legacy93wagon
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Posts posted by legacy93wagon
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2 minutes ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
vacuum gauge testing can sometimes be helpful - you can find lots of info and videos on-line how to use it. Often a free loaner from a parts store. clogged exhaust, burned valves, etc. can sometimes be found with it.
check timing, if it's jumped a tooth, that could kill power.
bad knock sensors sometimes won't throw a code, they will kill power as the timing is severely retarded. one of the few parts where cheap aftermarket seem to work fine for people.
try a battery reset for the ECU and see how the car runs better IMMEDIATELY afterwards. If it is just as bad, you're probably looking for something physical, if it runs better, you probably have a sensor or its wiring bad somewhere.
Thanks,
You remind me, worth mention, No Exhaust from just before the cat . Car has not had a cat in three years either :0P
Timing belt is exposed as I run this car, ( replace it often out of paranoia one winter, then one summer and they look rough up here) Will take a look at it when I hike back to the car.
Thanks again for the response and looking forward to more thoughts and ideas as those interested have them
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Here it is dead of winter in the interior of Alaska, and I am having some issues with my loved 93 legacy ( my normal winter ride)
So if you have interest, time, and the heart to take a look and think with me I would be thankful.
Recently Regardless of temperature -10f to 28f she will not go anywhere under acceleration, jump kind of bog down and sputter. She will Rev up out of gear, but in gear she sputters pops and sounds like an old man trying to breath. If due to flat surface / down hill she can get up to speed without load and get rpms up in gear it does better, but the next hill still puts me coughing and weazing on the shoulder at 1-3 mph.
Some basic info.
5w30 full synthetic ( full syn needed for my temps in winter)
coolant level full at 70% mix ( we saw -58 last winter strong mix needed)
trans in vehicle about 10k miles with about 60k total miles on trans.
ignition coil, plugs, and wires replaced within last three years and maybe 15k miles
Here is a video of the symptoms when they are mild: https://youtu.be/2g5ZnoW610o
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So since a quick search revelaed nothing on " tow bar" figured it was OK to start a thread. Figured with plenty of friend's who have trucks, and genrally doing all sorts of stupid things it would be a good idea to have tow bars on my subarus. Seems like it would make it a lot easier to get home if a buddy with a super duty could just hook up and tow me home VS calling a tow. ( at 300 miles between major towns tows get expensive)
So the question :
Anyone use a harbor freight tow bar on their Subaru ?
I plan to use one on my 1993 2.2 legacy and my 1998 subaru outback legacy.
This is the product I am looking at:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-capacity-adjustable-tow-bar-94696.html
Thanks for looking and contributing. ( open thread so long as relatively on topic its good :0D )
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Enjoyed your pixs from trip to Alaska. With the 4 spare tires/wheels, CB antenna on roof, and small trailer totally filled up, you looked very prepared to take on Alaska, and the rest of the world. With the bullet proof 2.2 motor in your '93, you could be assured the Subie would get there and back.
On the other hand the '98 comes inherent with the 2.5 with bad head gasket issue. However, if the HGs, are swapped out before over heating damages the motor, it can be a very reliable motor. I was fortunate enough to do just that, and with 233K miles on the odo, my 2.5 is running strong and reliable after swapping out HGs at about 190K miles. Would recommend using Subaru OEM replacement head gaskets. Subaru has improved the HG design for better reliability over the years.
evidently, proper prep of the head surface helps a lot. Milling or 'lapping' on plate glass.
here's some info from fel-pro (of course, they want to sell you their gasket) about failures; http://www.felpro-only.com/blog/sealing-subaru-2-5l-engines/
Don't have a place to work yet, and in break up there is nothing but mud and ice. So bit the bullet and took it to a locally recommended subaru mechanic. $1700 later I have it back but smell coolant burning on the 50mile drive home :0/ will keep you all updated.
Also have some awesome Northern light photos to share when my card reader comes in the mail :0D
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Just for fun Update, Tried the same trip with my 98 / ej25, ended in head gasket failure and a u haul tow into Alaska :0P If anyone lurking has a end all Brand for the 2.5 l I would be thankful to know the brand so as to avoid this job a second time ( My old plans for ej22 swap may be off due to cost of getting good JDM shipped up here)
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Last little bit of Alaska from my trip.
