01 Outback
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Posts posted by 01 Outback
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I am looking at an 04 Anniversary Edition for my wife. The car looks good in the pictures and has 210 K. Owner says brake rotors are warped but all else is good. $1900. He claims synthetic oil since he has owned it and 3K oil change intervals. My wife has some health and vision issues and is having trouble driving and parking her 90 Cadillac Brougham De Elegance. She loves my 01 Outback and wants her own. I have put over 200K on my Outback and it is the best car I have ever owned. Is there any particular problem areas I need to look for with a 6 cylinder car?
Thanks
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Further investigation revealed a broken transmission mount. Bought a new one and installed it and the car is smooth again. Just a hint of steering wheel shake at 65 MPH which could be the Michelins need a rebalance after 50K of use. Perfectly driveable as is.
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I bought a used shaft from the same yard where I got the last one. I inspected it and it appears to be perfect and at $105 a bargain (hopefully). If I get 100000 out of this one like I did the last one it is money well spent. 30 day warranty as well so we will see...
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I have done the sprint of shame down the interstate after hearing a thump and watching the wheel outrun the car. Since then I always retorque aluminium wheels after 50 miles or so. I carry my torque wrench and 19 MM socket in the car and usually get about 1/8 of a turn on some or all of the lug nuts after my 5000 mile oil change and tire rotation. For some reason the wheels don't hold the torque until the 2nd or 3rd retorque. Luckily in my case none of the studs were buggered up and I took one nut off of each of the other wheels and managed to jack it up on the shoulder of the highway and reinstall the wheel.
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I have a used driveshaft bought from the salvage yard that I put in 100000 miles ago and recently started feeling the vibration in the seat and floor and just a bit of steering wheel shake plus an audible cyclic noise. Car has new front brakes and rotors and a new lh front cv axle. I cant feel any slop in the ujoints but a bit of play in the center support. So it is off to the salvage yard again for another used driveshaft. I hope I get lucky again... I am also contemplating trying a new ujoint offered by an ebay vendor that says it comes with detailed instructions detailing the procedure for removing the staked in joint and installing theirs. Has anyone here ever done this? If so can you enlighten me? The original driveshaft from the car had a rear joint out so it would be the easiest one to do...
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01 Outback 347K bought used off a car lot with 169K. I am the 2nd owner.
I had a reman motor put in at 254K after changing head gaskets on old motor twice. I have a 122 mile daily commute in DC traffic and I get 25 MPG at 80 MPH and above. I am a Lucas user and use thier oil treatment along with Mobil1 5w30 and a Mobil1 filter changed at 5K intervals. I use Lucas 80/90 in the diiferentials change at 30K and Lucas transmission fluid and thier additive changed at 30K intervals. I put a set of new cats (ebay) on at 250K. I have to replace the anti knock sensor once a year (autozone lifetime) and of course the usual consumeables (tires brake pads and rotors)It is the best car I have ever owned.
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Mine did the same thing. I used the caveman method for freon servicing and over serviced it. 2 cans on an empty system after oring replacement and part of a 3rd which as it turns out was too much. My scientific repair involved letting a little freon out of the low side servicing port and AC blows 60 degrees with no more noise.
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My 01 had the same fuel stink on startup. The colder the outside temp the worse it was. Thanks to the forum here I checked the fuel filter clamps and each one took between an 1/8 and a 1/4 turn. Stink is gone. 5 minutes and a JIS screwdriver...
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We dont have those type of inspections here yet thank God. So long as the CEL isnt on they dont check for anything other than exhaust leaks and that all required emissions equipment is installed. For the price if it lasts a year or two that will be at least 60000 miles for me as I drive 600 miles a week just to work and back. I am hoping to get 500000 miles out of the car and then reevaluate depends on how long the reman motor that has 85000 on it now lasts...
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I had the Outback on the lift for the usual 5000 mile oil change and tire rotation and when I checked the front differential I found it low on gear oil and quite a bit of oil slung on the rh side of the front differential and cv joint shaft. I assumed the culprit was a failed cv joint shaft seal. Closer inspection revealed the area around the seal dry. Then I saw the trail of gear oil ended at the dipstick, which was quite loose in the hole. The oring on the dipstick had hardened and crystallized. I found a suitable John Deere tractor hydraulic oring and now the dipstick is nice and snug in the hole. I verified the differential vent didnt have a mud dauber nest or similar obstruction and the level is still at full and no more gear oil slinging...
