serrs

Yes, same car. Thanks for your ideas! Holly crap... Today, good report from my brother.. he removed 3 bolts. Then he tightened the remaining 1 bolt tight, it did not hit as he turned the crank, then he put in the next bolt tight and so on. Nothing hits or clunks now. Strange, the tolerance must be really tight. We gave this little weight at first, but it solved our problem! Thanks ocei77!

Thanks for each reply. I can only believe that my time spent answering questions on XDA/Android forums caused some good karma. So to clarify, when all the flexplate-to-TC bolts are finger-tight they don't rub or knock anything. It's only when one is tightened. I had the idea to 1/2 way tighten one, then go 180 degrees and tighten another to make sure it wasn't tilted, but we got bad run/knock there too. We are able to turn crank fine when everything is finger-tight. We are 99% sure timing/belt/valves are good, but 100% sure it's not causing this problem. Garry may have it though! Lower plate seemed to be catching as we were bring the AT in, so we used a thin/flexible sheet of metal to shoehorn the transmission above it. We will have to look hard. We'll also make sure the flexplate and TC are not touching before bolts.

First, we've mated up 4EATs at least 5 times over the last 6 years. We understand some basic things like the Torque Converter can slide out. We've relearned technique (even today) on how to get it slide back in the transmission. That said, I'm 99% sure it is in there fine. (We had a TZ102 on the floor to look at as a reference) The transmission is the original TZ1A2 in my 1999 Outback. My brother and I had it all mated up to the JDM EJ25D. We got all the bolts that connect the flex plate with the TC in place. Then, we tighted one bolt down, and went to turn the crank to get to the next bolt and it stopped (hard). There are 4 bolts, and at 90 degrees the crank stops with a clunk. My brother says we need to swap flex plates, going with the one that was on the old engine. I'm reluctant to believe that is our problem. Are the flex plate bolts hitting something? Has anyone had this problem? Is it obvious that you should keep the flex plate grouped with the transmission? (PS- we tried trimming 3 threads off an extra bolt to see if that would keep the bolt end from hitting something, no joy.) Help? Much appreciated.

Thanks so much! Your information is much appreciated. I found more where the JDM AT came from... it was identified on the JDM engine in white grease pen (I assume from the exporter) BG9 (Japanese Outback?). The "DBA" on the end of the AT would indicate one year older Outback than mine since "D" is one year before "E". The engine also had a coil pack that is the same as a 1998 Imprezza RS. Anyway thanks, I'll count teeth eventually so I know what I'm trying to sell.

From reading this forum and a few others, I thought I knew that I had a Phase 1 setup on my 1999 Outback. It is DOHC which I thought made it a Phase 1. During a JDM swap I wanted the JDM transmission too. After getting everything in there the transmission connectors don't match - 17pin vs 13pin. (Please don't make fun of me, just take pitty) My old transmission is a TZ1A2 and the JDM is a TZ102. And from another of johnceggleston's posts it indicates the TZ1A2 is Phase 2! So I have a few questions: So did my car come with a Phase 1 Engine and a Phase 2 Transmission? (If it's all Phase 2, I'm confused because I thought that would be a SOHC??) I've read several times not to mix-match Phase 1 and Phase 2. But I need reassured, if it is a Phase 2 ECU it is ok to mate it with a Phase 1 engine as long as you keep your Phase 2 intake manifold? FYI: TZ1A2ZJEBA-WZ 1999 OB TZ102Z1DBA-KC ? JDM I understand the front differential gear ratios need to match, and it's very hard to know with the JDM.. Another thread here mentioned counting the teeth, is there another way to determine it? I'm pretty certain this AT is not going to work for me, but for it's next home.. I need to know.

Sounds good, I want to make sure I understand the simple work around. Is it just not attaching anything to the harness, since I don't have anything to attach? Or can you post a link?

I guess I should have also stated that I searched a lot before posting - that is where I came up with my 3 proposed options. I previously read that link at least 4 times. As I stated, I'm not concerned about the code... just running good and mileage. Does the ECU retard spark or do anything detrimental to compensate for thinking the EGR is wonky? As far as "driving around with a CEL" -- I'll have an ELM327 on the OBD2 and an Android display on there quite often.

Hi all... I'm looking for my best path. Here's my situation: I have a JDM EJ25 without EGR. It came with AT and many accessories. (no JDM ECU though) I'm trying to put it in a 1999 Outback Wagon. Due to some engine swapping previously, I do not have the original EJ25D or intake manifold. My state does not do smog tests. I could live with the engine light on, but prefer it being off. -------------- Option #1 - Get EJ25 intake manifold used with EGR stuff, $$$. Drill EGR port, being careful. This should make everything legit? No codes? Runs right, good mileage? Option #2 - Get EGR stuff (what do I need?) and tuck it under the manifold. I read that this is enough to make the ECU happy and not throw codes? Good mileage? Option #3 - Do nothing, don't buy or hook up any EGR. ECU throws codes. Would mileage suffer? Would it run right? There are lots of threads, but can't see one that addresses these options. My main concern is making it run right. Second concern is not spending more money. Third, codes / engine light. Thanks for any ideas.