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end of BC, the Yukon and first bit of AK
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So in short this is a road trip thread, and a thank you to all the forum members who have helped me keep this car alive, and prepare for this trip.
She has gone from Montana to Arkansas to kentucky, To california, then to Washington, and most recently from washington to Alaska!
Please note I only got pictures from Cali to Alaska , and neglected to take pictures from Cali to to wash while in my 98, ( this bit to address the trolls and knit pickers)
Again. Thanks to all for the help I have been given keeping this car alive,
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Turn/stop use the same side of the bulb so yes that wiring setup is correct.
pre 95 they are not shared :0(
They sell trailer light converter boxes for wiring cars with seperate brake and turn bulbs into a combined brake/turn trailer output. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-74209-Trailer-Converter/dp/B0008G1NNY
There's powered and non powered ones. The powered ones cost more and require an extra fused wire run direct from the battery, but they isolate the trailers wiring from the car, so if something shorts out on the trailer it doesn't burn up the lighting circuits in you car. The non-powered ones work fine for the most part but you are adding the electrical load of however many bulbs are on the trailer onto your cars lighting circuits. They are simpler to wire in.
awesome and thank you
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Hello,
I am trying to hook up a 4 pin trailer light kit to my 93 Subaru legacy.
I have Probed out:
Break light
Turn indicator ( both sides)
and Running lights.
The questions I have ( and have searched for) are :
-The 4 pin setup lists the break and turn signals as the same single connection, but when I probe the plugs to the tail lights, The brake light and the turn signal wires are not on together for either function. How would one go about wiring this ?
( right now I have it wired for running lights and turn signals)
-Is there a wiring harness somewhere further back I should be tapping into vs right at the tail lights ?
The Wiring kit I have simply says :
" Wiring guide
Green wire to right turn / stop
Yellow wire to left turn / stop
Brown wire to tail lights
White Ground"
Thanks for any help with the issue directly or being pointed to a thread video or image I was not aware of,
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So To bring the thread closure. The car had a bad cam seal. Replaced cam seals, Timing belt, drive belts and Radiator and heater core hoses ( my dumb ** forgot to put in the block heater while I had the coolant drained) put about 600 miles on it since. my old happy car is back.
Thanks again for all the help, and if someone stumbles onto this thread in the future and needs help. Let me know I will see what I can remember and offer :0)
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Before I start this one THANK YOU to all helping me through this.
Just wanting to make very sure I have the cams in the correct position.
passenger side cams: on the car.
Driver side cams: shown off the car in intended / current position
Does this look right ? the driver side ones seem wrong to me :0/
Thanks again for any help / feed back!
Edit: just found this :
is it correct ? 
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If the radiator hoses are due for replacement, then so are the other handful of coolant bypass hoses and heater hoses.
ThANKS! AND THAT LUMBER RACK HAS ME EXCITED !
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The chips on the pulleys are benign, If they are not cracked I wouldn't replace. If you want to, a junk yard would be your best option.
I've never had to use a puller to get them off.
You are replacing the idlers, right?
Remove oil pump and tighten screws on back if loose.
Don't tighten the valve covers until after you have tightened your sprockets. A 1" open end will fit the flats on the cams to hold them.
Careful of torque on cam bolts, the specs are very light.
I know where the plug goes, but not enough knowledge to tell you where it goes w/o looking at an engine.
Am sure someone will chime in here.
Continue to take your time and all will be well.
O.
Thanks so much:0)
How did you get the sprockets off yourself ? I was able to just pull the driver side off, but the passenger is proving difficult. Yes I will be replacing the idlers as well. I got the timing belt kit :0)
Again thanks,
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Update time:
-Radiator out , will be replacing upper and lower hoses + adding aftermarket trans cooler when it goes back in.
-Drive belts and crank pulley out, will be replacing all drive belts on re assemble
-Driver side timing cover and gears removed, bottom cam seal visibly out of place. new timing belt on hand as well as tension-er and
*** my unskilled hand / pulley puller chipped both Passenger side timing gears they will need replaced. Anyone have those part numbers? and link to correct tool to remove them?
