sorli

My first guess is either the Ignitor (sadly the last component replaced) and or the Gas Pump (since it was making bunches of noise...though probably common). The Crankcase Sensor was one of my initial replacements when I first posted this message, but it and the Camshaft Sensor had no effect besides the loss of money swapping with new parts. Not a complaint, just the way it is! All in all, I wasted about $200 buying new and used parts, but my problem seems resolved and now I have a bunch of spare components if I need them sometime in the future. Thanks for the feedback, Sorli... PS - still cheaper then continuing to pay my mechanic to fix my problem that cost way more then $200 and was unable to fix my problems.

Dan, Just giving you the heads up that I think my problems as reported here have been resolved: 95 Legacy Wagon - Starting Problems...yikes It sounds like you are having similar issues and as noted in my 06/23 update...replacing the Fuel Pump and Ignitor finally resolved my problem. Take a look at my link above and let me know if you have any questions. Sorli...

As referenced yesterday, I swapped out from my 96 Legacy Outback U-Pull-It volunteer: Fuel Pump - much larger unit with short return line tubing into tank (no problems so far and much less noisy) Idle Control Valve - from same Outback MAF Sensor The ignitor Cleaned/checked all Gas and Vacuum sender and return lines My Legacy is running much better and I took it for a test drive 30 mins or so to warm things up and plan to wait a hour and test again when the problems usually occur with engine getting hot and then sitting for a hour or two. Update (possibly final update) - looks like one of the options above has finally solved my problem! I suspect my problem was finally either Fuel Pump or Ignitor related, but I'm not going to switch either now they are working just to test my theory. In the end, I went through a bunch of different suggestions, Fuel Sender issues, Clogged/Leaking Fuel/Vacuum Lines, Relays, Sensors, with the final changes listed above. As noted, I got he car hot this afternoon and let it sit as usual for one or two hours as when the issues usually occur. Car cranked and turned over starting without hesitation and on the first try, which never happened before after driving and then sitting for a couple of hours. I'll know more in the coming days when I drive and test things out on a full day of driving in town and will update if I notice anything. I'd also like to hear form everyone on what you think my final problems were??? Thank You and appreciate all the feedback and patience with my efforts and questions! Sorli...

Hmm... Can you clarify for the newbie??? I replaced the 2 pin one on the water cross pipe and believe it had a brown terminal. Not sure what the Single Spade Terminal One is...only single spade unit I've located in the engine relates the Knock Sensor that I haven't replaced (though I do have a used spare). Actually, there is another single spade terminal at the front just behind the Crankcase sensor and that wasn't replaced either. The unit I replaced was the Engine Temp Sensor just below the Idle Control Valve, but as noted elsewhere....my replacement Temp Sensor could also be bad and I just need to get another new unit to make sure this not the problem. Thanks for the clarification! Sorli...

Sorry about that...but it is honestly hard to remember what I've done and haven't done over the last 2 years. Thankfully, I've been able to live through the problems and still drive my Legacy at times with patience...plenty of patience! I suspect you are correct and their is something wrong when the engine gets hot with the ignition, but I'm also covering those bases (replacing the Coil Pack, Sparks, Cables, etc) to resolve those issues. Thanks and understand... I also suspect I may be having a cable short and the Ignition Relay comes up faulty at times and won't resolve till I find the short. The main Engine Harness was rechecked/plugged in yesterday, and I'll have more information this afternoon how my changes have effected things today. Thanks everyone!!!! Sorli...

