tbolt1003

I picked up my 95 Impreza wagon (3) years ago with only 85,000 miles and aside from maintenance issues which were neglected by the previous owner, the car is a joy to drive each day. I've done the entire timing belt kit, new valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, cam and crank seals and water pump. More recent service were HLA's. I put a set of Dunlop WinterMaxx snows on her and I'm amazed at where this car can go. I thought my Expedition was decent in snow...the Impreza puts the truck to shame. I'd say you found a decent little car there. Keep up on the maintenance and you'll be rewarded with a long lasting car. As lmdew mentioned, 300k isn't an unrealistic number. The early 2.2 engines are bulletproof, from what others have said.

Yeah, it is kinda amusing...LOL. Thanks again for your help, Fairtax!!

You are truly amazing individuals. This website rocks!!! I located a green connector, but not a black one. I unplugged the green connector and no more flashing CEL light!!! Thank you all, so much, for the help. Guess the "glitch" I was told about isn't true afterall.

Thanks for the replies. I'll look at those plugs when I have a chance. I am fairly certain this is an OBD1 car, as I remember my service station say that the newer code readers won't work on my Impreza due to the OBD conflict. The car runs strong and just got me up a driveway with a fresh 14" of snow. Amazing what this little car can do with a set of snow tires.

Hi all. I've owned my 95 Impreza wagon for about 3 years now and love the car. She has the 2.2 and auto trans. I inherited the car and, aside from some regular maintenance items which had been neglected, she runs like a champ. When I got the car, the CEL was flashing at a rapid pace, about 3 flashes/second. I had it scanned, but nothing came back. I've been told this is a very common thing with the early Imprezas, some glitch with the computer that has absolutely no effect on the car whatsoever. I've learned to live with the flashing light. Even the service center I take the car to for annual inspection passes the car because they are aware of this glitch and know there is nothing wrong with the car. Now, after all this time, my curiosity is getting the best of me. Does anyone know what this glitch is? If I remove the bulb so I don't see it flashing all the time, will not having the bulb in the circuit affect anything? Like I said, I'm used to the bulb flashing constantly, just a little curious. Thanks!!

I don't have any experience with those brands. What type of performance are you looking to get from the tires? If youre after a basic all-season without breaking the bank, my better half has the Kelly Explorer Plus on her Forester and she really likes them. She does alot of driving in all types of weather and she's never complained about losing traction or feeling unsafe. Kelly's slogan holds true in this case - "A good deal on a great tire."

Did your brake light in the instrument cluster happen to come on once the car was running? I just replaced the alternator in my '95 Impreza a few weeks ago and the brake light coming on was one of the tell-tale signs I read about that the alternator was bad. When the car is running, what voltage are you getting at both the battery and the stud on the alternator? Should be up around 14.2V.

I had similar electrical issues with my '95 Impreza before the alternator bit the dust. Like you, car started fine in the cold weather, everything worked normally. It was when I applied my brakes that I noticed my headlights dimmed, wipers sslowed down. Finally, the battery light in my instrument cluster came on, alerting me to an issue. I was only getting 11.5V out of the alternator and at the battery posts. The great guys on here directed me to a bad alternator. I replaced it and all my problems are gone. Check your grounds and make sure they are nice amd tight and not corroded. I've seen a simple poor ground cause all sorts of goofy things to happen.

I just had a set of Dunlop's new WinterMaxx snow/ice tires installed on my Impreza and all I can say is "Wow!!!". These things are incredible in all conditions from ice covered roads to 12" of unplowed snow to rain to 70 degree temps. I looked at some of the higher priced winter tires, but the initial reviews on the WinterMaxx sold me and I couldn't be happier with them.

I got the new alternator installed last night in about 5 minutes. Everything is back to normal. The battery and brake lights in the dash cluster are out and I'm getting a steady 14.5V across the board at the battery and alternator post. Thanks again, everyone, for your help!!!

Thanks for all the help! "New" alternator ordered and should have it by the end of the day. Once I get it installed, I'll report my results and voltages.

