pixie

Thanks, Gloyale. Any other opinions? What if putting the new one on the front and leaving the other tires configured as is would mean putting the new one with the most worn down one? The difference between my worst tire (they didn't all have identical wear when measured them carefully) and the tread on a new one according to specs is about 3.5/32". The other two still have tread depth much closer to the original measurement of 13.5/32", coming in between 12/32 and 13/32. So, if it's ok to get a new one at 13.5/32 and have one at 10/32 and two at 12-13/32, how should I arrange them on the car? Seems strange to put the new one with the most worn down one. This forum makes me happy!

Hit a pothole wrong with my lightly used year-old snow tires and will have to buy one replacement tire for my 97 Legacy. Poor old girl's a bit of a junker, so I can't see buying four new tires. Advertised to try to find the same brand tire lightly used to about the same tread depth, but no luck with that needle in a haystack... I keep reading 1/4" difference in circumference (which comes out to between 2 and 3 32nds) or 2/32" is the max acceptable difference. Any chance I could push that to a little more? Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback all

Just a little update. My partner checked out all the possible problems. - testing the solenoid in the steering column, works. At least by holding it at bay with a small pen and gauging the strength of the solenoid's magnetic tension with various pressure of holding the pen between his fingers. Enough tension created by the electrical charged within that coil. - testing both switches ( he pulled off an extra switch and solenoid from another subaru car) that are located within the transmission shifter (both contacts work) - replaced the solenoid on the transmission shifter. He tested it before replacing by hooking it up to a couple of batteries. The magnetic strength was present to shift the latch. Now on changing the solenoid, he found another problem. Hahaha.... it was classic too. The strength of charge wasn't there for the solenoid to move the latch over. So he checked underneath the dash for the break release button. And found a number of wire (purple and grey) that are completely disconnected from somewhere. He is not exactly sure from where. There is a random black plastic dual-wire female connector that isn't connected to anything. Also some random wire (X) that has been disconnected from who knows where and the insulation has been removed and is latched onto (copper wire is wrapped around) another wire (Y) (small section of insulation has been removed). This connecting "Y" wire comes up from the break release button/switch that I presume is directly related to the transmission lever/solenoid system. Pictures to come very soon. I imagine these wires are related to the poor strength of voltage being sent to the solenoid.

Thanks for the advice! Good thing for this forum - every parts store I contacted said the two separate parts wouldn't fit... but as you all said, they did! Used parts from a 1998 Legacy Outback. Had to cut the wires and use the connectors from my vehicle, but other than that: simple!

Thanks guys! I'll let you know what works.

Sweet! I'll head back to the yard tomorrow, and let you know how it turns out. Good luck with your project.

I'm in Quebec, Canada... So hoping someone might know of a possible substitution. Thanks!

I have a 97 legacy L and can't find a headlight assembly with the built-in turn signal like the original, without special ordering a new one at too high a cost. Lots of places have the one that doesn't have the built-in turn signal but none have the one-piecer. Does anyone know if the separate headlight and turn signal would fit and work instead, or if any other year or model's headlight assembly could fit and work? Many thanks!!

Hi there, My 97 automatic (straight line shift pattern) Legacy intermittently, and increasingly, will not shift out of park without pressing the bypass switch. I can hear a clicking in the steering column/under the dash when I try to press the button on the side of the shifter that normally allows shifting, the button won't go in and the shifter won't move out of park. When I use the bypass switch it shifts effortlessly. I do depress the brake when trying to get it to come out of park, but the only sound I hear is associated with pressing the trigger button on the shifter, and it comes from either the steering column or behind the dash, not near the shifter or low near the brake pedal. There is no sound associated with pressing the brake pedal. From I've read around on old threads, it sounds like the most likely cause is some solenoid... so I'm hoping to find the specific name of this solenoid (shift interlock solenoid? shift linkage solenoid? shift lock solenoid?) and ideally instructions on how to replace it.... I'd also love to get confirmation that these symptoms don't suggest a problem with something else like the neutral safety switch, brake switch, inhibitor switch, shifter cable.... Thanks a bazillion!

As I mentioned above, I have the same problem with my 97 automatic legacy as markjplatten who started this thread: it intermittently, and increasingly, "will not move out of park without pressing the bypass switch. I can hear a clicking in the steering column." So, since I hear the a relay clicking under the dash/in the steering column, from what you're saying I'm assuming my problem is "the solenoid." Can you tell me the full name of this solenoid so I can try to find a replacement one? Like, is it the shift interlock solenoid? The shift linkage solenoid? The shift lock solenoid? etc I don't think my Haynes manual gets into this (I looked before but I don't have it in front of me right now). Can anyone give or direct me toward instructions on how to replace this solenoid? Do I understand correctly that these symptoms are specific to this solenoid and don't suggest a problem with the neutral safety switch, or the brake switch? Thanks a bazillion!!

I have the same problem with my 97 automatic legacy as markjplatten who started this thread: it intermittently, and increasingly, "will not move out of park without pressing the bypass switch. I can hear a clicking in the steering column." I don't hear any clicks anywhere related to pressing on the brake pedal with the key on, just the click in the steering column (or under the dash?) when i press the trigger button on the shifter to move the car out of park. Can you tell me what this means about the shift lock mechanism's problem, or the problem in general?