I tried to use this: http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-pulley-puller-66868.html
Should I have used these: http://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-4-pc-69104.html
-Got a block heater for this car and would love any pointers on where the dang thing goes, guessing not to many of these live in the interior of Alaska like this one will next year so hard for me to find that info.
-Also leaking oil at power steering pump. That will be a later job I think.
Last little bit would be . . . any suggestions for a mechanic to do an R & R if I foul this thing up and end up doing a full JDM swap.
Thanks for reading and thanks for helping so much !
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Excellent description, this is easy:
1. replace the leaking $7 cam seal
2. read the codes for the check engine light.
The oil light is nearly pointless on these engines - it doesn't really come on until you've got like 1 quart or less in the engine and things are already toast.
The check engine light probably isn't even related - read the code first.
Ideally you replace the entire timing belt kit, 4 cam seals, reseal the oil pump while it's all apart. Gates kits on amazon are reasonably priced for all timing bits.
Or sure, have at it and install an EJ22, great engines.
Thanks so much :0) at $500 for a JDM ej22 and my love for the 2.2 over the 2.5 I just might.
But do like the seals job a bit better. ( youtube) :0D
Most of the kits come with the water pump. If this a need ? Thinking might as well replace radiator hoses while I'm in there . . .
and another kit I looked at : http://smile.amazon.com/Evergreen-TBK277AWPT-Subaru-Legacy-Outback/dp/B007P72AZE/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1446610295&vehicle=1998-13-64-39--1-6-6-198-121-1-1-421--3-0&sr=1-2&ymm=1998%3Asubaru%3Alegacy&keywords=timing+belt+kit
Evergreen kit has the seals too. Reviews decent on both. . . Thoughts ?
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You can also go down to Autozone or some other parts store and they should be able to read your cel and give you the code for it.
In California it is against the law for anything but a licensed mechanic to run the codes for a client. Some special interest lobbying on that one I'm sure. :0(
I can / will be buying my own reader ( on my 93 it was easy to jumper and read the flashes)
thanks for pointing me at that though :0)
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I'd take off the covers. May be just front cam seals.
O.
Sorry for being a newb,
Q: if it was a seal, would I get the low oil pressure light as well as check engine, or prior? That is what made me assume major badness. that I never got oil pressure light first.
But I got only the check engine light. and NOT the low oil :0/
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Hello,
At work right now so my full research will start when I get home, but figured it would be nice to have some pointers of where to look in the forum ( keywords, etc) and maybe where to look on my car to better assist my research phase.
**my 1998 subaru Outback 2.5l auto with about 130k miles popped check engine light.
-Drove it about 12 miles, checked fluids ( oil, Brake fluid, trans , coolant ) all looked good.
- pulled battery Cable to try and reset light in case it was a one time thing.
-Reconnected battery, Started car , idled until temp guage started reading, still check engine light.
-Turned off car fluid check again . . . oil was way low, looked under car, 0.5 + quarts dumped right under the car. seemed to be coming from Driver side left of engine above the lower Radiator hose connection behind the plastic cover that is behind the belts.
Wondering if it ends up being a big issue if swapping from the 2.5 to the 2.2 is a common thing ?
The research and Adventure now begins!
Any thoughts, questions or pointers would be awesome. ( will be doing a photo bucket account or the like to get plenty
of photos flowing :0)
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Hey thanks for the heads up on that! I can see sensor and it is frayed I moved it so not touching any metal[at least for now].Avg. price of coil? Do you know? and good spark plugs and wire set? I remember reading somewhere not to get the "fancy" plugs etc.
If you watch amazon coil can be had for 30-50 USD :0D and it is very easy to replace.
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Bush Ride needing Diag assist. 93 legacy, ej22
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
CTS is only a $9 part so Good place to start !
Don't have tools for Compression test, 108 miles for parts store :0/ Pulled one plug at a time during idle. At idle anyways it is running on all 4.
Will try the CTS unplug When I get back to the vehicle ( replaced it 2016)
On OBD 1 how would one check for codes ? Thanks
If air filter is removed completely behavior is the same. Cleaned K&N type. If I disconnect MAS it dies completely ( any leads for economical replacement to test ? )
Thanks for all the Advice, will Post back once I have given the suggested remaining checks a go !