HadrianV

Never mind, I'm an idiot...never occurred to me to check the OTHER SOCKET. Progress, gentlemten. Progress. *facepalm*

I didn't. There was virtually no housing left on the old connector to indicate, I guess what I'm asking is If I am utterly lost, is there any way I can figure out what's what?

Alright guys, problem... The replacement I got is white with all black cables, looks like this: http://imageshack.us/a/img196/3456/7y7d.jpg The guy at advance auto had no clue which was what, so I attempted to splice and crimp...no result. I'm at a loss.

You guys rock, heartless that guide helped out so much, thanks a bunch ! I'll do as you guys suggested an go the heat shrink route. I'll keep you all posted.

So these can be done without soldering? To be honest I have no experience with it (I know, I know) nor do I have the tools. I take it the heat shrink type connectors are my best bet?

Glad to hear this is pretty common, thanks for the pro tip, I'll get a replacement asap. Are these things easy to install?

Hi guys, so about a few weeks ago I noticed my passenger side headlight wasn't working, so today I presumed the bulb blew and purchased a new set. I never changed these bulbs before so I referred to the manual, which told me to remove the "electrical connector" to the headlight, looked easy enough, so I pushed on both sides (as indicated)...wiggled it...nudged it...then stopped when I heard an alarming CRUNCH and felt the whole thing break apart in my grasp: The result: http://imageshack.us/a/img189/397/pju9.jpg So, I'm a bit concerned...Do I now have a completely broken headlight unit? Can this connector be replaced? Is it easily doable? And moreover, is it expensive? Im guessing the whole thing was dry rotted? The inside of the connector is corroded, complete with green oxidation on the wire. I'm thinking the bulb itself is not dead, since at one point the high beams worked for a second when fiddling with it (had the car on after it shattered to check if the driver side light still worked, lucky, it still does.) Thanks guys.

I just replaced the KS and everything feels like it's back to normal . I cleared the codes and so far I'm not getting any prompts from the CEL, it looks like we took care of it so far! The last thing I'm thinking about doing is changing the o2 sensor since I don't think was ever replaced yet, I believe that's where my terrible gas mileage is coming from...anyone familiar with this process and know where to start? I'm very grateful for all the advice you guys shared with me, you've all been a huge help!

Fairtax, I'm a bit concerned. The car's revving rpm's pretty hard just to accelerate, kinda feels like it's holding itself back. Is this limp mode?

Alright, I cleared the codes but shortly the CEL lit back up as expected. I ran the codes again and this time it just reads the KS. I'm going to replace it as soon as I can but I have an apartment viewing out of state tomorrow. Would it be safe to drive?

Will do. Any pointers on how to properly flush the coolant system? I've been wanting to do this for a while now.

I would like to report that the ECT sensor was the culprit, having perfect start-up's every time I turn the key, so it looks like the problem's fixed (the CEL even shut off without clearing). Thanks guys for all the advice!

Also I think it's worth mentioning that my fans run almost constantly, I suppose the sensor is to blame for this as well? I also only overheated once while stuck on traffic, moving at stop-go to standstills.

Thanks guys for replying, you're all being super helpful! I'll try the ECT sensor first, my gas mileage has been terrible since (burn through a full tank in a day) and it makes sense so I'll try this. Will post back results ASAP.

Thanks for the quick reply and warm welcome, Olnick! I've found a few guides here on how to replace a few of these sensors, I'll continue to do my homework. Not really afraid to work on these as my brother has a full garage I can use. Alright, I've owned it for about three years now and it's hitting close to 230k right about now (228,314 I believe). As far as repairs go I've only had the timing belt and cam seals replaced about a month ago, and the spark plugs were done yesterday. Anything before the car came into my possession I'm not sure of, other than the regular oil change.

Excuse me, Timing belt. iPhone correct that as 'going' belt ...

Alright, I'm going to try to be as clear as possible in explaining my issues, so I'll start from the top. STARTING ISSUE: It all began when I began having problems getting my subie to start. It would crank an crank bit never turn over, behaving as if the engine were flooded. The reason I conclude this is because the immediate fix is to keep the accelerator floored and crank until it catches but it either almost putters out (complete with smoke from the exhaust) until it fully fires up with a very, very high idle that eventually mellows out, or just fires up as if I just rev'd it pretty hard for a second. Thought it was spark so I changed the plugs, no difference, which leads me to conclude it's either... P0125, P0325, P0115 (Knock and temp sensor following a failing thermostat) : This is what The scan read after I got a diagnostics run on it today. After being told that my coolant system is pretty much afflicted with a myriad of problems I decided it was time to post my findings on this forum. What I want to ask is my car salvageable? Are these fixes DIY or would a professional be needed? Would these problems be tied to my starting issue? OTHER: It would be worth noting that my water pump is probably in need of replacement. The most recent repairs I had done were the cam seals and going belt, other than that just your usual oil change. I will also note that my coolant is pretty much brown/black at this point and fear that all this could be much worse than just a few sensor replacements. I apologize if anything sounds vague or too all over the place, feel free to ask me to clarify anything, I'm just a bit overwhelmed.