duffymaddox

It is automatic where do i remove grey wire on trans or under dash

It looks like lt broke at the cv joint , I only looked with wheel on and where my hub is I can see the cage that holds the bearings and that is what is bouncing up and down in hub .

I have a broken front passenger side CV/axle it snapped at the hub and is rattling around. my new axle is going to take 3 days to ship.If I removed the bad axle from transfer case can I still drive the car locally (will not exceed 30mph) since it is AWD I figured I would be on 3 good axles. 95 legacy. Or would I be creating more damage by doing so. Unfortunately I live in a area where I need a car to go to supermarket. and this is my only car.

Can I pull the bad axle off and still be able to drive the car until my part comes in only going local and not driving more than 30mph

Back in December of this year while replacing my brakes I noticed my cv boot on passenger side was torn and lost grease about a week later my car was shaking at high speed so I knew I hade to replace the axle. Between the cold weather and the fact I had to go away for 2 months for work I was not able to fix the problem. Well as I was away my wife drove my car AWD is better in the snow. she said it was starting to make a crackleing noise when she turned left drivers side. But before I could tell her to stop driving the car somthing poped and the car was not able to stay still in park. Since I was not home to fix the problem. she took it to her dads friend who is a very good mechanic he told her the axle was broke. With limited funds at the time he only replaced the drivers side cv axle. I did not know this becase my wife as a typical woman did not ask what work he did. She also told me that the dar still shook at high speeds. I figured it was alighnment since I was not there to see that the passenger sibe axle was not replaced. Well i came home today aafter 2 months and she proceeded to tell me that the car is now making the crackleing sound when you turn right, so i took it for a ride and pop as i went to straighten the wheel after a right turn my right cv axle snaped now the car will not stay put in park again. my question is when the left side was replaced the car stayed put in park now that the right side is broke should'nt the car still remain in place in park or do I have a bigger issue than just a bad axle. or do I have to replace both axles again. I am confused.....

Was wondering if anyone could offer any advice. My 1995 Legacy has been making a clicking noise while turning left. Yesterday, when I put the car into park, my car started to drift. Now it will only stay completely in park with the parking break. If it is just in park, it drifts fwd and backwards, depending on the incline. Someone told me that it may be a parking pawl that could have snapped. Now when driving it, the clicking noise is constant. Has anyone had this issue? Anyone have any advice for me? And if it is the parking pawl, does the whole transmission need repalced, or could just the part be installed.

This all started when I did the sea-foam treatment . Is it possible that the sea-foam got to the sensor and blew it up or was the sensor bad from the start and the treatment just brought it to light. Also while running the test yesterday I left the ignition on for about 2 hours and drained the battery. So I had to put it on charge and go find other projects around the house to do . As I said before I scavenged the whole unit (sensor, solenoid, and resistor.) from a 96 or 7 OBW so I changed out the parts. The solenoid had a filter on it where the line to the sensor should be I removed the filter and put the bottom line there. I hope that was OK. Anyway I am going to continue to test the old sensor because I got to know if it really bad. As far as the ground being the issue I tested it by accident on the first day when I was checking for line voltage . thank you guys for all your help and I will let you know latter today if that sensor or solenoid was the issue or if there is anything else. I got to take a 100 mile round trip today to visit in-laws. So if there is still a problem then I am sure I will receive a pretty CEL for my grand prize..........

This has me going nuts I cant figure it out in test mode the solenoid works good and I have all my readings in range (ohms) but I just got about 4.7 volts at idle and no change at atmosphere the meter did not budge. do I have a bad sensor or do I have a bad solenoid or is there a freaking clogged vacuum line somewhere. I am lost .

I have a buddy who put a 327 Chevy into a 1969 Beetle had to put engine at a angle and build a custom driveshaft. But this car is one of the fastest vehicles around . Seen him destroy a corvette and a 5.0 mustang. crazy

I will give it a go tomorrow its dark here in Pittsburgh plus a little lighting and rain. I will go in 1st thing in the am I will let you know the results thank you very much. Like I said before I am new to Subaru's but I have always loved them. I have built 2 muscle cars with my cousin 68 Pontiac GTO judge 400 cu and a 1970 dodge Coronet Super Bee 440 magnum Hemi. This my first Japanese car and I want to get it running right so that I can eventually do some modifications and make it a sleeper......

I put in test mode and the solenoid seemed to work I am changing out all the lines to and from the MAP.(I forgot to mention that I already changed the vac lines when I did the EGR.) Why do they have two of the same solenoids one for MAP and one for purge control? Well if this is not the issue then I dont know where to look next.

Once again I am back here asking for help. I give you a bit of history about my car. 1995 Subaru Legacy 2.2 ej22 with 145000 miles I got it for free from my sister a year ago . Right after I got it I had to replace a MAF sensor and rerun all new brake lines. a new battery. and its been great until about 4 months ago I got a 0400 egr cel . Being that I am a noobie with no Subaru experience I was lost . But since I consider myself a self sufficient individual I refused to bow down so I got a Haynes and Chilton manual , a OBD2 reader and with the help of you guys I learnes alot about my ej22 and Subaru. So here gos on the 4th of july my alternator died on me so I was able to get one from a buddies j-yard there was a soob there that had met it maker thanks to a semi-truck (driver side was no more) I was able to gather a lot of parts from the vehicle including a EGR ,BPT, IAC, PCV stem,and all the MAP stuff. As I said it been running with a 0400 for a while so I figured that now was the time to fix it with the help of the forum I changed the EGR and BPT I noticed the the vacuum lines and components were pretty fouled with carbon so I decided to do a sea foam treatment, 1/3 in oil 1/3 in gas 1/3 into manifold. drove about 50 miles and then changed the oil. now I have a 0106 cel I tried to search for the answer but I am lost. I did the troubleshooting the Haynes manual recommended .I got 4.8 volts on the ref line and when I check the solenoid I got 39 ohms well within range. But when I backed probed the signal line I got 4.5 volts on idle but when I open up the throttle the voltage did not go down as it should and when i took the vacuum line of the solenoid i got vacuum coming in but nothing going out. I would have changed the solenoid with the one I got from the yard but they are different.(My solenoid has 2 lines on it and the yard one has 1 line and a filter) Can I remove the filter and use it anyway. I just need to know how to go about tracing the problem.

I sucked the bottom of the BPT and it was good but I also tried to blow through the 2 lines going to the throttle body and the one seems clogged they are the 2 lines that have the throttle cable assembly all in one unit the one will not blow and the other blows but real hard should i take that apart and clean it ...

I would get it hooked up to a reader to see the CEL it could also be the MAF sensor has a short that would definitely cause a stall let us know what code set off the CEL

I got the leggo as a gift from my sister a year ago since then I had to replace the MAF sensor in the process of finding that problem I looked and tested everything i had every vacuum line off cleaned the pcv valve IAC unit and throttle body. I also changed the plugs to bosch platinum which I now know is not good. I had to replace a bad brake line. And just 2 weeks ago I had to put on a new harmonic balancer (Pulley) and I had the timing belt on wrong for a day which I think caused the knock which screwed up the sensor.. the CEL has been there for a while probably a 6 months..