nakedandfam0us

Picked up tc seal and ring-seal 31361aa000 from subaru. there are 2 split seals in the bag, but only one on the fsm... I wonder why

The viper systems look pretty nice. Thanks for the reply my friend! I will post back when I get to installing one that plays nice with subarus

thanks for the reply but that didn't answer any of my questions lol. I'm curious as to why the injectors are insulated. I couldn't come up with a good reason.

Putting a 2002 ej251 out of an impreza m/t into a 2000 outback a/t. Why, oh why, is the timing different between an auto and manual? I have a fsm for a 2000 legacy. FSM: Ignition timing [bTDC/rpm]: MT vehicle: 10°±8°/650 AT vehicle: 15°±8°/700 Also, I was planning to swap the injectors between the two. Looking at the FSM it shows just an o-ring seal for the a/t, an o-ring and insulator for the m/t. Anybody know what that's all about? Thanks! The build is coming along slowly but quite nice.

Looking to wire up a remote starter for my 2000 outback. it has keyless entry. Can anybody suggest a good/better/best to buy? Thanks! No more cold winter mornings...

Yeah the sprockets have a R and L stamp on them so no worries there. How long do the sensors last that read the sprockets? Ordered injector o-rings from subaru yesterday. cheap, easy peace of mind

Good to hear. I did notice a difference in the cam sprockets so the car specific set are cleaned up and ready for install after my gates timing belt kit arrives. I will order some new injector seals (appears to be 3 seals per injector, 2 into the manifold and one fatty o ring into the rail) and swap for the newer set of 4. I'll get some pics up as well for anybody else going down this path. Thanks

Okay so leave em alone, just new o rings. Sounds good. Follow up question: I am mid-motor-swap putting an 02 block in a 00 car. I was advised on this forum to leave ecu, original intake manifold, cam and crank sprockets. The injectors on the 02 manifold which I am not using are 1. newer and 2. different colour/part number. (I can go copy numbers down if needed) I'd rather use the newer ones, I mean, why not right? More squirts away from death, and possible an improved design. Is there any reason why I can't? Ej251AXAWL 2002 motor from TS, car is 2000 outback ltd Ej251AW3AB.

If you're just looking for a daily driver i'd recommend using subaru shocks. The build quality vs the monroe or whatever at your local parts shop is worth the extra cash. Good quality stock parts.

Stripped my ej251 intake manifold down to nothing to shine it up. Pulled fuel rails, sensors, injectors, etc. the works. Whats the best way to clean/inspect/replace injectors, since I have them out already. Thanks

Rear main has oozed a bit over the years there's 300k km on her. easy replacement when it's out. No oil pan gasket just an oil pan (mines rusted). might check into knock sensor...

I pulled cam and crank sprockets yesterday from the original motor, they are going on the newer motor today. I wouldn't have thought of them so thanks. I got the bulk of my parts as well so its BUILD DAY!!! yay! Using the original ECU, Sprockets, Intake. thanks again for the advice everyone!

I'm not splitting this motor the heads are okay, new HG from previous owner. Building heads up on the blown motor this winter. ALL the guides and seals are getting replaced... she hit pretty bad lol

Here is a price breakdown of what these bits cost, figured I'd take a minute to scribble it down for anyone else going down this road. I am in Ontario, Canada as I'm sure prices differ regionally. From local Subaru dealer- The two seals I questioned about above total $18. Thermostat 78deg $26.20 Oil pan $66.08 V-belt $21.58 (mitsubishi) a/c belt $27.90 (gates) rear main seal $16.66 water pump gasket $3.40 oil seperator plate $21.79 bolts for sep plate $0.39/ea from ebay Gates timing belt kit TCKWP304 with waterpump $172 USD + exchange + import + shipping + tax = $221.64 CND from local auto parts shop (+tax) Valve cover gasket kit $50.36 (with spark plug seals and 10 bolt grommets) Fel-pro intake manifold gasket set $12.54 Knock sensor $132.55 Front main seal $18.71 PCV valve $4.93 don't forget plugs, wires, oil, filter, coolant, engine cleaner, sand paper, anaerobic sealant, rtv sealant.... prices vary by quality. I'm still under "budget" (had a dollar figure in mind to get this car rolling) but certainly costing me a little bit more than expected. reassembly beginning today

I was at the dealer yesterday picking up some parts so yep I went for the $20 worth of seals. Does $132 seem right for an aftermarket knock sensor? I figured I'd change it as well, I bought it already from local parts store, just thought that was a bit steep?

