farmer
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Posts posted by farmer
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How do the taillights fit into the ABS system on a 2007 Legacy. The ABS fault light and the taillights both come on together.
There is an OBD code for other issues, like IAC and misfires on #1 and #2.
Thanks
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I would wonder why he felt the problem was more serious than just an air bubble that needed burbed from the system. That's something that's been around for ages in all makes. It's been a real problem in Ford Rangers of latter years.
What you could do is bring the engine up to operating temperature with the radiator cap off and see if any compression blowby is coming out of the radiator. The water should be warm at the radiator outlet. That tells you the thermostat has opened. If there are no air bubbles in the coolant after about five minutes of running, there shouldn't be a problem with the head gaskets leaking into the cooling system.
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If an air pocket at the thermostat is the problem, just drill an 1/8 hole in the Tstat to bleed the air out. They are pretty common, but not all thermostats have them.
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IF it was just the water pump and watch the temp gauge, I wouldn't get too excited, but with the interference engines it makes me nervous. I did put a Direct Imports water pump back in it. About half again as much, but It was the only alternative at four local parts stores.
When I saw the belt sitting cocked on roller, I knew I got lucky this time.
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This post is more for information than anything else. I'll add it to my "Erratic Issues" post (Erratic issues) of some time ago, which is gaining a lot of text as time goes along - still a great car and love it.
I was having a sound from under the car that sounded very much like a gear slap. I thought it must be coming from something in the torque convertor/tranny area and would watch it. The last couple of days it got progressively louder, so I got out my DIY stethescope to get it pinned down.
I traced it to the front of the engine, which not only surprised me, but got me a little concerned about engine problems that I really didn't need.
What had happened was my relatively new Gates water pump with about 25K on it was on the way out and the timing belt was tracking off center, striking the front cover. I guess I'm spoiled with 200K water pump change intervals, but the pump that was replaced with the timing belt was done.
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Finishing up this adventure on my Subaru. Flashing light hasn't returned. I'll enter the event in my Erratic Issues post.
Thanks for the help.
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After about 150 miles the flashing AT Oil Temp Light hasn't come back nor has the P0107 OBD code. I'll give it a week, then log it into my post that has all the other things I've had with this little Subie.
So far what I did was clean the grounds to intake manifold coming off the battery terminal plus two others from body to engine and cleaned the MAP sensor with carb spray. I also messed with wires at the MAP wiring connection. The latter could have something to do with it. I had the same thing on the engine temp sensor (for the computer) to get the cooling fans working again. They must just get a little corrosion inside the insulation of the connector.
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Well, cleaned a handful of grounds and the map sensor with a little carb cleaner. 70 miles round trip to work and no flashing light.
I see why the MAP or MAF might bring on a code in the tranny. Either would be part of the engine load logic that controls the shifting.
I'll keep cleaning grounds. There are supposed to be 31 on this car, so I've only just begun.
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Well, I'm not getting any stored codes for the AT on this one, so I'm guessing the problem is in the MAP or wiring for it.
Nice to see this many grounds on a car, though. Guess it means you won't have any problems.
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P0107, Dave. Absolute Pressure circuit - low input (paraphrasing the description, but the ID is correct) This is the OBDII code for the engine.
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Thanks a lot for the replies. I have the MAP sensor and got a code for that, so I replaced it.
And John, I'll go over that thing for grounds. I found three, so I'll disconnect and clean them up.
Appreciate the help,
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This seems to be pretty common with Subies with a few variations and the other day I got one.
Driving with everything fine on my 2000 Outback sedan, mileage 233,000, fluid changed with Max Life a few months ago and the light comes on when I decelerated and continued flashing.
I stopped, checked fluid level = fine, restarted, no light for rest of day.
On restart the light doesn't flash the 16 times, I have read about, but the flashing light comes on about every 40 miles with what seems to be a hard downshift = light clunk. Stop car, restart - no light for another 40 or so miles. Car shifts and runs very well.
I read where a MAF sensor (mine has the MAP) can bring something like this on and I did find an OBDII code for MAP circuit. I have another MAP sensor to try in it.
Open to suggestions/comments. Appreciate the help, as always.
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Thanks for the response.
I have power and no ground and no light. I had two broken wires at the hinge in the connector with no license light or taillight on the trunk lid. The two wires intact were a black and a black with red stripe. The two broken were a light brown and a white.
I must have reversed them when I put the connector back together. The wires were broken back inside without any insulation left on the short side.
I did get the license light and the tailight on with the reassembly - those come on/off with the headlights. Now I just have the backup light not working - which I noticed later. I assume the power to the license light and the taillight woud come through the same wire. The power to the backup would obviously come through another wire since the switch isn't for grounding.
Would the backup light ground through a different wire than those two? I do have a four pin connector, that would give one ground, one reverse switch powered for backup, and one for the taillight/license light. Is the fourth wire a separate ground for the backup light?
Thanks for the help.
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I'm sure this has been asked before, but I can't some up with an answer.
