out of adjustment? Thanks for the help Joel

1993 Loyale, SPFI With the timing set at 20 degrees BTDC the distributor is all the way at the end of it's travel...is that normal? I made sure that the rotor was pointed at the brake booster / cylinder 1 position so I don't think the distributor's off a tooth...

Hi there Got a 93 Loyale, SPFI, manual... Looking to see if someone has a photo or basic diagram of how the vacuum lines are supposed to be routed? The under-hood diagram isn't very clear to me and the other diagrams I've looked up online are poor at best....I just want to make sure everything is routed the way it should.