Outbailey

I have a '00 Subaru Outback that I installed a rebuilt EJ25 2.5L long block that makes the same noise. I guess the hydraulic timing belt tensioner can be the culprit. Unfortunately, this is my only vehicle now, so an engine tear down inspection is not much of an option. The rebuild has 25,000 miles on it and it started to make the "knocking" sound after 12,000 miles.....just past the rebuild warranty period. The sound drives me nuts. The engine runs fine, no CEL, and the fuel economy is 15 mpg city, 32 mpg highway. Still driving it sounding like a ticking time bomb. Please post your cure...if you find it. Good Luck!

Greetings! I have a '00 Outback and I love it. I have driven it in many places I thought a passenger car/wagon could never go...but my soob had made it with little effort. I'm in Colorado and drive mountain roads and trails daily. My Outback never seizes to surprise me! Note: I added a 2" lift to help ground clearance. Good luck in your search for the best car that fits your specific needs.

Hello everybody! I'm happy to announce that I stumbled across this web forum when looking for a suspension lift kit for my '00 Outback. I have found the lift spacers and successfully installed it just in time for the New Year 2014! I'm happy to be a member and I hope my knowledge of automotive repair can help others here on this site. I also know many members here can teach me things about Subaru that I may have missed! This is an awesome resource for anyone who enjoys their Subaru and knows how special their car is. Glad to be here. Thank you and Happy New Year folks!

Check the battery terminals for corrosion and/or loose connections. Clean as necessary. Also, check the connections at the alternator for any loose wires. If everything looks good, use a DVOM or a standard voltmeter and check the voltage between the positive cable of the alternator and the negative terminal at the battery (or any good ground) while the engine is running. If the alternator output is 14v or above, the alternator is good and the battery may not be taking a charge. If the voltage is under 12v or is the same as the battery voltage, than the alternator is malfunctioning. Hope this helps achieve a proper Dx. As far as the brake light, simply check the brake fluid level. If low, add DOT3 brake fluid to (but do not fill) brake master cylinder. If the light turns off than you may need to inspect your brake linings. If the brake light is still on, check the master cylinder for any loose wiring or connection problems. Sometimes gently tapping the master cylinder can dislodge a stuck float that activates the indicator light. Good luck.

I'm not sure if this will help you....but I own a 2000 Outback that has a leak in the rear hatch that burns out my right rear tail lamp. This leak allows rain to seep inside the rear hatch and fills the tail lamp fixture, thus causing multiple issues with moisture in that area. I have removed the inside cover of the rear hatch so I can drain excess water from the affected tail lamp fixture after a rain. One Subie tech told me it was caused by the rear glass weather strip not sealing effectively and a glass specialist would need to properly repair it. I may remove the rear hatch fascia and check for splits along the seams before I decide to have the rear glass weather stripping repaired. In the mean time, I will continue to remove excess water from the hatch manually until I find some time to dig into the issue and find the answer. I hope this helps you pinpoint your problem. Good luck. I'll post my fix when I find it.