That would be grand, but yes it has been many times with no or limited success. Seems like it, but my problems only occur when the car is hot (middle of Summer in Florida), when showing problems it wnt start no matter how I fuel the vehicle, and it still avoid notion and why I replaced the fuel pump this afternoon. Right now I'm busy swapping and testing parts, and I'll either find the issues this summer or it will go to the bone yard and replaced next semester. Either way, I spent better half of day swapping other parts picked up from UPullIt like the Fuel Sender unit, MAF Sensor, and making sure things like Gas and Vacuum Lines were clean and flowing properly. I'll do more testing tomorrow and should receive my Fuel Pressure Tester also early week planned for diagnostics, but suspect some component is only effected when hot, pressure builds up, or similar. One thing interesting about the fuel pump...is the size difference between my 95 Legacy and the 96 Legacy Outback donor car. The replacement unit has a much large motor and short return pipes. My original Legacy Fuel Pump was rebuilt years ago when I initially began having problems, but the problem seemed to get worse. After two years trying to have my mechanic fix my issues, I began to realize he simply wasn't able to fix my car and I had to do my own repairs. Thankfully, I'm 45 year old student back finishing my engineering degree and have the summer mostly free to test and play parts swap. I plan to finish up tomorrow (afternoon rain) and then test drive my car tomorrow after church hopefully with some more info on my progress in the coming week. Thanks for the advice, Sorli...

Sadly, I tried your suggestions and the car ran fine on the way to town and did the usual problems after sitting for an hour or so. Car would not start on first crank, turns over, but won't engage. Also tried the placing the gas peddle to the flour to start without injectors being overly aggressive and just in case they are leaking, and this did not work at first, but after 5 tries...engine cranked right up and took off. Couple things of interest, found a fuel line leak at the Gas Filter that I tightened and did not notice previously. I may have come lose when I disconnected the return vapor line and plugged the out pipe from the manifold. Also noticed, that when starting the car...I can hear the gas pump kicking into gear and if I wait for full pressure...nothing, but if I turn the key to on for a brief second, then the car starts. Pretty weird and plan to snag the Fuel Pump from U-Pull-It just in case it something wrong with my new replacement added a couple of years ago. Honestly, getting tired of just swapping parts around, but it is a lot cheaper then going to a Subaru expert or dealer and simply having them swap parts that costs extensively more and includes labor charges. I may not have much choice and running out of options and may just end up retiring the car and cutting my loses. Either way, I should have my Fuel Pressure Tester soon and maybe just maybe it will give me some indications. Also need to pickup a new Temp Sensor since my replacement last week may also be faulty. Sorli...

Thanks for the advice and I take it rubber vacuum cap can be picked up anywhere? Thanks again, Sorli...

Sadly, no this does not always work. Seemed like a perfect option the first time, but suspect I just got lucky and my problems came back. I've also swapped the Computer with a unit from a 96 Legacy Wagon and that also did not help or fix my problem. I plan to try Presslab's suggestion if I can figure it out "Try this: disconnect the fuel tank vent line. It's located on the driver's side next to the two fuel lines going to the intake manifold. The vent line is the smaller of the three. Just leave the side from the body (the tank) free, and put some kind of cap on the metal tube from the manifold." and see how that works since I right now I'm out of options and waiting on my Fuel Pump Tester in the mail headed my way. What's even more interesting is the fact that many people have mentioned checking the EGR valve...which my Subaru Legacy Wagon doesn't seem to have or I simply can't find it. Actually, I looked for the EGR Valve at U-Pull-It and could not find it on that 1996 model either...so I guess it is possible for a Legacy not to have one or using some other option. Thanks everyone for the help!!! Sorli...

Yes the Temp Sensor does strike me as the first problem and what I'd try also. I've already replaced mine, but I'm guessing it is also possible to have two bad units Temperature Sensor wise and both causing my problems. Holding down the Accelerator was also tried and I believe forces the injectors to expel and purge fuel build-up. Pretty hard to get the injectors off to see how they are operating, but probably worth checking and I'll run through your suggestions and see what I get. Thanks, Sorli...

