Uber Subaruber

Hello All! 2002 OBW Limited 5sp 4cyl. I need to replace the clutch sooner rather than later. I am mechanically inclined, but not a mechanic. My brother is more mechanic-like, having resurrected an old BMW and maintaining his own motorcycles. My question is this: Having never done a clutch on a Subaru, but having done them on other cars, is it possible to do this in less than 12 hours, including breaks for meals? What pitfalls should I look for? What "extra" parts should I buy beforehand, as just-in-case parts if/when something breaks (bolts, bushings, etc.)? What clutch kit should I buy? Should I go with OEM or would something from AutoZone work just as well? I do a lot of city driving, so should I get something a little more durable, like a sports clutch? I need to do this, need to do it right, and need to get it done in a day. At this point, I do not have a lift, but I can start asking around- I might know someone who knows someone...I do not want to be pulling the motor or anything too involved- the simpler the better. Any links to a step-by-step guide to doing this job would be helpful, although I fully intend to get a Haynes manual, if for reference only. Thanks in advance. If I get nothing but links as replies, that is cool. But I spent almost an hour searching for threads here and the closest thing I got to a step-by-step for a clutch replacement in an Impreza. If I need to order a specific clutch, the sooner I know the better - I hope to do this on Sunday, so need time to get it shipped to me if need be.

Thanks for the advice. I did call the dealer that did some work on it. The head gasket and t-belt were replaced at 66K, so I will need it again sometime in the next 5 years. I am not all that worried about the car, but I need it every day for my job, and don't have a second car to drive should it break down and need major work. And of course cars never break down when it is convenient, especially financially. But a friend told me, "Take the money you would be paying them every month and save it. Then you will have enough to fix it whenever it breaks". Sure, there is some peace of mind in knowing it is there if I need it. But as I use forums and message boards more, I am sure I will find a friendly fellow owner more than willing to help out in a bind. There is always one shade-tree mechanic that does great work cheap. And I don't need to worry about voiding my warranty. Thanks again, every one, for your opinions. I think I might take a pass on this contract. It only makes sense if I use it, and like it has been said, if you properly maintain the car the way the warranty company requires, it won't break down often enough (or catastrophically enough) to justify the cost of the plan. Good stuff.

I am guessing that even though the schedule you linked to only goes out to 10 years and 120K, the intervals for service remain the same (3,000 for oil, 30,000 for coolant, etc.) Common sense, right? I have a service contract that is contingent on making sure routine maintenance is performed. It won't cover repairs if I don't perform routine stuff on schedule. Kind of a bummer I can't do my own oil changes.

