JC20

This morning i took voltage readings from the all the pins on the ECU which are grounds. Air Flow sensor B48 Pin 10 0.8v Throttle sensor B58 Pin 1 0.8v GND (sensors) B48 Pin 21 0.8v GND ( Control systems) B48 Pin 11 0.8v GND ( Control systems) B48 Pin 22 0.8v GND (Injectors) F47 Pin 24 43.9 Mv GND (Injectors) F47 PIn 25 43.4 Mv GND (Igniton system) F47 Pin 15 43 Mv GND (Power Supply ) F47 Pin 14 44.4Mv I think all the grounds that are showing voltage must share a common ground which is B 48 Pin 21. What i don't understand how come the grounds on B47 are showing good values? I already cleaned the ground strap attached to the intake manifold.

I still haven't been able to solve my issue; I'm going through and checking the sensor. Hoping for some opinions on what could be wrong. I'm not sure why so many voltage readings are off; i checked them multiple times but i end up with the same numbers. Now im wondering if the ECU is bad.The original Mass air flow sensor was giving weird readings; so i purchased a new one. However the new one is still giving voltages that are off. I'm getting to many volts at idle and also the ground wire has voltage. B 48: 8 Power supply: ignition on: 13.1v Engine on: 14.06v FSM: Igniton on 10-13v Engine on 13-14v B 48: 9 Signal: ignition on: 1.1v Engine on: 1.6v FSM: Ignition on 0 - 0.3 v Engine on 0.8 -1.2 v B 48: 10 Ground: ignition on 0.8v Engine on : 0.8v FSM Ignition on 0v Engine on 0v The water temp sensor itself seems to be working fine. I replaced it a couple of months ago and the resistance values seem to be withing spec. However, I'm getting to many volts at the water temp sensor wire/. Cold: 2.97k ohms FSM 2.0 - 3.0 Ohms Warm 0.420 k ohms FSM 0.3 -0.4 Ohms B 48: 7 Water temp sensor: Ignition on 1.9v Engine on 1.9 FSM Ignition on 0.7v -1v Engine on 0.7v -1v * After warm up

I was wondering anyone is using mt2500 scanner with there obd1 ecu? I know its outdated but i was reading that it will work if you have the right cartridge and connector. Looking for reviews or experiences. There plenty for sake on ebay and prices seem resonable.

I was wondering anyone is using mt2500 scanner with there obd1 ecu? I know its outdated but i was reading that it will work if you have the right cartridge and connector. Looking for reviews or experiences. There plenty for sake on ebay and prices seem resonable.

Did the fuel pressure test ,and I'm getting 26 psi at idle with vacuum line on and 36 with ot off.Definitely did not expect that. I'm thinking the fuel preasure regulator or fuel pump are bad.Fuel tank,lines and filter are new. The gauge is a rental from auto zone so it could be bad. EDIT i was looking at the wrong fuel pressure values i had the turbo values. 26 and 36 are the correct values for a naturally aspirated ej22

I woke early this morning to try get some data before work. This was my first time using Evoscan not quite sure what all the number mean. I need to more reading. I have ECU id 733263, and I used SSMI 7332xx. The thing that caught my eye were value for the 02 sensor. For whatever reason i'm only getting 02 average. While the engine between 700 and 1700 rpm the 02 average is 0 the value began to change over 1800 rpm and im getting 322.2656. I took a snap shot of my log but If anyone is willing to take look at the whole log let me know i can always email it. I will try to get fuel pressure test tonight. log 1.bmp

Yeah, I see the build up around the threads. There also a bit oil around the threads which can mean a host of other problems. Learning something new everyday I just got my evoscan cable from new zealand; but I haven't had a chance to do anything with it. I will try doing some logging this weekend. The original MAF that came out of the vehicle was throwing a code; So i pulled another one from the pick in pull. Also it threw purge solenoid code; but i replaced it with one from pick and pull. Injector are original Fuel pump is a stock vanagon bosch pump which from everything i read it makes more than enough pressure. The fuel pressure regulator is also original to the engine. Thanks for everyone's help.

I pulled plugs 1 and 4 this evening. However, I can't say I see anything out of the ordinary. Maybe a bit darker than they should be. I was reading they should be brownish/grayish. I was going to try to check maf but multimenter isn't working just my luck. The maf came out of the junkyard although it has not thrown any codes. I was looking at the oem maf it's well over 200 dollars. Would it be wise to buy an aftermarket one? Rock auto shows many different choices. I've double and triple check the routing of the hoses and everything is just like the diagram. Pulled engine from junkyard and I'm going look at the air filter/to make sure it's good to go.

1) Engine is out of 1994 subaru legacy 1a) The ecu the came with the engine its the original 2) The cat is airtek D- 280-97 5800 series http://arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/eo/D-428-3.pdf There is an executive order allowing the cat to be run ran with the engine. It was provided with in a kit from a company called Kennedy Engineering 3) Coil 4) Before i installed the engine I did the timing belt. Replaced plugs with NGK (9126) FX31 Wire Set and plugs with NGK (2756) BKR6E-11. Oil was done and filter. . Fuel filter is also new. Air filter is also new. 5) Nothing has been modified except for the exhaust head is not stock it come from Kennedy Engineering. 7) I attached a diagram which how the how everything routed

I have an ej22 Obd1 in a 85 vanagon. Today was my first attempt at smogging the van and It failed. The HC and CO were above the limit. Before i installed the engine i did the timing belt purchased a non oem o2 sensor and replace the water temp sensor with one from o'reilly's. The check engine light is not on. I was hoping someone could help me out and point me in the right direction on making the proper fix. ThankYou

I checked continuity red-green and blue wire and they both are ok. I've gone back to several times to the old igniter and the problem returns. I will keep looking to see if there a problem. However i'm fighting a high idle engine likes to idle 900 to1000 rpms.

