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BlackLight

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    Subaru Libero -85

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Oh, and maybe this clear things up about the clutch.


    me7w.jpg

     

    About the engine problem.

     

    As the distributor seem sensitive to moisture, I haven't been able to start it and make further tests.
     

    However, as logic tests seem fruitless, I have to shoot into the dark in order to find anything that makes the problem better or worse, and

    thereafter act.

    The car's engine EF10 doesn't have a PCV valve as most of the other Subaru's of it's time. It has a reed valve in the valve rocker cover which

    is incorporated with an oil separator, due to the fact that the cover doesn't have an inner splash plate to separate the oil from the gases and

    atmosphere inside the engine.

    Just a long shot, but what would happen if this reed valve failed?
    The hose from the rocker cover goes directly to the dirty side of the air cleaner, and I suppose that Subaru intended to incorporate a PCV valve

    instead of the current solution, though I have no idea on how to fix this without major crafting on the cover itself.

     

    Ideas?

     

    Oh, and happy new year! :)

    //Magnus.

    Subaru Libero -85

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Well, today I disabled the EGR-valve by removing and plugging up it's vacuum hose. It didn't do anything for the engine running characteristics. :/
    My plan now is just to add some gearbox fluid, and then drive home (55 metric miles), and then I'll fix up an other engine and gearbox which I have

    laying around. I also have a spare clutch which I'm going to install as well.
    I have a Justy that "just" needs a new (read "used") propeller shaft, then it's good to go, so I won't be Subbie-less. :P

    Subaru Libero -85

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Hi all.

     

    I got the clutch working today! :D
    I tried to use the grease nipple, but it popped put under the pressure. :/ I used penetrating oil and rocked the lever back and forth until it returned by itself.

    I couldn't use the propane torch, cause the DIY-garage is also a gas station (=bad...)
    Anyhow, the clutch is brought back by the force of the diaphragm springs on the clutch disc cover, and the return spring outside. (Not pictured in the Paint-mock up above.)
    May post a movie later with me driving for a while. ;)

    Haven't been able to access the engine bay as of yet, but I will soon enough. :)

    Subaru Libero -85

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Nice. I'll try and get started on the clutch ASAP today. :)

     

    Carb:

    Actually, the carb is quite easy to access, but not remove from the engine. Pic: http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/5997/sg5r.jpg
    To remove the carb, I'll need either 90 deg screwdrivers, or a VERY flat 12mm wrench, The latter option also means I need to drain

    the coolant from the engine (same as Justy carbs).

    Gonna remove and inspect the EGR valve and try to disable it to see wether it makes a difference or not.

     

    //Magnus.

    Subaru Libero -85

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Subaru Libero -85

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Hi all.

    Thanks for replies. I appearently don't have the pic's of the carb from the workshop manual on the web, and now I'm on my cellphones internet, so... Pic's is gonna have to wait.

     

    The pivot shaft of the clutch changes a front-back action into a right-left action, since the engine is turned on it's side.

    The shaft doesn't have a bearing, and thus, it rests in the bellhousing material. Because of road-salt and such, and due to the location of the shaft,

    it is not impropable that rust has made it's wat into the bore, and it has finally siezed.

     

    Good idea?

     

    //Magnus

    Subaru Libero -85

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Hi all.

     

    My name is Magnus and I live in the middle of Sweden.

    I have a 1985 Subaru Libero (called Columbuss in scandinavia) and I'm having two major problems with it.

     

    Most urgent one:

    The clutch is stuck in it's pressed stage (engine and transmission not connected). This has happend before, and it's not the wire. 

    It's the shaft that pivots the clutch release fork inside the bellhousing that is stuck. Last time, I sloved it by drilling a hole into the

    bellhousing, heating with a welding torch and thereafter spraying penetratig oil into the hole as i rocked the release lever on the outside

    until the clutch operated to satisfaction.

    After that was done, I punched a grease-nipple into the hole, partly to seal the hole, but also to allow one to lube the shaft if the problem

    ever were to reoccur in the future.

    Now, the shaft is stuck again and it's negative degrees here (c-grade) which complicates things. I don't have access to a garage, just an

    electrical socket and my toolbox.

    My plan is to get a propane torch, heat the bellhousing again, rock the lever and then pump grease in through the nipple, all while the

    aluminium is still hot. Repeating this a couple of times should fix the problem for a time long enough to move the car to my home (about 55 metric miles).

     

    Is this a good plan?

    The less-urgent one:

    The car loses power at 30-40% gas, tugs and then hesitates up to speed.

    I've done most checks that many experienced mechanics have come up with, but still have some things to check:

    -What's the symptoms on the engines vacuum-reading if the EGR-system works improperly?

    -The carburetor is a Hitachi HCK-34, a side draft type, that no one ever seem to have heard of. It seems custom built to fit just this

    specific car model. Does anyone have experience of a carb that uses a twin-atmospheric pressure system?

    (Pic from workshop manual available upon request.)

     

    Thanks in advance.

     

    //Magnus.

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