Yes and exact same problems I've been having for over a year. Sadly, nothing has fixed or addressed my issues yet. Located on my post on this forum 95 Legacy Wagon - Starting Problems...yikes I mentioned having similar problems and plenty of people have provide bunches of advice similar to naru above. Naru is probably on target with the fuel pressure issues and I have Fuel Pump Tester on order that I plan to use and check my Fuel Sender unit and if it is varying the amount of fuel pressure depending if the engine is hot or otherwise. I'll let you know what I find out from my 95 Legacy Wagon and hopefully find a resolution soon. I'm hoping it is as easy as a Fuel Pump Replacement, but I'll have to wait and do some testing since I'm tired of buying new parts just to check and see if it makes improvements. I may also try and snag the Fuel Pressure Regulator from U-Pull-It if it is still available since It may also be my problem and has never been replaced. Sadly, I just finished replacing the computer with a 1996 U-Pull-It that did not help. Also on my post, I mentioned replacing my temperature sensor and that also did not help. The more I look into my problem...the more I'm thinking there is a short in the main Subaru CTS connector that travels just below the Manifold. I'll end up having to pull the manifold and tubing and wires to verify this, but my problem only occurs when my motor gets hot and maybe happens when the wires begin to stretch sending the wrong signals to my injectors, vacuum, and otherwise. Not sure, but would love to hear from you if you resolve your problem and check my post linked above if you want to know what I've already looked at and replaced (what seems like everything). Thanks, Sorli...

Yes that is what I've been reading and kinda weird huh? Either way, my I initial test showed significant and was night and day results wise. I'll know more when clouds subside and we get some heat since it only happens when the cars temp rises and engine gets warm. Yesterday's test had my Legacy outside parked all day in the sun and pulling the gas cap made a huge difference. Couguers advice (gas tank relief valve may stuck) above maybe worth checking and as mentioned here and on another Subaru website referenced checking the Charcoal Filter and Small Return Line on the gas filter to see if it is blocked and flowing freely. Also as noted on Legacygt.com, "These later cars do not suffer from vapor lock. When the car is running, so is the fuel pump. Fuel is always circulating thru the system and back to the tank. Pressure is 34psi, and 60psi with the return line pinched. If not within these specs, you could have a faulty fuel regulator. Check all your vacuum lines and check the temp sensor with an ohmeter. Steven." May also be a good option to check. Thanks everyone for the help and more info soon. Sorli...

Would have never thunk...thanks! Sorli...

Heartless, Thanks for the reply and encouragement, I'll be 45 this year finishing my second degree in Engineering hopefully by same time next year. Either way, what exactly is Vapor Lock???? I just tried what you suggested below a few minutes ago including the following: Tried to start the car that is been sitting all day in the sun...no go on first start Popped the Gas Tank and Cap...releasing build-up and pressure Got back in the car...vehicle cranks back up instantly!!!! Bingo, I think you found it and would love to know more about Vapor Lock and why my Subaru isn't releasing this pressure automatically. I'll do some more testing in the next day or so and testing it when out and about and when it is hot outside. Thanks again!!! Sorli...

Yes actually those are good points and began to realize that later after sending my initial reply. The only hoses I pulled, were dealer specific parts that had the bends designed specifically for Legacy and fit in tight places going around corners. The more standard hoses can be replaced and relatively cheap and thankfully so. Good to hear someone else in school, though this is my second (maybe third) degree first in Sociology (pretty useless) and now in Engineering, which is what I do now for a living part-time. Either way, I'm hoping for some better weather this weekend so I can work a little on my car and see if I can make some headway on my issues. Never enough hours in the day. Sorli...

I guess it all comes down to perspective. What do you define as cheap? Last time I purchased a vacuum hose from our local Subaru dealer...it cost me $15...that is not cheap unless you can identify specifically what hose is causing your problems. Yes, I'm sure buying parts directly from Subaru would be a better options and guarantee what you are getting, but I'm still hunting and pecking to find my problems and keeping it less expensive it key right now. I'm a Full-time Engineering student surving thru the summer months (means very little income) and trying to get my Legacy back running before Fall 2013 cranks up in a few months. Went by U-Pull-It and snagged every hose (all factory in great shape...damaged and otherwise left behind) and sensor (including Temp Sensor, Knock Sensor), and few misc...like Idle Air Control Valve (since I had to remove it to get to the Temp Sensor) all combined for just under $35. Honestly, I have no clue if I even need the Air Control Valve (usuall goes for $80 bones used on Ebay), but if I am having vacuum problems it certainly makes since picking it up and getting it from U-Pull-It makes the decision even easier! Sorli...

