plastickmat

I know this has been a while but I'm about to cut and do something similar to this on this picture I see that there's an opening where the pump is but you also opened up under the rear seat to have access to what? The top of the tank? I want to access my vent valve which one would it be on this picture... Car was working fine until I left it unused for 3 months, it started doing the "I can't jug gas at normal speed anymore I'm too old for that" thing. I went under disconnected all hoses from canister blew air in a lot of them I even had to replace some of them as some of the metal ones broke. With everything disconnected I was thinking if it had to do with the canister or the electronic valves it would have vented straight out but it still did it so I'm guessing either the piping TO The vent valve is jammed OR the vent valve is stuck. Theres also a little "DEVICE" I don't know its name on the passenger's side close to the outrigger plate that has metal pipes going to it, anyone know what that is? A hose on that thing is also broken... haven't had a problem in 6 months but still curious to what its for! Thanks

So do I really need to rip the dash out ? I have trouble understanding what happens to my stock fusebox, stock OBD port and etc.? What about the connections for the current engine on the passenger's side? DO they get cut out? Can I just splice into all the current igntion wires and what not and just unplug the stock ECU and it works? THanks

Would like more detail on that!!

I don't have the wiring harness diagrams yet, and sort of apprehend the wiring as I have no idea where to start... For the pulleys you are giving me the choice of changing JUST the bearing OR Pulley with bearing or are you saying I should change both individually sorry if this is confusing? Thanks

Hey guys have a really good deal (400$) for an EZ30 (D I believe its from a 2001 Outback) and would like to swap it into my forester, I'm quite knowledgeable of my forester's wiring as i've had to swap my 2.5 last year and also had transmission issues and cruise control issues that had me looking all over the place to solve so I'm confortable with how the car works Any tips? How hard is it to rewire the EZ30 to my car? Any solid members here have some info they could lend me a hand with? Do I need to upgrade my fuel pump or can my stock EJ25 pump do the trick? I know the engine is s'posed to bolt onto my EJ 5 speed transmission correctly so I am not worried about that part. Are these engines known to fail on specific areas I could assess before dropping her in? Thanks a lot fellers!

Fixed the whole deal for the curious enthousiasts, part of the circuit inside the actuator on the PCB was corroded to the point there was no continuity between the connector and 3 of the solenoid's soldered points.. I extended the weld to a spot on the PCB where the copper route was still continuous, the cruise is functioning and am very happy with this 0$ fix. Thanks for all your help.

I triple checked what you are talking about and the model on the Forester doesn't have a PUMP a per say, the engine's vaccuum is sufficient for operation as it uses the big round vacuum ring with a spring I opened up my actuator and am looking at the circuit as the windings look good but there seems to be no contact on the connector side, lots of rust on the PCB!

Wow thats something I didn't know I thought the engine's vaccuum made it work directly, but shouldn't I still get resistance off the connector??? What does this pump look like ? Wouldnt I see a hose coming off of it heading to the actuator?

I did some further research tonight followed the wires from the NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH on the transmission the connector is under hood beneath the air box also right near the REVERSE POSITION SWITCH both these switches work perfectly as I get variation of continuity in GEAR and not. I followed those wires on the wiring diagram they also pass by the ECU and the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH on the clutch pedal the BLACK/RED wire has continuity everywhere... The GREENBLACK on the clutch safety switch and on the Neutral Pos. Switch also has continuity everywhere... THE CONNECTOR that plugs to THE ACTUATOR has continuity to the connector on the cruise control module on all 4 pins. All the wiring all the independant parts of the cruise control are fuctioning and functional. I came accross a TEST on EHOW for the FORESTER 99 ACTUATOR, on my wiring diagram I see there are 3 resistors inside the actuator for VACUUM VALVE, VENT VALVE and SAFETY VALVE. They state to verify they are all less than 69ohms but I have an OPEN CIRCUIT on all of them when skinning a part of the wires on the connector (Disconnected to the control module) but that shouldn't be an issue as its plugged into the actuator so I should still get my resistance values off the plug wires anyway right? All 3 resistances are OPEN CIRCUIT (nothing) would this be a dead actuator issue? Why would they all go bad? Would the bashing around under the car when redoing the floor pan with rivets and hammering the shape into place with some good hundred wacks all over cause weak resistances to shread connections inside if they were old and rusted? I'm so far deep into this problem I'm almost obsessed with the fact that EVERY FUSE, EVERY CONNECTION, EVERY SWTICH, EVERY WIRE moving around in this circuit seems to be good and functional I am down to the actuator and would like to get some help on making sure my diagnostic is heading in the right direction, any gurus out there mind helping me? Thanks a lot !!

