Great White Buffalo

SOLD!!! For $900.

Yea, I wanted to tell the guy he was smoking crack for wanting to buy it for $600. I told him straight up its my daily and its safe since he tried arguing the point that it wasn't safe enough for his 18 year old...the same kid he won't allow to drive his new ford F250. Sheesh. People...so, thoughts on my car folks? How's it look?

So, I posted my car a couple hours ago here: http://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/4510594468.html I don't expect to get $1000, but it's a good starting point for negotiating. The car runs, drives, stops, signals, etc. It needs the 4wd fixed and has a cracked windshield but that's the only major issues. About an hour after posting the ad (before I got pics/details up) I had a guy come out and look at it and he test drove it. Said he wouldn't pay more than $600. I told him I wasn't comfortable letting it go for less than $700 cash on hand. He tried bs'ing me about the brakes, saying they felt spongy...no they don't. He also doesn't know squat about Subarus-he said so before test driving it. All vehicles are different so...whatever. The dude wanted to buy the car for his 18 yr old kids who's coming into town soon and would drive it for all of 3 weeks, only to turn around and sell it.

I appreciate the input folks. As Miles stated, I firmly believe any vehicle that runs/drives AND is capable of being a daily w/o substantial work-is in fact, worth decent money. Now yes, my wagon has 214k and ticking plus the laundry list of items. To be honest though, the windshield doesn't affect how it drives, nor do the other non-aesthetically pleasing issues i.e. missing carpet, undone panels, etc. The biggest thing is the 4wd and pass front wheel issues. My wagon's getting 26mpg average so there doesn't appear to be binding. The truth is, $750 is more than fair for someone to drop on a car they can drive home. I doubt I'll get $900 for it, but the exterior is clean (more or less) given the age. Just needs a good pressure wash bath is all...and wiping down the interior plus shampooing/vacuuming the carpets wouldn't hurt. As for what others are selling here in WA, Loyales entailed, I've seen them go from $600 to $2000, depending on issues and mileage. Here are about four for sale right now: http://skagit.craigslist.org/search/cto?query=loyale Here is a '94 Loyale 4wd 3AT for $700 that has issues including an axle fix. Granted, it's only 182k on the odo, but it doesn't come out of first gear. http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/4504166223.html So all in all, screw it...I'll post my wagon AS IS for $1000 and see what nibbles I get. Let's go fishing! Haha Regards, Buffalo

Single range...and there's no way I'm letting it go for $500. That's insane. Asinine even. It runs, drives, and stops w/o issue. $500 isn't far from what you can get for scrapping it or having it hauled off. I realize I probably won't get $900 for it, but $750 is rock bottom and more than reasonable. I've seen one's on CL sell for more w/blown head gaskets.

Hello again folks, So I'm looking at seeing how much I can get away with selling my wagon for in its current condition and thought what better people to ask about such matters than you all. Given the list of issues below, what would be a fair price to ask for? I was thinking $750-900. Thoughts? 1992 Subaru Loyale 5spd 4x4 (White w/stock Subaru hubcaps) Odo - 214,417.8 mi - Blown passenger side speaker - Cracked windshield - 4x4 isn't working (light is flickering-no idea why) - Steering wheel pulls slightly to the right (hit the front passenger wheel assembly hard months ago on a curb on wet pavement) - Missing cargo area carpet - Stereo knob is broken off - Passenger side window needs adjusting (friction between glass and door when raising) - Lift supports are shot - Wipers are worn - Minor rust here and there - gash in headliner towards back/matching dent in hood above gash All in all, I think $750-900 is more than acceptable--$750 being rock bottom price for a good running vehicle--and I'm hoping to either get a CRX or possibly a BRAT...maybe a Justy...money and time will determine which. If I fixed all the above fixes I think I could get $1000+ for it, but I don't know squat about the PNW auto market, hence why I'm here posting this. I'll post pics later of the wagon to give you all a better idea of its condition.

Excuse my delay Josh, I'm in Island County...Oak Harbor, WA to be exact. Why would an EA81 be a better alternative to an EA82? I can understand the EJ swap, that seems like a no brainer. My overall plan, assuming I'm keeping this rig, is to truly make it a rig: lift, tires as mentioned...plus lights on the front and top, maybe a winch in the future (if that happens, the front bumper is getting swapped out. As for my old Ramcharger, I miss the leg room, head space, and sheer size. I doubt I'll make it to that meet considering my circumstances right now but I'll keep those in mind for the future. Thanks for the insight. Anthony

Good afternoon folks, So I took a look at the back panels that hold up the back end of the headliner and it seems there's small rounded plastic clips that part of the panels attach to, but it seems they're a pain to get the panels attached to...any tips?

Here's another question. I used to own a 1984 Dodge Ramcharger 4x4. It was almost like the mechanical love of my life. Manual transmission, auto locking hubs, Hi-Lo Range and then some...built like a tank, but ate like a pig so the mpg was less than half of my wagon's...to the point-what would be the advantage of having my wagon as a wheeler over an older heavier truck, mpg aside?