I would normally would do much of my own work, within reason, like fluid changes, brakes, exhaust, but nothing too major - I don't have the time, skill, or facilities to do such things. I wouldn't go to a dealership to do these things, but to an approved repair shop, such as Firestone, and they normally will let you know when you are due for service. The warranty I am looking at does cover heads, engine block, etc. Also, as it was described to me over the phone, if the cost of a needed repair exceeds the value of the car, they have the option of "totaling" the car and buying it from me. I also believe they stated that if the cost to repair an engine is greater than the cost to replace it, they will replace the engine, unless the failure is caused by a non-covered part, such as a head gasket. Here is what is covered: ENGINE: a) The following lubricated internal parts: pistons, pins & rings, connecting rods & bearings; crankshaft & main bearings; camshaft, followers & cam bearings; push rods, valves, springs, replaceable guides, seats & lifters; rocker arms, shafts & bushings; timing gear, chain, tensioners & retainers; eccentric shaft; and oil pump. Timing belt; serpentine belt; water pump: Impeller shaft, bearings, bushings & housing; intake & exhaust manifolds; engine mounts & cushions; engine torque strut; harmonic balancer; flywheel (flexplate) & flywheel ring gear; mechanical fuel pump; dipstick & tube; and all pulleys. c) All lubricated internal parts of the Vehicle manufacturer-installed turbocharger or supercharger. The housing is covered ONLY if damaged by the Failure of a lubricated internal part. c) Engine head(s); engine block; cylinder barrels; timing cover; valve cover(s); oil pan; dipstick & tube, ONLY if damaged by the Failure of a lubricated internal part. (If Diesel Engine, Turbo, or Supercharger has not been stated on the Administrator copy of the Application Page, along with the corresponding surcharge being received by Administrator, NO Coverage will apply for these components/parts under this Contract.) TRANSMISSION: a) All lubricated internal parts contained within the case(s). Computer modules & solenoids; filler tube & dipstick; vacuum modulator; and internal linkage. c) Transmission case, transfer case & torque converter case, ONLY if damaged by the Failure of a lubricated internal part. TRANSFER CASE: Transfer case and all internally lubricated parts. (If 4WD/AWD has not been stated on the Administrator copy of the Application Page, along with the corresponding surcharge being received by Administrator, NO transfer case Coverage will apply under this Contract.) DRIVE AXLE(S): a) All lubricated internal parts contained within the housing(s). Axle shafts; constant velocity joints; universal joints; drive shafts; locking hubs; locking rings; and supports, retainer & bearings. c) Differential housing, transaxle housing & final drive housing, ONLY if damaged by the Failure of a lubricated internal part. AIR CONDITIONING AND HEATING: Accumulator; condenser; condenser fan; condenser fan motor; compressor; compressor clutch, dryer, evaporator and expansion valve. ELECTRICAL: Alternator / generator; air conditioner blower motor; starter motor; starter solenoid and starter drive; horns; windshield wiper motors; windshield washer pump. LUXURY ELECTRICAL: Power window motors; window regulators; power door lock actuators; power trunk release; power antenna motor; and all manually operated switches. COOLING SYSTEM: Cooling fan; cooling fan motor; and fan clutch. FUEL SYSTEM: Fuel delivery pump; fuel injection pump; metal fuel lines; fuel pressure regulator; fuel sending unit; and fuel gauge. SEALS AND GASKETS: Seals and gaskets related to the covered parts listed above are covered, but only when required as a part of the authorized repair or replacement of those covered parts. Leaking and/or failed seals and gaskets by themselves are not covered parts. What is NOT covered: Parts not listed are not covered. This Vehicle Service Contract Provides NO Coverage or Benefits for the following: A. FAILURE OF A COVERED COMPONENT OCCURRING WITHIN THE FIRST NINETY (90) DAYS AND 1,000 MILES AFTER THE START DATE WILL NOT BE COVERED. B. OIL CONSUMPTION, WORN OUT PARTS, (This part scares me - isn't a part getting "worn out" what causes it to fail?) AND DIMINISHED PERFORMANCE INCLUDING THAT RESULTING FROM A GRADUAL REDUCTION IN OPERATING PERFORMANCE DUE TO NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR SUCH AS TO GUIDES, VALVES, RINGS, AND TRANSMISSION CLUTCH PACK, DISCS AND BANDS IS NOT COVERED. C. DIESEL ENGINES MANUFACTURED PRIOR TO 1990, ROTARY ENGINES, 4100 GM ENGINES OR ENGINES USED IN COMMERCIAL VEHICLES ARE EXCLUDED. D. THE FOLLOWING PARTS: CARBURETOR; BATTERY; BATTERY/BATTERY PACK ON HYBRID/ELECTRIC VEHICLES; SHOCK ABSORBERS; MANUAL TRANSMISSION CLUTCH ASSEMBLY; FRICTION CLUTCH DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE; THROWOUT BEARING; MANUAL AND HYDRAULIC LINKAGES; DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR; SAFETY RESTRAINT SYSTEMS (INCLUDING AIR