This shaft is located between the torque converter and the transmission, running through the transfer case. Item #7. I understand it is what powers the oil pump inside the 4 speed. Is this seal #6 supposed to be a split seal or should it be a continuous ring? Since it's already out of the vehicle, I'd imagine I should replace #6 and #15 ? THANKS!

Thanks. I'll probably just leave the bugger as it is then.

i like the starter idea for depth checking. makes sense. so i think i've got it figured out what happened. when i pulled the motor the tranny pump shaft came with the motor. which is better than it staying the 4 speed i guess. On this shaft is a small metal clip that holds pump shaft to TC. on other end of the shaft is a small seal, which broke. I am going to replace that small seal on the pump shaft, and the seal that is visible in the front of the transfer case. I know on some motors (example ford 351C) they use a 28oz weight on the flywheel/flex plate, if you use a different weighted flywheel you're hooped. Is a subaru flex plate balanced all the way around? can i bolt it to the crank is any orientation? thanks again everyone your help has been great

I was unaware of the torque converter issue, thanks for that. I didn't give much thought to it when I pulled the engine, but now I'm wondering if I should have left the TC connected to the tranny and unbolted it through the access hole on the top of the motor? The pump shaft came out with the engine and a clip as well tz1a4caba more reading to do,,

Tearing down a 2002 ej251 to drop into a 2000 outback and noticed the L rear cam seal doesn't appear to be seated properly. There isn't evidence of a huge leak but I'd like to fix properly. Tap it square with a socket? Replace? What do you think. thanks!

spoken from experience? Thanks for the advice I will double check before cranking... LOL!

Thanks for the replies I don't mind an auto tranny i guess, it certainly does have it's benefits, but sure do prefer the more control of a 5 speed especially in the snow. Cam, crank sprockets and intake. On it! The pistons did get hit pretty good, more so from when the previous owner tried to start it without fixing valves first. if i didn't have a running block already i would opt for a quicky head job and be done with it, but i figured this is a better route for now. Going to wrench on the 2002 motor today so we'll see how that goes Cheers

Thanks for the welcome Car seems straight and clean so I figured for 600 bucks with 2 sets tires/rims, one being brand new goodyear eagle directional snow tires, other yokos on the stock aluminums, it was worth the gamble. The guy who owned it cooked the timing belt, replaced belt, and attempted to start it. nice eh?! so whatever, i have a running ej251 out of an 02 TS that is going in for now. Planning a winter project rebuild of the original block. pulled heads first to check out the carnage, which was bad enough to warrant the motor swap. I posted a couple pics in the proper thread of the car and some bent valve awesomeness lol. I got the motor out today and parts ordered... i posted a question in the proper forum about some electrical questions. Glad to be a part of the forum!

got the motor out with only one ignorant bolt to hassle me, so can't really complain. going to start on the new(er) motor tomorrow never had the "pleasure" of having an auto tranny before either so I'm sure I will run into a couple questions for the experts. thanks in advance all!

Hello everyone, I picked up a 2000 outback limited with a blown timing belt. Well... it had a blown belt, and the guy slapped on a new one and tried to start it... so needless to say the motor is in dire straights. pulled heads there's bent valves, damaged pistons, and all that fun stuff. no problem, i have a running motor out of a 2002 TS that I will drop into the car as a temporary fix while I completely rebuild the original motor over the winter. The car is an auto (gross) which I'm going to leave for now until the rebuilt motor goes in and I have rounded up clutch linkage, rear diff etc. I ordered from subaru today- oil pan, exhaust gaskets, rear main seal, oil separator plate, water pump gasket, t-stat housing gasket. I ordered from online today- gates timing belt kit tckwp304, t-stat. The 2000 ecu currently in the car is for an auto tranny tz1a4caba and ej251axawl engine. The 2002 engine going into the car is for a standard tranny tyl54vc2aa and ej251aw3ab engine. So, should I swap the ecu with the matching motor and trick into thinking there is an auto, or leave it as is and just plug in the motor? And, is my parts list complete for this project? Like I say I'm just looking for 6 months of reliability so basically I am going economy class for now, and going all out on the winter build. Thanks for any advice here, I have done tons of reading it seems either way will work but I figured check with the experienced before I'm turning the key.