CarpeNoctem
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Posts posted by CarpeNoctem
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draining isnt the problem it's containing it and cleaning the tank. that level of sludged is gonna take some doing to get clean.
:edit: local radiator shop does full tank cleanings for 100. just goint to do that.
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local scrapper charges 27.50 for a fuel tank. so if I can find one that is clean inside welding a patch on the hole will cost me about 30. that's 57 vs 178 for a new one or a bunch of time doing it myself............
another DIY
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that's what i'm worried about. It sat for years. Plus I haven't checked the other head yet but I can only imagine it's the same scenario but hasn't gotten to that level yet.
Unfortunately the scrap yards out here puncture the tanks to drain them. and my tank is FULL. I put $30 in so it's got half a tank of good fuel and half of who knows what. previous owner had to replace the fuel pump and injector (supposedly) but who knows if they drained the tank.
SO
clean heads
drain and clean tank
reassemble and test
fuel system cleaner every tank for a bit.
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and air cooled engines are finned to increase surface area and have rough surface to do the same because the more area exposed to air the more cooling. subaru engine castings are quite smooth by comparison.
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I am hoping that "hot tank" is your generic term for thorough cleaning, and not what is actually going to happen to it. Traditional hot tanking is ruinous to aluminum parts.
sorry it was late and I wasn't thinking. yea I got that stuck in my head and would have got laughed at when i got to the machine shop, so thanks for the konk on the head to jog my brain.
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update from a few minutes ago. that gum is built up in both intake tracks. I took the valves out and both exhaust removed easily #1intake took a tap to get started and pulled out the back. #3 intake had to be driven in until it the tip entered the guide after that i had to twist it to get it to pull free. Hot tank, valve grind, new guides, and stem seals should do the trick for that part.
But!!!! I do have cracks between both sets of valves. read the service bulletin. no worries there I guess.
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ok not much to see. Nothing in there to remove except goop behind the valve that would make molasses look thin. it was puddled at the bottom so I'm guessing fuel varnish and oil from pcv system. I don't see any sign of the valve seat moving or anything loose in the intake passage. all I can think at this point is
- a bent valve
- the valve is sticking in it's guide due to buildup
- oil passage blocked off
- aliens
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You very well could have been overheating. With the temp sensor being on the top of the engine in the intake, it would have been quick to run out of fluid. It's location has air flowing all around it, so with out the probe in fluid i can't see it having an accurate reading. The location of the sensor is pretty horrible, I personally would like seeing them in a coolant passage way on the block or head, it would be way more accurate for the engine temp.
you can buy sensor bungs that fit inline on a radiator hose. if you can get one with the right pitch for our sensors and a block off plug for the original hole from a hardware store you can cut two inches out of the hose, install the bung and just lengthen the wiring to reach it. Done it with other cars that had the same issue. with one the sensor was at the very top of the cooling system so we drilled the block plug we used to fill the old sensor hole and tapped it for a petcock. made bleeding the air out of the cooling system a snap (which had been a real pain with those cars) . you let it idle with the petcock open until the thermostat opened and it started streaming out full time (no more air gaps) and closed it.
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thats exactly whats happening. I think I read about something with the pcv coming apart and the valve innards falling in before quite possible. and it's within a second of startup so I bet its a seat or something inside.
has to come apart either way. if something has gotten in there I have to inspect that valve for damage.if it has any near it'll become a hot spot and cause it to burn the valve. one way or another I expect I'll be rebuilding this head.
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good to know. it'll come off tonight. I'll take pics and add them in case others have this issue later.
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Now that makes sense with what's happening!
Is it repairable (by a machine shop of course)? I'll pull it. but if it's typically non repairable I'd rather spend the cash on another head that for their inspection fee. Money is really tight until I get this car on the road and sell the cadillac ( which is the reason I bought the subie).
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Bump any other possibilities? going to pull it and take it to be hot tanked and etc otherwise. But i'd rather do things myself if its something I can do here
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reading the start of this a relay was my initial thought as well. just make sure that voltage doesn't go low enough that it cuts out completely. Most likely what you're seeing is voltage drop due to increased load put on the coil for higher rpms. putting the power through a relay can only be beneficial to this though. If battery voltage remains constant while coil voltage drops it's just load doing it. these aren't the newest wiring harnesses. test the relay system using a light to make sure it won't cut out if you have accessories on with it driving. if not temporarily wire the coil through it and recheck mpg results. If things improve finish of the wiring job to make it permanent.
other option is to do an spfi swap. but that is a lot more work
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I was thinking of doing this using it accessory mounted (like an alt or ac) but this would be for a TBI unit. plumbed through and intercooler afterward. because they are meant for a magnetic clutch just get a v belt clutch and start fabbing the inlet and outlet manifolds and you can even time it by using a small amount of circuitry tied into the tps. I would likely run a non clutched pulley though. Remember these do need their own oil and it has to be changed regularly.
sc12 superchargers in america can be found in mr2 toyotas. but their is a better source for the bigger SC14. toyota previa minivans (will say supercharged on back). typically less minivans get scavenged at yards while mr2 units go fast. go for the bigger higher displacement version that still allows you to run smaller pulleys for an even bigger level of boost. any good machining shop (not the auto version a real manufacturing one) can make you custom pullies if you bring an example and give he dimensions you need. helps for spacing one out if needed for belt alignment
my $0.02
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ok so I finally got time to install the new lifters/HLAs and on start up the follower on the same valve (intake #3 cyl) comes loose again it's the same every time. I'm starting to guess I have a blocked oil passage in there. there is no visible damage to follower/s I swapped it out this time to see if things changed. So either I have a valve spring that is bouncing like crazy (no visible damage) or the lifter isn't getting oil and is being allowed to collapse far enough to allow the lifter cup to come loose.
Any thoughts before I pull the head?
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Yep if you run a wire from the positive battery terminal to that wire (engine off or on it doesnt matter) you should hear a click as it engages) if not, the clutch is bad.
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Ah ok. Well ecerything is ordered. All 8 lifters VC gaskets W/grommets & the cam and crank seals (if it's coming off a second time i may aswell). Waterpump is being done as well.
After i finally have this motor right it'll be on to A/C R134a retrofit with new compressor (134 is harder on compressors and I want it right first time)
then audio (dead deck)
Then tint (vegas heat is killer)
Then suspension
I'm also working on steel wheel manufacturer to make some in our pattern. If it becomes a group buy situation i'll post it. Hoping for some D-window beadlocks in 15" -
thanks.
Anyone know a vendor for the valves in the cam towers? I'd like to replace them while I'm doing the rest.
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It's coming off the forward most valve of cyl 3. is this intake or exhaust?
Also what is the proper name of the "oil relief valve"? I'm guessing this is the spring loaded valve that is behind that tube that is there to drip oil onto the cam right?
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Photo's and problem. The follower dropped again. Looks like I need a source for lifters cheap. Sorry pics took so long. I had family problems that couldn't be avoided.
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Just got home. to late to do any work (niece's birthday party
)their just slip in? Awesome. I'll likely have it apart again tomorrow then
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Replacing the fallen follower*
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Resealed that side after using tje grease technique to replace the fallen lifter i found after buying the car. I can only guess they have fallen again. Ill know tonight for sure. Anyone done the lifters while head is on car before?
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Nevermind ill just stay out of this
ea82 cam tower oil seal question.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Ditto that! local dealer had no clue what I was on about