I have the automatic tranny. I have power at the backup light bulbs - both wires (which says the ground is bothered), so I was wanting to check the backup switch, thinking it provides the completion of the circuit by grounding. Bulbs and fuses are all good.
I can come up with a backup switch from aftermarket parts, but it is apparently for a manual transmission. The parts store tells me there is no distinction between manual and automatic trannies by their reference material. On my transmission it looks like there are two electrical components held in place by nylon flanges with retainer bolts - about 10 mm. One of those is on the drivers side at the rear of the tranny and the other on top of the transmission, also near the rear.
My question is - where is the switch located on the automatic transmission and does it complete the circuit for the lights by grounding?
As always, appreciate the help.
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I'll give that a try , Cougar. The interesting thing here is, considering the winters, and Subarus go with winters, you don't see many Subies in salvage yards. I've ran across a couple of Foresters and one Outback wagon, but no Legacys or Imprezas. I call around, but as a rule no one has any to speak of.
I mentioned that to one of the guys that handles a lot of those types of parts and he said you just don't see a lot of it in this area. The weather here is Subie weather - not as bad as out East, but still we have winters that Subies show up in. They are on the road and we have plenty of dealers in the metros.
People in the industry say the Subies either just don't wear ou,t or get rebuilt and put back on the road - a real credit to the vehicle. I'll keep milking the miles out of my Outback and we'll see how the 2014 Forester my wife has holds up. Hopefully the newer models are just as good.
Take care and thanks for all the help
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Broken wire!! A little solder and tape and we're ready to go.
Apparently the "Subaru" logo on the back doesn't have a bulb of its own but gets some dim illunination from other tailights or the license light it appears. It has more of a subdued glow to it. I never had these lights working since I've had this car so finally getting all the pieces working. Nice car and really appreciate having it with the winter here.
Just wondering if the pigtail that feeds the tailights on the the trunk lid may be available as a replacement part - if anyone would know or have one.
Thanks a lot
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That sure sounds like this. Appreciate all the help on this thing and other Subie issues I've had. I did find a broken wire on my taillight problem. Hopefully that will be my last Subie frontier for a while.
Take care
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Well, moving along to my next little problem I have no lights on the trunk lid on my 2000 Outback. The parking lights to either side work as well as the brake lights and turn signals, but everything on the trunk lid doesn't. Simple logic tells me a wiring break as all the fuses and bulbs are OK, unless there is a maverick relay to consider.
But I saw some posts by Subie techs that the column switch for the parking lights is the usual problem. The parking lights turn on and off with this switch, but it doesn't seem to have any effect on the hatch lights which would be the license light, some other tail lights, and the spoiler light and the light for the Subaru logo.
My question is where is the most likely place for the problem to be - in the wiring, a relay, or the column switch?
Thanks a lot for all the help.
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This wire, Cougar, would be positioned like this:
There are six pins. Four across and one up on each side to form a "U" shape. If you laid the four pins flat, looking at the end profile, on the top right would be a blue wire and just under it on the right would be the white wire with the light blue stripe. The black/white ground that got me lights is on the left side of the "U". I'm not sure how to reference it with pin numbers, sorry.
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I grounded the black wire with the white stripe and it brought on the dash lights - hallelujah!!!! I looked more closely at the white wire and see it has a light blue stripe on it so it may have been referenced as something other than a white wire, dunno.
I really appreciate the help from Cougar and Fairtax4me. This helps to no end. I may go ahead and see I can come up with a module for this car, but if not, still OK.
Thanks a bunch, Later.
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Thanks Cougar. I plan on trying this afternoon and will post back on hopefully sucess.
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Ok I'll give that a try. My order on a replacement module was cancelled for availability reasons. So I'm over to plan "B". "C" was a flashlight, which i've been using.
Appreciate it.
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Well, in checking this further, on the plug as it sits, without the module plugged is - a hot purple (or violet), a hot black with white stripe, and a white wire that is not grounded to anything. I'm sure of the module as being the illumination control module. It's labeled as a Cont Assy - Illumi # 83023AE01A. It is a six wire plug.
The question I have in that I can get dash lights without the dimming function (which I'm fine with) is which wire should I ground and when I do should I leave the module plugged in as a jumper between terminals or should I take it out and jumper with wires at the open end of the plug?
As always, appreciate the help.
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Thanks a lot Cougar. This is my 2000 Outback and the plug connecting to the module only has one white wire, but there are black ones. If they don't need the module in the circuit, I should be able to test the black wires with an ohm meter for continuity to ground.
Let me check that out. I grounded the only white wire (a completely white), but maybe I should be on a black with maybe a white stripe.
It wouldn't suprise me if I had the wrong wire, but I swhould be able to narrow this down.
2000 Legacy Spun Bearing
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Never worked on the Subie engines, but I did a lot of other makes. If the car is in your future for a few more years I would go with the used motor with crank journals plasti gauged and bearings replaced. Then the head gasket, since that seems to be a big question mark with the H4 s and the timing belt.
If it's more of a get by for now fix, I would get the used engine and put in it.