Good to note and remember. Sadly, I'm left with using parts from U-Pull-It and am presently waiting for Tornado watch to pass over this weekend so I can snag some vacuum hoses and other parts that may be better then the ones I'm using. I find U-Pull-It parts like hoses pretty reliable as long as I get them before they sit in the sun too long and get dry rot. Sensors are also a flip of the coin, but for the price worth getting just in case and much less expensive then newer parts manufacturer or 3rd party parts. EIther way, thanks for the suggestions! Sorli...

Actually, originally I wasn't being specific, the part is cheap and worth swapping again if the replacement done years ago has also failed. Kinda hard to know, but I also found the service specs for that sensor that will allow me test and see how it is performing and if in operating range. Thanks, Sorli...

When you reference Temp Sensor are you referring to the Engine Coolent Temperature sensor that I've already replaced? Does the Subaru Legacy 95 have another Temp Sensor that I've missed. Either way, I plan to pickup a Fuel Pressure gauge from Harbor Freight and see who my fuel pressure levels are fluctuating and with Gas as crappy as it is now (10% Ethanol) changing out the Fuel Filter couldn't hurt. Thanks for the thread title update! Sorli...

Yes and what I'm beginning to think. No the Check Engine Light does not come on beside the initial keyed on and then goes off instantly like every other light. Fuel pump is running and you can hear it priming...still need to place a pressure gauge on the Fuel Line intake to see what they volume is when running normally and baselining, and when having problems and not starting. I've checked for vacuum leaks and misplaced PCV hoses, but I'll double check and good suggestion. Air Filter is clean...checked that and cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Hard for me to check vacuum levels and a good suggestions by you and others...so I'll check into it. Fuel filter could also be a problem and has been a while since I've checked it...pretty easy to find and check manually to see what comes out of the unit. I'll look into that since I did have the Fuel Pump replaced and maybe just maybe it is clogged and only effects things every so often. Thanks for the suggestions! Sorli...

Engine Temp Sensor may be a great option and I'll see if I can hunt that down and have it replaced. SeaFoamed it just the other day and it actually is running better...not sure if it freeing some Engine Bearings/Valves clogged with deposit or the Throttlebody for that matter. Yes the Crank and Cam Sensors were both replaced (easy to get too), but did not help. Vacuum leak and check cold/hot would be usefuly, but I'll have to have my mechanic do that since I don't have any tools to measure pressure and volume variations. Thanks for the suggestions, Sorli...

Thanks for the reply, and I was beginning to wonder if my questions were too complicated (just trying to cover the bases). No actually it starts just fine just intermittent when it gets hot and the sits a while. The starter turns over trying to crank, but won't start and the Never Fail button also helps sometime, it also doesn't always work. Wish there was a way to check the fuel pressure when things act up and the engine gets hot. I'll just have to add a fuel pressure gauge under the hood and check it manually to see if there are any fluctuations. Thanks again for the reply, Sorli...

