coclimber
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Posts posted by coclimber
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Here's the pin out I found online. It only shows 7, which would make sense about the two others I pulled from the junkyard. But, I am clueless as to why my van's 2001 Legacy OBD2 female connector has 8... Looks like pin 16 is the batter power you speak of. Need that! Which others do you think now?
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My project:
Create my own OBD2 splitter and extend an OBD2 cable with ONLY the required wires under my van to the front-dash.
Background:
My '86 VW van has a 2001 Subaru Legacy engine in it, but the engine bay is in the rear of the van. I want to run "required" OBD2 wires up front and make an OBD2 diagnostic port available in the van's dash area. Yes, I know Bluetooth exists, but I want a mechanic to be able to use their preferred scantool under the dash while test driving it, so I am running wires from back to front regardless of this fancy, Bluetooth technology.
Problem
I look at the 2001 Subaru OBD2 connector and it has 8 wires connected to it.
I went to the scrap yard and pulled two more Diagnostic Ports w/ OBD2 connectors for my project and I see 7 wires connected to the OBD2 connectors! What? These 7 pin connectors were pulled from a 2001 and 2003. To make matters more confusing, I have a friend with a later model VW/Subaru conversion with drive-by-wire (2011) that only has 3 wires connected on his custom OBD2 port for his VW van project (note: "custom", not stock)...
Why are they different?
What pins in my OBD2 do I really need to wire up on my project? I don't want to split & run 8 wires up front, if I only need 3...
Jason
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I'd like to have an integrated res on top of my '01 P/S pump. I can't seem to get a good answer from parts stores online... Is this even an option for a 2001 or am I stuck with a remote res?
Jason
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Nice! Ditch the compressor too!!! I like it.
Thanks for the quick reply -
I am putting a 2001 Legacy engine into a VW Vanagon as an engine conversion project. The van does not have AC, so I figure "why do I need to hook up the belt to the AC compressor? Is it possible to just leave it off and have that many less moving parts in my engine? What are the benefits and downsides to driving with this belt off?
Thanks!Jason
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Alrighty then. NAPA in Boulder,CO really stepped up for me. They didn't have a spool but found a random 1' left laying around and just gave it to me for free! It is fuel vapor hose so rated for this application. Yay! Time to put my intake back on!!
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25/32nds evap rated hose from any NAPA/CarQuest/O'riellys....etc.....
No luck. These stores only carry 3/4" heater hose which is not rated for this application.
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I agree with Larry, $1000 is probably reasonable from an individual. The 2001 wreck I bought in Sept. was $1000 too. Had 161K miles on it, so close to yours.
I'm unclear about how much you are getting from the insurance company if they "total" it? If they 'total' your car and pay you a check, they will take the car, correct? So, you might just take the highest of either the insurance check or ~$1000...
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I need to just replace the bottom hose on this PVC kit. Subaru dealer wants $75 for whole kit. They don't sell just the hose separately. Does anybody have an idea how to make one myself? Where to get the hose/part separately?
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Hi all!
Yesterday, I successfully installed my first timing belt kit and water pump ever. Thanks to everyone for your help on this thread. Very satisfying to do this on my own. Photo of "minorly" successful install here.... Read on!
So, I get the timing belt on, ensure its lined, up and pull the pin only to see that I forgot the rear timing cover that goes behind the last idler pulley. DOH!!! I got the pin back in, luckily. Then, removed that last idler pulley and put the timing cover on. Done.
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why?
as long as it is not flopping around and rubbing on the belt ,
who cares.
there are lots of folks, some off roaders, who run without covers.
covers do protect the belt form dirt water snow and damage,
and more protection is better than less,
but a little less is not going to ruin your engine.
I'm the kinda guy, who buys a VW Vanagon from CA, because they don't rust like here in CO, drives it home, and then tears out the whole interior to rust proof the interior seams because it "may" have rust (and they did!!). So, I'm overly cautious (e.g. anal) about things I guess.
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My timing cover is cracked. One side connector is completely gone (but the others will hold it on good enough I think). I am concerned about dust & grime getting under the cover where there is a smashed hole (side) and a long horizontal crack in it.
Does anyone have a recommendation on how to fix this?
Is there a product like an epoxy or resin that will do the trick while holding up under the heat of the engine?
