mossgreen
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Posts posted by mossgreen
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Right on, thanks guys.
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Fuses are good. I only have a 12v testing light at the moment, if I remove the backing plate and put my ear up to it while someone turns the ignition on I should be able to hear/not hear it, Poor mans diagnostic. Anything else?
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Hi, my friend has got a 96 Lego that turns over but won't start. I'm new to working on an ej22 but proficient at ea81's. I stopped by to look at it earlier today and didn't hear the fuel pump at all so I pulled the fuel line right where it leads into the filter and turned it over. No fuel was being poured into the glass I had placed there. At any rate, what should my next steps be to further test, thanks.
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Thank you, much appreciated. A pair of vise grips and a socket should suffice for the one with windshield in.
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If anyone has pictures or an in depth describtion of an ea81 dash removal that would be a great help. To my knowledge there are the bolts under the defrost vents and some on the side? Are these all that need to be removed in order to remove the dash pad? Thanks.
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3rd igniter module is the charm, thanks for the help guys.
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The first thing I did was replace thr coil wire. .. Though the second time I did the - side coil test it didnt have a stong pulse it just pretty much turned the light to really dim/ almost off... My question now is what should the pulse look like?
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The first thing I did was replace thr coil wire. ..
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Alrighty sounds good, I'll either just buy the part or find an ea81 disty at the junk yard and see what happens....
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The module in the dizy would effect the spark from the coil?
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This has been my dianosis so far. .. car stopped stopped running but turned over, pulled a plug and held it with plyers againts the block and no spark, pulled the coil wire from distributor and no spark. Put the 12v test light to positive side of the coil and there was light with igntion on, hooked it onto the negative side while turning the engine and it pulsed with the sound of the turning engine, pulled the fuel line from where it meets the carb, drained excess gas into a jar, placed the line into a baby jar resting on the block and turned the engine over a few times while giving it a little gas, jar was half full... I had already replaced the plugs and wires (ngk) a few weeks ago... so then I replaced the coil, and replaced the linkable fuses but still nothing...
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Yea man, I had the key for all of 5 minutes before the old devils lettuce kicked into high gear and POOF .... gone.
TRIPPIN OWIT.
How'd you bust up your ignition functionally?
As you can tell I forgot my old log in whatnot and I initially signed back up when I was "SURE" the mossgreen wagon was mine. Now I've got the brat... so goes it.
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Pete, (greenly) let me know when your free man so I can use somma that expertise you got growin' in that beard... There will surely be some beer waiting around.
-Thanks for all the replies guy's, I'll get it done one way or another. ..
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Yup pete, it's your old brat, I got it offa evan (couldn't resist)... I know you only changed the door lock cylinders but those have key code located somewhere on there? I tried shootin' you a txt prior to this post with this dilemma. ..
-Sam
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Thanks for the reply, the two locksmith s in my area saidit woild be near Iimpossible to impression on my car.... at somewhat of a loss here...
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So, I managed to loose the key for my 86' brat... The lock cylinder s we're replaced (so I can't pull the number for a new key to be made) and no dealer so far can make a key that works. I ended up taking off the plastic under the streering column and removing the two backing screws on the ignition so I can just start it with a flat head, that worked just fine and she fired right up.... but now the steering wheel is locked and I can't seem to un-lock the thing... What do I do? Thanks.
Ea81 RPM dive.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I've got a '85 ea81 hatch that has a drastic rpm dive from 4-6 grand in 3rd gear only. It's only got 127k and sat for 20 years. I've changed the plugs, cap, wires, disty, front main seal, and ended up doing a weber swap thinking the hitachi was the problem, per usual, but it still has the rpm dive... I'm totally stumped. I drained the gas and changed the fuel lines and filters initially. It has full power through every other spot. Any ideas? Thanks.