[How do I fix the shifting on my car?]

I have a '91 Loyale with a 3spd auto tranny.  Kickdown on the tranny is real unpredictable.  Is it controlled by vacuum?  How do I fix it?

[Any suggestions on where to get parts from?]

I finally installed the bushings I got from Gary and the clunking noise is gone.  Thanks Gary.

[Any suggestions on where to get parts from?]

the junk yard can be your friend,  And the sway bar bushings should be available on rock auto  I found some on carpartsdiscount and I think APW

 

The swaybar bushings on RockAuto are for the bar to chassis mounts.  I needs the end mounts which connect the bar to the control arm.  I can't find those on RockAuto, carpartsdiscount, or APW.

[Any suggestions on where to get parts from?]

The swaybar end bushings are gone on my Loyale.  The intake boot on the engine is also cracked.  These parts are not available on RockAuto does not show these parts.  Is there a better place to order these parts than the dealership?

[How hard is a CV boot replacement?]

Alright, the shaft is back in.  Overall: this was a pretty simple job, but next time I would Newbie's advice and just order a new shaft.  New boots from NAPA were $38.  A new shaft from RockAuto delivered would have been $55.  Shafts are a lot cheaper than they used to be.

[How hard is a CV boot replacement?]

so which way does the retainer go back in?

[How hard is a CV boot replacement?]

You guys are making this way to tough.OP doesn't need to replace axle just reboot the inner end.

*Jack up car so front wheels are off the ground,put jackstands under rocker panels behind front tires

*use 3/16 pin punch+hammer to knock out roll pin near the transmission of the CV-always hammer out the roll pin from the DIVOT on the Cv axle cup

*If CV axle will slid on splined shaft from transmission,skip to next step.If not cuss at it,hit it with a hammer,spray penetrating fluid on the splines,heat the axle cup with a torch,repeat until CV axles cup moves freely on splines.

*Turn steering wheel to full lock,If lucky there will be enough room to slide CV axles off splines,If not remove the bolt/nut that hold the lower control arm to the crossmember.

*Tear rest of CV boot,and wipe out grease with rag/shop towels,old t shirt.Once clean you will see a circlip in the inner lip of the CV axle cup.Use a screw driver to remove clip.Cv axle cup should come free.

*remove remainder of CV boot from axle and CV cup.

*remove circlip that holds CV balls/retainer to axle shaft

*install boot onto shaft,reinstall CV balls/retainer +circlip,Install axle shaft into CV cup,reinstall circlip that locks the CV cup to the shaft,fill the boot with grease,install boot on CV cup,use whatever to hole CV boot to various parts

*Installation is reverse of removal. 

 

It sounds like you are suggesting I replace the boot without fully removing the shaft from the car.  Is it easy enough to do it this way or is it worth the time to fully remove it?

[Need 4x4 help]

if it was in 4x4 when you did that then it should have locked all 4 wheels. as the 4x4 on these solidly connectes the front ans rear wheels.

Good point.  But when you turn off the car does the 4WD disengage?

 

I tried driving up a steep slope on a jeep trail (probably 30-40% grade).  The wheels started spinning I stopped and put on the e-brake.  when I lifted my foot off the brake pedal the car started sliding backwards with the front wheels locked.

 

I'll have to go check that again.

[Need 4x4 help]

glad you got it figured out.. i still see the white connector plugged together, though i'm sure you unplugged it after that picture.. as far as the ebrake, stomp the brakes once then yank the ebrake, then yank the ebrake and stomp the brakes.then hold the ebrake and pump the brakes then vice versa. this will adjust the ratchet mechanism that keeps the ebrake tight.. its not an exact science but youll get it if you mess with it.. i have found on the autos the ebrake gets out of adjustment because no one uses it. hope that helps.

 

Yes, I unplugged the white connector.  I'm guessing someone looked in this engine bay and saw the unplugged wires and missing fuse and thought they needed to "fix" all of that stuff.

 

For the e-brake, it locks the front wheels just fine, but when I'm pointed uphill on a real steep slope on dirt, the car will slide down even with the front wheels locked.  I know this isn't a real smart place to park a car, I just wanted a picture.  I also occasionally want to do an E-brake turn, but I guess that won't be happening with this car.

[How hard is a CV boot replacement?]

To replace the boot itself, is it easy enough to disassemble the CV joint, or should I use one of those quick boot things that wraps around the joint?

[Need 4x4 help]

I took it out to some local trails.  4WD is definitely working now.  I tried to park it on a steep slope for a picture, but the parking brake is useless.  What's with the front wheel parking brake?

 

Anyway, thanks for all the help.  That's by far the cheapest 4x4 repair I've ever done.  Now on to the next issue:

 

[How hard is a CV boot replacement?]

I need a new front right inner boot.  From the Chilton manual, it looks like it's not to hard to remove the shaft with the exception of pulling the hub off.  It recommends a special too for hub removal.

 

Overall, how tough is this job and can I use a gear puller or hydraulic press to remove the hub instead of the special too?

 

[Need 4x4 help]

this is what the vacuum soleniods look like, on a push button 5 speed anyways, as i recall they are the same on an auto with 4x4...

 

 

 

 

and this is where and what the 2wd fuse is

 

 

I dont have the fuse inplace because i have a D/R now and my 4x4 is lever operated.

 

 

 

 

Its possible you don't have a 4x4 trans but instead a fulltime awd trans, and the button might be the Manual button. which explains the lack of vacuum soleniods.. we need more pictures, like one of the entire engine bay and the outside, the emblems and such, and one of the shifter. this will help us figure his out.

 

I think that's it, Ghandi!  Here's mine:

 

 

I'll pull it out and go do some 4 wheelin.  Thanks again, Ghandi.

[Need 4x4 help]

Good eye Akghandi. Looks like some cherry pits or pine cones also in the pic.

SET SOME RAT TRAPS. The varmits will eat your wires.

 

Those are rocks in the driveway.

[Need 4x4 help]

you know, the vacuum solenoids  are usually behind the drivers strut top.. but I don't see them in the pic/

 

 

also in that pic i see the green connectors are plugged together.. unplug those. they are not suposed to be plugged together normally. they are used for setting the timing.

 

 

The green and white connectors in that pic should not be plugged together. ones for setting the timing and the other is for clearing codes.

 

Thanks, I'll unplug those wires.

[Need 4x4 help]

 

 

 

 

 

[Need 4x4 help]

I would start by checking if a fuse has been inserted in the fuse holder near the wiper motor, under the hood. A fuse is inserted here to disable the 4wd (mainly for purposes of being towed) so if there is a fuse there, remove it. Cover on the holder should be marked with 'FWD'.  

 

Thanks for the info, but I'm not finding the fuse box.  Can you point it out?

 

[Need 4x4 help]

I recently bought a '92 Loyale wagon, auto tranny.  It is FWD with selectable 4WD, but the 4WD doesn't work.  The dash light tells me it's engaged, but the rear wheels don't get power to them.  Where do I start on troubleshooting?