Jason
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Here's a photo of the engine. Evidently, it is the hugest engine photo ever taken! I hope people can see it OK.
2.5L
SOHC (it is NOT DOHC)
I still have to take the intake manifold and coolant manifold off for the project I'm doing. However, I'd love to not have to remove valve covers to see in there. Would pulling the spark plugs help at all to release compression when moving the cams around or help to somehow see what is going on?
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My 2.5L "interference" engine has no timing belt on it and the timing components are NOT aligned with the tick marks on the engine. How do I make sure the pistons are set up properly and the tick marks align without ruining any valves when I put the new timing belt on?
TIA,
Jason
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Wow. Lots of good options on that car-parts.com site near Denver!
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I have a 2001 Subaru Legacy SOHC 2.5L engine and the P/S pulley on the front is warped from falling over on it. Yes, it fell over. Stupid me! Anyway, I am looking at all my options.
1. Replace whole P/S pump
2. Replace only the P/S pump pulley
3. Do I need to buy P/S gaskets/seals kit if I replace the pump? Seems like that is only if i rebuilt one myself from scratch... Confused.
Questions are:
- Can I get the P/S pulley off the engine without having to take the whole P/S pump off? If so, any guidance on tools, and procedure are appreciated.
If I have to remove the whole pump just to replace a pulley, I might as well just replace the whole pump.. So, I've looked online and found this pump.
- It seems like all the years from say '00-'04 should be compatible, but when I look at this part online, it says "no---sir----eeee! You cannot put this pump into an '01 Legacy". Weird. Why would it be different across these years!?
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Hi!
My project is to swap a Subaru engine into an old VW Vanagon.
I also want to install the donor Subaru's cruise control into the van, which presently has no cruise control. I took all the cruise control parts I could think of off of the donor Subaru 2001 Legacy L and documented it all on my blog along with photos. I would appreciate it if some experts here could read my blog page, look at what I've got, and let me know if I'm missing something critical. That would be most helpful!!
http://westycamper.blogspot.com/p/subaruvanagon-engine-swap.html
TIA,
Jason
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Newer cars deactivate the cruise control when the CEL is on.
Any idea what year they started deactivating cruise on a CEL?
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The drive-by-wire models don't use a separate cruise computer, the cruise switch connects directly to the ECU. I have read that the ECU needs to be changed to have this functionality, which would be quite expensive and complicated.
There are two kinds of aftermarket cruise units, an all electronic one that goes inline from the gas pedal to the ECU, and a simple cable one that could be attached to the gas pedal arm itself. I'd try to find the electronic variety myself.
Hi! Which years are considered "drive-by-wire"?
I have a 2001 Subaru Legacy L. Is that drive-by-wire or not?
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Thanks luko. Looks like RockAuto's Gate TB kit, after shipping = $170, so its a wash for me buying the Aisin water pump separately. I'll look at Rock Auto in the future though to get a good deal from same place all at once!
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2.5L SOHC from a 2001 Legacy
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I am kinda set on Gates after reading a lot about their product. Now, I have an interesting dilemma about how MUCH to replace....
The water pump is bad. I already bought that. And, since the water pump is bad that means I have to take all the timing components off anyway... That said, the timing components were done 45K miles ago. So, I have these options I guess:
Option 1 $35 total (Gates T307 belt only): Just change timing belt but keep rest of the kit at 45K. These leaves me with a timing belt that can go 105K, but everything else is at 45K already.
Option 2 $136 total (Gates Timing Belt kit): Get a Gates kit and change it all out so that every piece of the puzzle is at the same mileage
Do I have timing belt and other components "off" on mileage or do I keep them all the same and replace everything there?
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I've heard different things: "timing belts never break, its the other timing components that fail" to "you must buy best timing belt ever"
What should I look to spend on a good timing belt and what is a good brand?
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OK. Got it. I see one on Amazon for only $43 which is about $65 cheaper than any OEM Subaru logo-ed water pump I could find online. If Aisin is one of their suppliers, it sounds like I should pull the trigger on this one!
Required OBD2 pins/wires for 2001 Subaru?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Huh.. So, you say these #s are all backwards!
I've noticed the pin outs on some documentation gets "flipped" depending on if you are looking at the female or male connector. But, either way, if the documentation on the pin out references the correct #, it wouldn't matter, I could just read it L to R or R to Left. Oh well! Let me take a look-see a little closer!