Hello and sorry for the long message. I've been here for a while as a non-member reading other people's posts and following suggestions relating to my '95 Subaru Legacy Wagon (Automatic AWD). My Problems: Are very similar to other people having issues starting my car when hot or after being driven for long or short distance. Car works almost perfectly in the morning and at initial startup (no problems). Drive for 1 hour or so and then park to go inside to work with clients Finish up inside, then come back to leave and head home...car may start after 3 or 4 tries Car also dies after being driven for long distance locally in town or between communities in my areas. When this happens, I can usually pop the hood and wait having the car cool down for 30 or so mins to 1 hour and will crank right up allowing me to finish my drive home As I've mentioned, I've already implemented many changes and updates to my Legacy including many provided by Flatuous Blather suggestions (Thanks bunches) and other peoples suggestions, but still no go and my Legacy still runs intermittent. What seemed to help for a while and then same old same old includes: New Rebuilt Gas Pump (recently swapped 6/23 with used Outback pump with a larger motor) Fixed over two years ago when initial problems occurred...no go and did not help...multiple diagnostics by my mechanic (testing voltage levels, gas pressure, and misc...) New Power Steering Pump - leaking badly, but not directly related to my problems besides fluid getting into Spark Plug Holes and needing cleanup on motor and underneath New Battery, Cables, and Connectors also years ago and recently, but even when new did not fix my problems or improve condition New Spark Plugs and Cables and Coil Pack also replaced Almost every sensor (Coolant Temp, O2, and recently both Crank Position and Camshaft Positions sensors) has been pulled and replaced with new after-market and bone yard pulls (trying to keep costs down years ago) Many many bolts/nuts/connectors that were rusted or corroded (wow I know I live in Florida, but not that close to the beach) Starter replacement (years ago), pulled and bench tested working at Advanced Auto last year, and recent rebuild (finding corrosion on solenoid contacts) replacing with new contacts and plunger parts suggested and still no go at this state Added additional Grounding Cable from Battery to Starter and replaced Positive Battery Terminal to remove older unit and possible problems Starter Relay Addition (thanks for the help) - thought this worked well and only lasted a few hours before same problems...sometimes my car gets lucky. Quick Test and Never Fail button/switch (thanks again Flatuous and many others) - added to Starter Relay above and helps most of the time, but not perfect and only provides an additional option when Keyed on starting fails. Recent changes as of June 23, 2013, I swapped out from my 96 Legacy Outback U-Pull-It volunteer: Fuel Pump - much larger unit with short return line tubing into tank (no problems so far and much less noisy replacing my rebuilt unit swapped years ago) Cleaned/checked all Gas and Vacuum sender and return lines MAF Sensor and Idle Control Valve - swapped with used units that were cleaned and then reinstalled. Also noticed the MAF and ICV both working, but took a while for them to register and level out properly The ignitor - also used replacement...but so far so good! Other Notes: Legacy works and runs MUCH Much better in the winter time...Summers in Florida are miserable without A/C (thank God that is still working) What has not been replaced is the Ignition Switch and possible Neutral/Part Position Sensor, but if this was my problem...the Never Fail Button should resolve these issues Others have mentioned Clogged Catalytic Converters causing similar problems...but checking air pressure shows exhaust volumes as normal and similar to other vehicles Update - also forgot to mention on my previous post...NO Codes being reported...nothing, Nada, and suspect the 95 Legacy simply doesn't report very much Also of note, people have referenced if I tried spraying "small amount of starter fluid into the air intake" and I did this previously, but it only had minor effect, car would not start, and continue to run as normal. (referencing my igniter issues) My Legacy is running much better and I took it for a test drive 30 mins or so to warm things up and plan to wait a hour and test again when the problems usually occur with engine getting hot and then sitting for a hour or two. Update (possibly final update) - looks like one of the options above has finally solved my problem! I suspect my problem was finally either Fuel Pump or Ignitor related, but I'm not going to switch either now they are working just to test my theory. In the end, I went through a bunch of different suggestions, Fuel Sender issues, Clogged/Leaking Fuel/Vacuum Lines, Relays, Sensors, with the final changes listed above. As noted, I got he car hot this afternoon and let it sit as usual for one or two hours as when the issues usually occur. Car cranked and turned over starting without hesitation and on the first try, which never happened before after driving and then sitting for a couple of hours. I'll know more in the coming days when I drive and test things out on a full day of driving in town and will update if I notice anything. I'd also like to hear form everyone on what you think my final problems were??? Thank You and appreciate all the feedback and patience with my efforts and questions! Sorli...