$80? Wow, that's a deal. I just pulled the alternator out of the car. Under 5 minutes to remove it. Hopefully the replacement goes in just as easily.

I connected the negative lead of the voltmeter to the (-) terminal of the battery. Positive lead of meter to (+) post of battery, I get 11.5V with the engine running. Moved the (+) meter lead to the alternator post and get the same 11.5V. Terminals are nice and tight. Looks like I'm replacing an alternator on the coldest night in 20 years here in PA tomorrow. Yikes!! I'll double check the brake fluid level. The car was inspected (3) months ago and had the brakes done as well as the brake fluid flushed. Thanks for the replies so far. This website rocks!!!

Engine quit running

Hi all!! While driving earlier (95 Impreza L wagon, 2.2), the battery light and brake light in the instrument cluster came on suddenly. My Impreza seemed to be running fine, although the wipers did seem to be going slightly slower than usual. The brakes work fine. When I got home a few minutes later, I shut the car off and tried to restart it. It started fine. I put a volt meter on the battery posts with the engine running and I was only getting 11.5V. I then put the (+) lead on the alternator post and I was still only getting 11.5V. I turned the headlights off and the voltage moved up to 11.7V. If I revved the engine , the voltage stayed at 11.5-11.7. My battery was brand new about 2 months ago (Interstate). If I pull my emergency brake, the Brake light in the instrument cluster gets brighter, like it should when the brake handle is pulled. When I released the parking brake, the brake light dimmed but didn't go out. Is my alternator going bad?

I was thinking about that, as well. If one piece of silicone got loose, what are the chances another will, too. As of today, the engine is still super quiet and runs great. I think I can actually feel it has a bit more giddy-up and go, as well.

*** UPDATE *** I took the passenger side apart again this morning and confirmed that all (4) intakes were, once again, collapsed. I removed the rocker assembly from the engine and took it inside to completely take apart. I was amazed at how easily everything came apart. When I started to look at the ports that feed the rocker arms, they all seemed fine and clear of obstructions. When I took the end cap off that has the oil supply hole, BINGO!!! There was a small piece of black rubber or silicone partially blocking the oil feed hole. I went through the process of cleaning out every single port & hole in the shaft and each rocker arm. The (2) springs were in great shape. I put it all back together with assembly lube, re-primed the intake HLAs, checked the exhausts (which were still solid) and put the assembly back on the car and buttoned it all up. Turned the key and after a few seconds of running rough, the engine smoothed out, but the tick was still there. Determined to fix this today, I took the passenger side all apart again, only this time to find (2) exhaust HLAs collapsed. I took the rocker assembly off the engine again and back inside to my work bench I went. The intake HLAs were still nice and solid. I pulled all (4) exhaust HLAs and re-primed the collapsed ones, as well as went through the process for the (2) solid ones...just to be sure. I remember reading the suggestion to fill the rocker shaft with oil, so I did that this time and went back outside. Reassembled everything, turned the key, and....wait, do you hear that? Hear what? Exactly!!! No more ticking!!! The engine runs so smoothly and it so quiet now, it's hard to believe it's the same engine. I let it idle for about 30 minutes before heading out for the day. After multiple stops and restarts, I'm happy to report the tick is still non-existant. It's also nice to hear that distinct Boxer growl again without a tick-tick-tick overpowering the growl. Thank you, everyone, for your help and input. I would never have gone as far as to disassemble the rocker assembly completely had I not asked for help and it was suggested. USMB has found a member for life in me. Thanks again!!! Now, can anyone make it snow here??? Hehehehe!!!

Thank you, everyone, for your help. In comparing the response from this forum to the other forum I was on, USMB is definitely 100% better in response and helping its fellow members!!

Good information to know. Thank you!

I was wondering about that, as well.

Again, thank you for the detailed description. Guess I know what I'll be doing the day after Christmas. Am I doing any harm to the engine by running it with the compressed HLAs? It runs fine and has tons of power now.