BAGS); GLASS; LENSES; SEALED BEAMS; LIGHT BULBS; BRAKE HARDWARE; ALL EXHAUST AND EMISSION COMPONENTS EXCEPT THOSE SPECIFICALLY LISTED UNDER THE COVERAGE SECTION OF THIS CONTRACT; WEATHER STRIPS; ALL TRIM, MOLDINGS, HANDLES, KNOBS OR DIALS; BRIGHT METAL; CHROME; UPHOLSTERY AND CARPET; PAINT; OUTSIDE ORNAMENTATION; BUMPERS; BODY SHEET METAL AND PANELS; TIRES AND WHEELS/RIMS; GPS NAVIGATION SYSTEMS; PHONE SYSTEMS; TV/VIDEO/ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS AND INTERNET ACCESS SYSTEMS. E. MAINTENANCE SERVICES AND PARTS DESCRIBED IN YOUR VEHICLE’S OWNER’S MANUAL AS SUPPLIED BY THE MANUFACTURER AND OTHER NORMAL MAINTENANCE SERVICES AND PARTS INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO: ALIGNMENTS; WHEEL BALANCING; TUNEUPS; SPARK PLUGS AND SPARK PLUG WIRES; GLOW PLUGS; HOSES; DRIVE BELTS; BRAKE PADS, LININGS, SHOES, DRUMS AND ROTORS; WIPER BLADES. F. SHOP SUPPLY CHARGES; EPA DISPOSAL FEES; SPECIAL ORDER PARTS SHIPPING COST; PARTS LOCATOR RESEARCH FEE; STORAGE FEES; FILTERS, LUBRICANTS, COOLANTS, FLUIDS AND REFRIGERANTS EXCEPT WHEN REPLACEMENT IS REQUIRED DUE TO A COVERED FAILURE. G. ANY COMPONENT NOT COVERED BY THE VEHICLE MANUFACTURER FOR THE FULL TERM OF THE VEHICLE WARRANTY IS EXCLUDED. H. ANY DAMAGE RESULTING FROM OVERHEATING. I. ANY FAILURE RESULTING FROM COLLISION; INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL FIRE; THEFT; VANDALISM; RIOT; EXPLOSION; LIGHTNING; EARTHQUAKE; FREEZING; RUST OR CORROSION; WINDSTORM; HAIL; WATER OR FLOOD; ACTS OF GOD; ACTS OF WAR; ACTS OF TERRORISM; SALT; ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE; CONTAMINATION OR LOSS OF FLUIDS, FUELS, COOLANTS OR LUBRICANTS; ABUSE; NEGLIGENCE; LACK OF NORMAL MAINTENANCE REQUIRED BY THE MANUFACTURER’S MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR YOUR VEHICLE; IMPROPER SERVICING AFTER THE EFFECTIVE DATE OF THIS CONTRACT; SLUDGE BUILD-UP OR FAILURE TO MAINTAIN PROPER LEVELS OF LUBRICANTS AND/OR COOLANTS; NOT PROTECTING THE VEHICLE FROM FURTHER DAMAGE WHEN A FAILURE HAS OCCURRED. J. ANY REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT OF A COVERED PART IF NO FAILURE HAS OCCURRED REGARDLESS OF REPAIR FACILITY RECOMMENDATIONS; OR IF THE WEAR ON THAT PART HAS NOT EXCEEDED THE FIELD TOLERANCES PERMITTED BY THE MANUFACTURER; ANY REPAIR NOT SPECIFICALLY AUTHORIZED BY US. K. IF ANY ALTERATIONS HAVE BEEN MADE TO YOUR VEHICLE OR YOU ARE USING, OR HAVE USED, YOUR VEHICLE IN A MANNER NOT RECOMMENDED BY THE MANUFACTURER. THIS WILL INCLUDE, BUT NOT BE LIMITED TO: THE FAILURE OF ANY CUSTOM OR ADD-ON/AFTERMARKET PART REGARDLESS IF SUPPLIED BY A FRANCHISED DEALER OR NOT; ANY FRAME OR SUSPENSION MODIFICATIONS; LIFT KITS; OVERSIZED/UNDERSIZED TIRES OR WHEELS; TRAILER HITCHES; UNAUTHORIZED MODIFICATIONS TO ANY SYSTEM L. IF YOUR ODOMETER HAS CEASED TO WORK AND REPAIRS HAVE NT BEEN IMMEDIATELY MADE; THE ODOMETER HAS BEEN ALTERED IN ANYWAY SUBSEQUENT TO PURCHASE; OR IF VEHICLE’S TRUE MILEAGE CANOT BE DETERMINED. M. ANY LIABILITY FOR PROPERTY DAMAGE, OR FOR INJURY TO OR DEATH OF ANY PERSONS ARISING OUT OF THE OPERATION, MAINTENANCE OR USE OF YOUR VEHICLE, WHETHER OR NOT RELATED TO THE PARTS COVERED. LOSS OF TIME, PROFIT, INCONVENIENCE, OR ANY OTHER LOSS THAT RESULTS FROM A FAILURE (EXCEPT AS PROVIDED UNDER THE BENEFITS OR COVERAGES HEREIN.) N. REPAIRS TO SEIZED OR DAMAGED ENGINES DUE TO CONTINUED OPERATION REGARDLESS OF CAUSE OR WITHOUT SUFFICIENT LUBRICANTS OR COOLANT. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR MAKING CERTAIN THAT THE OIL AND TEMPERATURE WARNING LIGHTS/GAUGES ARE FUNCTIONING PROPERLY. YOU MUST PULL OFF THE ROAD IMMEDIATELY AND DISCONTINUE VEHICLE OPERATION WHEN EITHER OF THESE LIGHTS/GAUGES INDICATES INADEQUATE PROTECTION OR PERFORMANCE OR WHEN OVERHEATING OCCURS. O. SALVAGED TITLE VEHICLES; WHEN RESPONSIBILITY FOR A REPAIR IS COVERED BY AN INSURANCE POLICY; WARRANTY FROM THE MANUFACTURER INCLUDING EXTENDED DRIVE TRAIN, MAJOR COMPONENT OR FULL COVERAGE WARRANTIES; A REPAIRER’S GUARANTEE/WARRANTY; OR FAILURES FOR WHICH THE MANUFACTURER HAS ANNOUNCED ITS RESPONSIBILITY THROUGH ANY MEANS, INCLUDING RECALL CAMPAIGNS AND FACTORY SERVICE BULLETINS. P. IF YOUR VEHICLE IS USED FOR TOWING A TRAILER OR OTHER OBJECT OR VEHICLE WITHOUT BEING EQUIPPED WITH A FACTORY INSTALLED OR AUTHORIZED TOW PACKAGE; OR IS USED FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, RENTAL, TAXI, LIMOUSINE, LIVERY OR SHUTTLE, TOWING OR ROAD REPAIR, CONSTRUCTION, FARMING OR AGRICULTURAL PURPOSES, JOB SITE ACTIVITIES, HAULING, POLICE OR EMERGENCY SERVICES, PRINCIPAL OFF ROAD USE, RACING, COMPETITIVE DRIVING, SNOW REMOVAL, ROUTE-WORK, SERVICE OR REPAIR UNLESS COMMERCIAL USE OPTION HAS BEEN PURCHASED AND ACCEPTED BY US. Q. ANY FAILURE OCCURRING PRIOR TO THE CONTRACT PURCHASE DATE, OR IF INFORMATION PROVIDED BY YOU OR A REPAIR FACILITY CANNOT BE VERIFIED AS ACCURATE OR IS FOUND TO BE DECEPTIVELY INACCURATE. R. ANY FAILURE OCCURRING OUTSIDE OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA OR CANADA. S. DAMAGE CAUSED BY PRE-IGNITION DETONATION, PINGING, IMPROPER/CONTAMINATED FUEL OR IMPROP