As I explained the SET RESUME do get VOltage (Horn supplies current to them), clockspring is good as my airbag light is also off No the CC worked well before I worked on it which is why I'm a bit stumped. Thanks for your thought.

Any ideas?

Paralleled wires from remote starter removed ( Any incidence?) Unused connector again? Unused connector again? Unused connector?

Alright I'll post some pics in a minute but here are my evening's findings : There are effectively 2 switches on the clutch, the one on the bottom is the one for the cruise, the one on the top is for starting the car, both work. I have continuity from the switch to the control module on the wire coming from the switch (BLUE YELLOW) the BLACK/RED wire seems to go to the speed sensor under the car (This speed sensor also electronically drives the speedometer correct?) The Black/Red becomes BROWN after moving to the sensor side of the connector under the car. The BRAKE SWITCH (Has two sides one normally closed one normally open) Both options work tested separately... Tested the SET, RESUME, CANCEL switch get 12V (The voltage is drawn from the horn and sent to the cruise when you apply SET or RESUME to either the Light green/black and Red white wires on the control module) Does anyone have another "trail" I can start on all my parts seem to be good... Thanks for your help, I'll post some pictures in a minute of what the "unused connectors" look like and what the setup also looks like under the dash

Thanks I'll be working on this tonight thanks for your help!

Hey guys! New to the forum been up helping out a lot with center diffs on subaruforester.org, but am tackling something rather tricky that my lack of experience is getting the best of my patience... So I did lots of work on the car during august, (repairing the floor panels, changed the windshield and did some body work, and while I was inside doing the floor I noticed a bunch of useless wires dangling from under the steering so I took the trims off and there was a remote starter that was just hanging there I never got the remote for it and plus a bunch of wires already seemed to have been removed so I went ahead and took it out completely. At first the car didn't start until I realised there was just a bypassed wire for the ignition on the remote starter's wiring so I put that back into place and the rest was fine, but when I went to use the CRUISE CONTROL, the light comes on as usual, but when I SET a speed, nothing happens... now the actuator's vacuum line seems fine I don't see why anything would be "defective" after being a month inside my garage doing work, so where can I start to diagnose such a problem? I checked the clutch switch it seems to operate fine get continuity with pedal completely released and otherwise an open circuit, I unplugged the CC module and the switch doesn't come on unless its plugged so they both are communicating.. from what I've read if the horn operates the clock spring in the wheel is working so that eliminates another thing.. This is where I'm a little lost, one thing I do realise is there is a connector with a white/black and blue/yellow wire (only 2) that isn't plugged into anything, and from what I can tell there used to be an orange wire hooked to the black/white in parallel heading to the remote starter that I thought maybe was just a ground or +12V they maybe used to power the device? (I might be wrong maybe this is the culprit) anyway if anyone has any knowledge to share I'd be very happy to get some help... Thanks. Mat

Hey guys, I think this can help others and want to post it so I can get some advice at the same time! Recently when I was driving the car in a parking lot it felt like something was preventing me to move so I gave a little more gas (5 spd MT) and there was a noise, from then on there was knocking coming from the rear part of my tranny when DECELERATING mostly. So I removed the whole exhaust, the driving shaft, the transmission mount and whole cross member in the way, got the shifter linkage off (what a PITA) and was able to remove the COVER on the back of the transmission to find this sort of large shim in bad shape (A piece of it was broken into a bunch of smaller pieces riding around the center diff case... my two OUTPUT gears have damaged teeth, the bearings look good.. What to do from here? What is this shim? I mean if I just fix it up and straighten it out and removed the small damaged section flush all metalshavings from the case and reinstall the gears I think the car could drive for a while during this time I was planning on getting a good price for either the whole transfer case or a manual transmission from a scrapyard... What are you guys's opinions?