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My 01 Outback's converters gave up the ghost recently at 337000 miles. They were aftermarket and have been patched and repaired numerous times by my local shop since I purchased the car used with 169000 miles on it in 2012.I checked around as did my local exhaust repair shop run by a trusted friend. The cheapest he could find was a $300 set with no gaskets or hardware from Walker that didnt fit so he sent them back. I got on ebay and found a direct fit kit with gaskets and hardware for $165 shipped. They were projected to take a week from Ontario to Front Royal, VA. They arrived in 3 days. We had to heat the pipe in between the 2 converters and bend it down 1/4 inch to keep it from striking one of the heat shield retaining bolts. After that it was a perfect fit. No more leaks and no more PO 420 after 2 trips of my 120 mile round trip commute. The gaskets and the bung they sent for the unused 3rd hole were a perfect fit. I noted the slight fitment issue and gave the vendor a glowing feedback.
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Not sure if they are the same type system but I just went through a similar issue on my 01 Outback. It turned out to be the AC relay. I put 12v to the compressor with a jumper wire and it worked like a champ. $12 at Autozone for a new relay with lifetime warranty.
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HO2S Sensor 1 Bank1 Sensor is what the ad says the CEL is on for in a 03 outback with 3.0 6 cylinder...Can anyone enlighten me? The car is cheap at 2200 if that is an easy fix..
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HO2S Sensor 1 Bank1 Sensor is what the ad says the CEL is on for in a 03 outback with 3.0 6 cylinder...Can anyone enolighten me? The car is cheap at 2200 if that is an easy fix..
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You get what you pay for. My 292 K 01 Outback started the dreaded front wheel bearing howl on my way back from a road trip to Rock Hill, SC with a newly acquired hot rod 2 stroke RZ350 Yamaha behind it on the bike trailer. I went to a local parts house whose title has the word zone in it and bought a set of thier store brand bearings and had them installed at my local and well trusted shop. Between running my farm and working full time I dont have time to do it myself. 200 miles and less than 2 trips later said store brand bearings began to howl again. The young manager gave a me a set of Timkens ( almost double in price for the Timkins) for free even swap. My friend at the shop gave me a big discount and now the Outback drives like a new one.
Bottom line don't buy the cheapies....
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My 01 gets 1.5 to 2 MPG better with premium that 87. Not enough to offset 40 cents different in price per gallon. I am averaging 23.5 MPG on a 122 mile daily round trip commute at mostly 80 MPH.
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My 01 does the same thing from time to time. I went and got some WD 40 dry lock lube and sprayed the mechanism and in the key hole. Then I worked the lock both electrically with the button and manually with the key until it started working....
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My 01 Outback with 32 K on a reman motor uses no oil unless I let it go beyond my self imposed 5K oil change interval. The original 254 K motor did virtually the same thing. If I let it go beyond that it will use a pint every 1000 miles. I use Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer and Mobil 1 5w30 with Mobil 1 oil filters exclusively. The motor doesnt leak.
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Retrieved OB from the front end place and am pleased to report it is like driving a brand new car...
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Thanks for the reply. The tires are about 1/2 gone. I doubt that they are worn 1/4 of an inch. I will measure the difference and buy 2 more if necessary. The alignment shop found the cv joint bent and wheel bearing damaged when they road tested it. $420 more. Total cost for this deer avoidance $1150...
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Thanks for the reply. The tires are about 1/2 gone. I doubt that they are worn 1/4 of an inch. I will measure the difference and buy 2 more if necessary. The alignment shop found the cv joint bent and wheel bearing damaged when they road tested it. $420 more. Total cost for this deer avoidance $1150...
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I have an appointment tomorrow morning with the guy at my local shop who does the repair work I don't have time to do myself. Between the farm and my 122 mile round trip to work every day plus mandated OT, my wrenching time is quite limited. Thanks for the kind words. With any luck, I will have the OB on the road again by Friday : )
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I ordered a lower control arm, a strut, and ball joint, plus 2 new tires and I have a line on 2 used wheels for $50 each from a local salvage yard. All the parts should be here tomorrow.
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