Thank you, all for the excellent and informative responses. This has far exceeded my expectations - this forum has definitely gained a new and happy member!! How difficult are the rocker assemblies to disassemble? At the end of the shaft, there was some type of a clip, while the other end appeared smooth. Do I need a special tool to remove this one clip? And, then the individual rocker assemblies simply slide off the shaft, correct? Again, sorry for all the questions. I'm new to Subaru engines, although I'm certainly enjoying the ease of disassembly and re-assembly they offer. Definitely easier than the V-8 on my truck or any other car I've owned.

When we did all the work in May, we saw one of the screws on the backing plate of the oil pump had worked its way loose. We removed all the screws and applied some type of LocTite to the threads - don't remember exactly what he used, but it's what they use at his shop.

This is the type of response I was hoping for. Thank you for the reply. The oil level is right at the full mark. A friend of mine and I replaced the timing belt, cam and crank seals, water pump, all pulleys and resealed the oil pump around May of this year. The car has been running like a dream. With the returning noise and it being isolated to the intake HLAs, I've been wondering if there was some form of a blockage to the intake oil ports. Considered doing MMO or SeaFoam to the crankcase, but I've heard good and bad about additives.

Aside from my introductory post in the new member section, this is my first real post. I asked this same question on another Subaru forum and basically was laughed at for asking for help. I have a 95 Impreza wagon with the 2.2 and 119k miles. I've owned it for about 3 years. Love the car!! About 2 months ago, we had our first cold night this season with temps dropping to the upper 20's. The day prior, the engine was very quiet with no noises, as it's been for the 3 years I've owned it. The following morning after the cold temps at night, I drove about 2 miles and the engine started making a ticking sound, which I have found out is the HLA's. I researched the issue and pulled the passenger side rocker assembly off, reprimed the (1) intake HLA which was collapsed and reinstalled everything. The noise disappeared, but returned about 2 days later. I pulled the valve cover and found all (4) intake HLA's were now compressed. The exhausts were nice and solid. I went to my Subaru dealer and got (4) new HLA's, replaced all (4) intakes and put her back together. The tick was gone, but reappeared soon thereafter. Yesterday morning, after dealing with the tick for a few weeks, I pulled the passenger side apart again and found all (4) intakes collapsed, while the exhausts were still nice and solid. I reprimed the intakes, blew out the oil feed holes with air and went to put it back together. I thought about this, seeing I'm having a problem with the intake side - I put the known good exhaust HLAs in the intake rockers and put the reprimed intake HLAs into the exhaust rockers. I put it all back together, turned the key, and she fired right up, purring like a kitten. I let the engine idle for about 10 minutes, revving to 2000rpm a few times and the noise was still non-existent. Now, here is where I'm pulling my hair out. About 3 hours after the repair, I left to go run some errands. The engine started fine, no ticking, nice quiet ride to my destination. An hour later when I came back to my car, the tick was back. It was not loud, but you could tell it was there. I drove home, the tick became more noticable and is now roughly as loud as it was yesterday morning before the teardown. I haven't pulled the valve cover off yet to see which HLAs are compressed. The engine runs great, has all sorts of power...just has the annoying tick. Am I overlooking something or is it possible the new HLAs I got from the dealer were defective out of the bag? While cleaning things out, I did notice the oil ports for the exhaust side were draining when I blew air through them. I didn't seem to be getting anything from the intakes. There also doesn't seem to be any ports where the intake HLAs sit for oil to access the top of the rocker, only a small hole in the side of the part of the arm where the HLA sits in. I've read that there may be crud or deposits blocking the ports that feed the intake rockers on the rocker shaft. If this is a possibility, can these be accessed without taking the entire rocker assembly completely apart? I change my oil & filter every 5k and use Pennzoil 5W-30 with a Purolator classic filter. Any thoughts on how to fix this? I'm pulling my hair out. What am I missing? Sorry for being long-winded, I like to be thorough. Thanks in advance for all help!