revtim

Is replacing the o-rings a DIY kind of job or one I should leave to my mechanic?

1006 Legacy 2.2 Wagon I tried the A/C for the first time today and noticed that the pump does not engage. I do not hear a click or anything but if I try to spin it, it spins freely. Don't know if ti's a bad solenoid or so low on freon it has cut out. Checked the 10 AMP fuse and it's good but don't know how to check those big black relay fuses so i'm stuck Where do I go from here? thanks,

Ok... sounds good. Will just change the full synthetic oil in it every 6000 miles adding MotorKote for good measure and run it till the wheels fall off.... then buy another. Thanks for all the input.

Thanks everyone for the responses. I am a bit confused by them however... if it was improper adjustment of the valves why would it only do it when cold and how would throttle position change the loudness? Piston slap is an interesting idea. Still, if it was piston slap, why did the MotorKote really lessen the noise? I wouldn't have thought it would do that. Naked Bull, I have always chosen MotorKote over Dura-Lub but am open to changing my mind if you can convince me why it's better. I am wondering if it would be due to wear or gummed up rings. I am trying to do what i can to clean up the internal workings. I bought the car with 162K on it and immediately did the valve job since it had a miss when I bought it. I don't know but I am thinking the car may have sat for a while in more recent times prior to my buying it. I switched to full synthetic oil and plan on changing the oil more frequently than I might normally.. like every 5k or so for a while and wanted something that might help free up things like rings and lifters etc by cleaning out the gunk. After reading what I could on the subject, I went with Rislone. Always open to other ideas. I really appreciate all the input. I am trying to learn all I can about this cause I really love Subarus and have since the mid and late 70's. I used to sell them back then and loved showing people under the hood how much more robust the construction was than the Toyotas and Datsuns. They were also way ahead of the industry back then with the SEEC-T engine. Anyway.. enough nostalgia. Please keep giving my your opinion on my tapping issue and ideas as to how to correct if possible. I want to drive this car until the wheels fall off or the body completely rusts away and a healthy/happy engine is the key to getting there.

1999 Legacy Wagon 2.2 L 172K AT Did a valve job and car runs fine except when I first start it... especially on cold mornings. Then there is a tapping sound that resolves after a couple of minutes when engine warms up. It's louder the colder it is (air temperature). Also, it's louder under load then when idling or when I come off the gas. I added MotorKote and it quieted considerably. I just added some Rislone too and it may have helped a little too but not a lot. Once warm, it runs quietly and when restarting at the end of the day to go home.. it's much quieter than in the AM when it's sat longer and is much colder. When it's under freezing, it's most prominent when first started. Any ideas what this might be and if there is a way to remedy it? Trying to figure out if it's something stuck cause it's gunked up inside (just got the car a couple of months ago).. or if something needs adjusting or what. Thanks for your opinions and suggestions.

Well.. I've already started down the road using the Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF so I might just keep going with it so I don't have to do extra changes... They're not too hard as I do them from the dipstick with my pela 6000 but still..... Thanks for the tip about manually shifting... I'll do that. Never would power flush as I am a cheap-rump roast DIY'er all the way... (when I have the skills anyway)

UGH.. what a horrible thought... Perhaps I should do a 4th or even 5th change to make sure I get everything changed...????

I will try the Lucas once finished the change out.... but am wondering if you know anything about the Seafoam Trans Tune vs Lucas.. and which Lucas... I notice there are two... a revitalizer and a stop slipping one

I am doing the three change plan. How many miles between changes would you suggest? I notice that the oil is quite a bit thicker when cool then when hot yet new in bottle is quite thin. Does this suggest it's really old? It looked great and smelled great on the dipstick... but since the only real problem in shifting is when it's first started up... I am beginning to think this thickness could be the issue. Haven't driven cold with second change (5 quarts) so I have no idea if it's helping yet.

I sure hope that's not true as I don't know if I am up to that task and I hate to have to take it to the UHaul folks to do the installation for me.. takes the cost way up.

1999 Legacy L Wagon. I want to install a trailer hitch but am having trouble locating the pigtail or even the wiring harness to connect the trailer wiring components to. Searching youtube and internet have shown the plug in various places from the driver's tail light port to the inside the passenger side cover but most videos are for outbacks and the more I look the more differences I discover between the two. Can anyone help me determine if there is a preexisting pigtail I can plug into and where I can find it or the wiring I would need to tap into if not. thanks

1999 Legacy L 2.2 liter engine A/T 165K on Odo. Car runs great but shifts a little slow sometimes allowing a small rev increase during shift. (I drive with a very light touch) Trans fluid is clean and no burnt smell. Had filter cleaned. Just got the car but believe it was stored or at least not driven for a while. Looking for the best possible tonic to add to the trans fluid to help restore it if that's what it needs or any other suggestions to help restore it to maximum functioning. Thanks

PLASTIC!!! I thought it felt strange for metal. OK.. I want to make sure I purchase the right radiator since the engine is currently a 2.2 and I know it originally came with a 2.5 in that year so I checked the tag on the radiator. Now I am really confused. First, it says "Made in USA" which I think is unusual. And the model number shows as 45111 AC100 which is not the normal one for a 97. In fact, I can't find this particular model number anywhere for a subaru. Any suggestions how I can make sure I get one that will fit the existing brackets or what to do about ordering correctly. Also, anyone know if plastic epoxy will work to shore up the leak on a temporary basis anyway? it is not yet leaking over the entire crack... just one place I know of

1997 Subaru Legacy Outback. Manual transmission. My radiator has sprung a leak and sealant has failed. I think I am facing replacement at this point but just want to clear something up. The leak is on the front-right (passenger) side of the radiator on the "tank" portion of the radiator. It's leaking from either a seam or a crack.. I don't know which it is. I have attached a photo. Hopefully one of you can confirm that it's a crack. Also, is this a common failure in a Subaru radiator? I've never seen such a thing before in any car. Also, can I just replace the tank or do I have to replace the entire radiator.? Thanks

Had it done and forgot to ask for them back. Not the sharpest knife in the drawer sometimes. But, like I said.... now it's running fine. Just can't figure out what I might have done bymoving around the coil wire to fix it.