All of it sounds good. I basically wanted to have my wagon sit slightly higher (2-4 inches), have slightly meaty tires, and a Hi-Lo Tranny. The GL 5spd covers the tranny and the tires/lift won't be hard. I'm not sure what the largest tire size I can get is before I start seeing a serious decrease in my MPG though. It rarely ever snows where I'm at in Washington, but it rains more often than not so the roads typically get wet. I'd definitely want tires that grip better than the ones on now.

So, from all the provided info, let me see if I have this right... - Transmission from a 85-98 ea82 (non turbo) - 3.90 rear diff - Rearrange interior pieces - Slightly bigger AT tires - Possible 2-3" lift ...and this Loyale could get it's off-road on properly. Also, how much will mpg drop with the swapped tranny and bigger tires? Any guesses? Nick1208, do you have a link to the thread? Much appreciated. - Buffalo

How much would one of those transmissions run me? Would that be from a GL?

I'm sure this has been covered extensively within these forums so forgive my poor eyesight and plausible brazen laziness. To the point... I have a 1992 Loyale 5-spd with the push button 4x4...switch in the top of the shifter. This is the vacuum actuated variety and I've always been more trusting of 4x4 that uses a mechanical linkage. That said, would it be worth investing in a slight lift and larger tires for off-roading or should I instead hunt down an 80s GL with the Hi-Lo range? I've seen Loyales lifted and off roading, but I figured I'd fish around for input from you gentlemen/ladies (don't know if there's any ladies with Subis out there, just covering my PC basis). I bought this wagon for $450 off of CraigsList back in July of last year and it has been good to me. I really want to get back into off roading but dont want to waste money on the wrong rig. If this particular wagon isn't great for off roading, I'll just go ahead and invest in a truck again unless I can find a decent GL locally and revive it. Thoughts? Thanks again. Take care. - Buffalo

Okay, so Subis like OEM parts, proper care, and the good ole KISS method (Keep It Simple Stupid)...sound about right? I honestly wasn't looking to spend much money. I just thought the performance wires would speed up ignition and save fuel. Seemed to work on my ramcharger when I had it...and yes, I know, Subarus are a different beast. I'm still learning. Thanks for the helps gents. Y'all are great. (G.W.) Buffalo

Ok, so here's the plan. I'm thinking of installing a K&N oil filter and air filter, and performance spark plugs/plug wires/ignition coil. The purpose behind it (in theory) is that I'll have less time in the ignition process which will save me on fuel and also give me a slight boost in acceleration. If any of this seems off or I'm flat out wrong, please let me know. Input is welcome here. Also, where can I find a new actuator for my wagon? 1992 Subaru Loyale Wagon, 5spd, 4x4

So...update...got a hub assembly from a Loyale wagon at a local salvage yard and replaced the damaged one that was on mine. Now I just need a new seal and to repack the wheel bearing. Yay. Thanks for the input fellows.

If I could find a shop where I could have them give the car a look over and fix it all up and just do monthly payments, that would be great. Problem is, most shops I've ever encountered or talked to want the money up front or in one payment after labor is complete. Problem is-and I have a buddy who used to have his own shop that used to tell me a lot-shops that are flexible tend to get burned by more customers than not. There's a place here in Oak Harbor run by a friend of my buddy...Taz Auto, the guy has had several people try to rip him off so he isn't flexible anymore unless he knows you. This sucks in general since I still need to replace the windshield, replace the front passenger steering knuckle, replace the 4WD actuator, and now I have a hub assembly to worry about. And yes, I am driving the car as is...and yes, I can hear the damage being done...it's a "rock and a hard place" situation. I have no other means of transportation save for a '68 F100 that needs brakes bled and the steering column worked on...or maybe it's the coupler or gearbox.

The cotter pin was put on all wheels last time and put back on this wheel as well. I'll admit, my buddy that did it tends to "redneck" things, but I don't know what happened. If I take my car to a shop, I'm looking at parts costs plus almost $100 in labor an hour. That's why I didn't go to a shop the first time. The other wheels are fine, but I believe this one is the one he didn't replace the bearing on. Still...agreed...a crappy situation.

1992 Subaru Loyale 4x4 (push button) 5spd Here's the issue. I had my wheel bearings replaced a few months back and I figured I was good to go. About a month ago there was noise starting to come from the rear passenger tire area. About a week ago I was going down the local highway at 55mph and the noise was worse and worse...to the point that the wheel came off and the axle kissed the pavement. Sparks flew for several feet. My buddy put the tire back on, told me the hub was shot. He tightened the spindle nut really really tight and said dont go out of town. Stay local for a bit. Drive as less as possible. There is a grinding noise that fluctuates and if I drive long enough, the rim gets really hot and smells the same. Any ideas here? Obviously something is rubbing really wrong.