Just an update I figured the ignitor was bad because the coil check out. I'm not sure what i did but screwing into the the firewall must damage it. I went into pick an pull and pulled one 20 dollars.

This morning i decided to check the coil. I started the engine and disconnected the spark plug wire from cylinder 1+2 and the engine kept running. When I disconnected 3+4 ,the engine would die immediately. I believe that means 1+2 are not firing. I checked the primary resistance 1+2 = 00.8 ohms 2+3=00.8 ohms secondary resistance 1+2 19.9 ohms 3+4 19.8 ohms. I have a diamond coil.

I didn't replace the gasket, but it's practically new i cleaned up and replaced the all gaskets when i cleaned up the intake manifold a couple of months ago. The manual also calls for 15-18 ft pounds. The screws on the throttle body don't look like they moved they still have paint marks from the factory. I'm going to start fresh today and look over my work.

When I checked the resistance at terminal 1&2, i got 0 ohms at closed throttle and OL at open. I also found another test online where you back prove terminal 2&4 with ignition on. Throttle closed i have 4.80 volts and open .930 The voltage should vary .5 to 1.0 volt at closed throttle and 4.5 to 5.0 volts wide open throttle. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/Haynes/tps.jpg

So i'm complete newb when it comes to all this but this is reason bought the van and did the swap. I want to learn. I check the TPS sensor at terminal 2&3 and I have 9.75 ohms at open and closed throttle. Then i check it on 2&4 and i have 9.34 ohms at closed throttle and 2.06 at open. From my understanding the TPS sensor might be bad. Also i checked the plugs and they all looked good. Is it possible that i could have damaged the ignitor when i screwed it into the firewall? If so is there a way to check the ignitor?

I recently swapped an ej22 obdi into an 85 westy. Today i removed the throttle body because i had to mount the ignitor to the firewall. I removed the four bolts and moved it to side. After, I put everything back together and started engine it idled real rough. It holds idle at 900 rmp but shakes way to much. Now i'm trying to figure out what I did. I double checked the vacuum connection but nothing was lose. I torque the bolts down to 17 ft pounds. The computer isn't throwing any codes. Any help is appreciated.

I finish my conversion within the last month an ej22 out of 94 legacy into a 85 westy. Now I’m getting around to testing it on the freeway. I’ve been getting an intermittent check engine light. Sometimes it will come on for five or ten minutes and then shut off. Other times it will come on and stay on, but when I shut the engine down and preceded to plug in the green connectors it won’t throw any codes. However, when I plug the black connectors it throws out code 24 Iac valve +32 02 sensor. I also, started driving around with the green connectors just to see what would happen and it has thrown-out the code 32 but I haven’t seen code 24 yet. The 02 sensor is brand new , and I cleaned out the IAC before I began the conversion. As of right now, the engine idles and accelerates with no problem. I checked all the hoses and 02 sensor connection and everything seem to be ok. Not sure what to make of the problem; and I wanted to get some ideas on how to go about diagnosing the problem. Thank you This is 02 sensor i purchased http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5M12I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed an ej22 out of 1994 subaru legacy into 1985 vanagon. When i first started the engine, It would run very rough the idle was all over the place and eventually the engine would die. I plugged in the green connectors and it gave me me a code 23 (Air flow meter or circuit). I decided to disconnect the maf sensor to see what would happened and engine now idles a lot better and does not die. All this makes me assume that maf sensor is bad. I plan on going to the junkyard to pull maf, but wanted to know what year would work. My sensor is currently black and made out of plastic. Also i wanted to know if my thinking is correct? Thank you

So I pulled the pin rotated the engine and left side hash mark is still off. I figure this still ok?

Could someone please take a look at my timing marks in order to verify.I think left side (driver side) is just a touch off,but I can't seem to get it any closer without moving the other two. Any suggestions? Or is this good? Thanks

The shortend oil pan is from burley motorsports and its going to into 85 vanagon. http://burleysmotorsports.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=46 Is ok to turn the engine upside down? It would make my life a whole lot easier if i could. Also, I was planning on using permatex anaerobic; but i see everyone recommends ultra gray. Any objections to the anaerobic? Any recommendation on the torque sequence for the bolts? This is my first time doing this; so i am trying to get all my ducks in a row. Thanks.

My ej22 is on an engine stand; and I would like to turn it upside down to install a shorten oil pan is safe to do so? Keep in mind all fluids have been drained? Most instructions i have seen show the the RTV on the oil pan is ok to put it on the engine block instead? I feel like it would much easier to install oil pan that way. Thank You.

The only slack I have is between the crank and the driver side cam. I'm a bit concern about the crankshaft mark because it's a bit to the left; and I read somewhere that the when you pull pin sometimes things will shift. Do the marks have to be dead on?

I was hoping someone would comment on my timing marks. I have not pulled the pin out of the timing belt tensioner; and I believe the crankshaft mark will move slightly to the right when i do. However, I'm hoping to get some comments on the subject from more knowledgeable sources. Thank you.