Thanks for all the feedback. It seems I have some investigating to do. As far as rust goes, some tiny spots from rock chips, and one 2x1 spot bubbling on the right rear quarter. That is it. Underside didn't look too bad, but haven't had it on a lift yet. Overall, it is in really good shape. I hope it wasn't just someone dumping it, whether the dealer or the PO. CarFax did say it was a one-owner trade, but I didn't see anything about the t-belt. That extended service plan I got may pay for itself right from the get-go. Is that a "recommended" service at a certain mileage?

My third Subaru. Well, technically my 4th, but I discovered a blown head gasket on the third, on the way home from the stealership that sold it to me.

The guy who cleared the code was an idiot, yet he was in charge of evaluating incoming trades. When I told him the clutch was slipping, he said that due to a bum left leg, he may not have had the pedal pushed in all the way when he drove it, even though ANYONE who has driven a manual knows you release the pedal to engage the clutch. If he doesn't know how a clutch works, how can he evaluate a car?!?! Or tell me what the CEL might have been? I didn't feel bad at all when they gave me more for my trade because of the clutch, which actually barely slips at all. Then they said they wouldn't replace the clutch because it was a Jeep dealer and they only wanted their guys working on Jeeps, since that is "what they know". Yet they changed the serpentine belt before putting it on the lot, according to CarFax. To top it all off, he didn't really even put a value on my trade-in (1997 Accord coupe w/158K). He asked the finance guy what I "needed" to get approved for financing and gave me that price, which was $500. Blue Book on the Honda was $1100 in fair condition, with the A/C deleted, since it didn't work. Beyond that, the car was clean (zero rust, in MN) and ran well. There is a reason they call them "stealerships." Thanks for the feedback. I am sure I will 100 more questions, at least until I discover and fix any bugs in my new car.

Good day, everyone! I am looking at an extended warranty from a company called Endurance. It covers most mechanical components, but excludes things like brakes, oil changes, alignments, clutch, tires, exhaust etc. It is 5 years, 100,000 miles. 5-year total accumulated benefits are $3300 for engine repairs (including timing belt, but excluding head gasket), $2200 tranny, $1500 differential, $2000 A/C and heating, $1200 in electrical and Luxury electrical (power windows, locks, seats, etc.), $1000 cooling system, $1000 fuel system, and $300 roadside assistance. Total cost of coverage is almost $2800 for the 5 years, paid in 18 monthly installments. The coverage is transferable to a new owner should I sell the car. Besides paying for it, all I have to do is maintain the vehicle according to manufacturer specifications, you know, change the oil and stuff. Has anyone purchased something like this, or even better, has anyone used Endurance before? Part of me thinks it is a great deal for peace of mind, and part of me thinks I am going to get screwed by a technicality any time I try to file a claim. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks Kurt

