Cpm590

Not sure if it still has that code . Borrowed a scanner from a local parts store when I first had the problem. Is the part number you posted for a crankshaft sensor or for the plug that connects into the sensor? I got a new crankshaft sensor based on the codes that came up and still had a no start. The plug for the senor had exposed wires and looked like it may be the issue so was looking to replace that part. Wasn't able to find the part anywhere except a salvage yard.

Checked the fuel line. Fuel came out at a pretty good clip. Remember seeing spark earlier on when I first started trying to figure out what the problem was. I'm going to check that again. Feel good that I have some directions to try and head in at least. Really had no clue after the sensor change didn't work.

Well, we all learned that I didn't know where the hell the timing belt was. Always assumed it was one of the external belts. Embarrassing. Finally had good enough weather to work on the car. I removed some of the covers to take a look at the timing belt. The belt isn't broken. I turned the crankshaft manually and from what I could tell there's a single line marker ,a double line marker that's dotted on one end with lines running horizontal and is about an inch wide and then another single line marker after that as you turn it. None of these markers line up with the notch on the pulley that is now visible. The closest is one of the single lines that lines up at about 11 o'clock or 5 of the belt teeth to the left when the pulley notch is at 12. Not sure how much play there should be on the belt but there seems to be a good bit as its coming towards the top of the pulley. wondering how much play is a good amount. Also If the tensioner could be the issue. Saw where someone had a bad one and had caused some knocking. I noticed some knocking a few days leading up to the no start on mine. Wasnt real real bad but was enough to notice the difference.

Just now had a chance to look at these posts. Thanks for all the feedback. The car is a 97 wagon 2.2. The water pump was replaced in 2010or 11. They replaced the belts at that time but not sure about any components. I'll have to find the paperwork. They seem ok. They're on the pulleys and look in decent shape. The pulleys and belts were turning while we tried to crank it over. I noticed the upper pulley on the right side that drives the thinner belt has an outer plate that I could pretty easily turn by hand. Not sure what this part is or if that's how it should be. It seems to be not getting fuel but when you turn the ignition to ON it sounds like the fuel pump is turning on. Pretty sure the codes are cleared but only because I had the battery unhooked for awhile at one point. Don't know if clearing them that way would make a difference. As far as being reset not sure. I don't have a scanner. I was able to borrow one from a parts store but don't currently have one with me. I started with the sensor and then the plug just basing it on what the trouble codes were saying. I read a little about a reluctor disc being a possible cause but I have know idea how to check that.

Legacy wouldn't start. Seem to not be getting fuel. Plugged in a scanner and got 336 and 325 codes. Crankshaft position sensor and knock sensor. Replaced the crank sensor but still wouldn't start. Noticed that the wires to the plug that goes into the sensor we're exposed and very worn. Couldn't find anyone who has this part. Guy at Subaru had trouble finding the part said they would call back when they found it. Still haven't heard back. Pulled two plugs from the junkyard and tried splicing each of them. Still won't start. Don't know where to go from this point. Are there other issues that can come from a 336 code? Has anyone had this problem with their Subaru? Any help and suggestions would be great. Thanks.

I'm changing the front bearing on my legacy wagon. Have the steering knuckle off the hub out and the outer bearing off. The new bearing I bought is incased. It's all one piece. The old bearings are exposed bearings and are made up of several different pieces. Wondering if I got the right part. Do the new bearings come all in one part? Is the casing the race for these new bearings. I bought a new hub as well. The new bearing looks like it will fit on the new hub but don't know if all that will fit into the steering knuckle. I don't want to take the race out of the steering knuckle if it's a matter of me buying the wrong replacement part and doesn't need to be removed. Any advice on what to do next would be great. Thanks.

I've found hub assemblies online for around 35$ and wheel bearings for around the same. I have access to a press but its about 30min from my house. Was thinking I could get that all set and ready for when I do the replacement. Try to keep the amount of time my car is up on blocks taking garage space to a minimum. Keeping the old one is def a good idea and will do that. Thanks for the info.

Planning to change a front wheel bearing on my subaru wagon. Wanted to know if you get a hub assembly will the bearing come as part of the new assembly. Was thinking that it may be better to replace the whole assembly and not have to deal with pulling the bearing and pressing the new one. Any info would help a lot, thanks.

Ok I'll take a look at that. Can that be addressed without taking the axle off? I still think there is an issue with the bearing as well and plan to replace that next so I would be able to check it then if it does need to come off. Thanks

Had the front axles replaced last year. Recently started hearing squealing noise coming from the front. It was hard to pin point while driving but was thinking wheel bearing. Jacked and Hand turned each wheel. The sound seemed to be coming from the inner axle/diffrential area. I checked the diff oil and it was way above the full line. Changed the diff oil and it seemed quieter at first but still getting the noise. Not sure what steps to take next. Can the wheel bearing transfer the noise up the axle shaft to where it would sound like its coming from the inner axle? Also on tight turns like at a stop sign both left and right the turns aren't smooth. There isn't any clicking but just feels kinda of segmented. The new axles only have about 11k so feel like it shouldn't be the cv joint. Can the tie rods create these issues? Sorry I realize its a lot of info. Any help anyone has to offer would be great. Thanks.