Hello all, I am on my third Subaru. I had two others ('85 or '86 GL Wagon and '91 Loyale) which were essentially cheap 4x4 beater I drove into the ground with over 280K on each. The '85 was still running strong when she went to the boneyard- everything else was falling off! I have had my 2002 OBW Limited 5sp for all of two weeks now. Bought it with 137K. I knew it might have some small issues being higher mileage and not knowing its service history 100%. (I did get a clean Carfax that showed some service history at the Subaru dealership) Clutch slips when I give it the beans at say 3-3500rpm, but that is partly why I got it at almost $2K less than Blue Book. In everyday "calm" driving, it works fine. Now that I am used to it, I can drive it without it bucking all over the place. Here are some other issues, in no particular order: It seems to sometimes accelerate not-so-smoothly, and when engine-braking, it bucks/jerks a little bit from time to time. The dealer I bought it from replaced the serpentine belt (not the timing belt ), so I wonder if something isn't just a little bit off, timing-wise. A tune up and timing check might solve that problem. CEL was on when I test drove it. The dealer cleared and said it must have been some emissions thing. It has come on twice since then, but has gone off shortly after, once within a day or two, the second time within 3-4 hours. Any ideas? I has been HOT in Minnesota, and the A/C may have been in use on both occasions. No crazy driving (no high revs/Italian tune-up), the engine temp has been good. The last time it happened I was braking, the engine bogged down like I was braking without depressing the clutch (rpm went way down, almost killing the motor) and the light went on. Gas level was OK, so it wasn't a starvation issue, unless the fuel pump is going out. Burning rubber smell from vents at start up. I am thinking the previous serp belt was fried and this is just residual smell, as it seems to have stopped, and when I had the car running and sniffed around under the hood, I didn't smell any burning rubber. OUT TEMP display not changing: This just started today. It was cool this morning but warmed up to mid-70's. Display said 59-degrees all afternoon, until I drove on the freeway, where it sllowwwwly got up to 66 by the time I got home. The actual temp was 77. It has been pretty accurate up until now, quickly changing to the correct temp when driving from warm underground parking ramps into the cool morning air, dropping 10 degrees in a matter of minutes. Clunking on deceleration: When completely lifting off the gas while driving, with the clutch engaged, it kind of "clunks". This might be the worn clutch, the timing a bit off, or it is just the way AWD Subarus are. I vaguely remember my other Subes doing this, but not sure. Should there be something else to look into, such as motor/tranny mounts, differential, axles? Squeaking in rear corner: This is most likely a shock or spring issue, and it seems more pronounced when I have a passenger or two in the back. The car handles fine though, so I am not too concerned. Burned CDs skip over bumps sometimes, but not regular CDs, so it is the medium, not the car. Rear defrost not working: Just noticed this this morning and haven't had a chance to look into it. If not a fuse, what might it be? The light on the switch goes on, but I know that doesn't mean jack. Any other things I should be looking out for? This is the first "nice" car I have had in quite a few years and want to get the most out of it. I expect I will use this forum quite a bit during my ownership. But as I said, my previous two Subarus were older, basic transportation I didn't want to sink money into. I got my $5-600 out of them and moved on. This Outback is all "new" and "modern" and full of nuances I didn't need to worry about so much on my other cars. I am purchasing an extended service program for peace of mind, and will put up another post looking for opinions on that. Thank you all for any advice/feedback you can give, and I am happy to be a part of your community! Kurt

Hello Everyone! I recently purchased my 3rd Subaru, a 2002 Outback Limited 5spd. Previous Subes were a 1985(?) GL Wagon and a 1991 Loyale Wagon. Both had 285K+ before they met their maker. The '85was still running like a champ when it went to the bone yard. Rusted out, clutch seized, windows off track...if I had had the funds to repair it I would have, but got a Toyota PU for free, so I went with it. '91 had the timing belt go out. Again, if I could have afforded to fix it, I would have. Both were awesome cars. In a perfect world, I would like to lift the new car, but concerned about voiding the aftermarket warranty I bought (5yrs, 100K miles). They require scheduled maintenance and all of that stuff, so I am guessing they might frown on a 4" lift if I was to submit a claim for suspension parts. Is there a link that describes the factory model designations anywhere? I see EA81, EJ22 - I know years and names (G10, Loyale, Legacy), but I know nothing of factory designations. What is my 2002 Outback? I may have owned a couple few Subarus, but I have not been indoctrinated into the "inner circle". I hope that will change.