CMJAnew
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Posts posted by CMJAnew
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alright, thanks
FWI - If you're interested in the other NOS wiper motor, the one I received works perfectly.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/220828882389?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
$56.00 including shipping. I think there is one more available.
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Thanks, Bought a N.O.S. one.
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Would you, Could you explain the "flush" procedure. The only way I can describe my tranny fluid is RANCID.
Should add, I'm in the wrong forum now (have a 78 Brat) but was looking for manual trans discussions.
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Using jumper wires directly from the battery to the wiper motor I got;
tic-tic.......pause......tic-tic.......pause.......tic-tic
No 'running' of the motor.
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I'll try running jumpers. Do I need to be careful of Positive and Negative? If so, which terminal on the motor corresponds?
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Folks,
First understand I am NOT very good with a multi-meter. That is, I do a lot of touching this and that, not really knowing if I'm in the right spot(s).
That said;
when the key is in accessory position and/or the car is running, with wiper switch "ON" I can hear the motor "clicking" (doesn't really sound like arcing).
when I touch the left (from the front) connection on the motor, the meter reads 11volts
when I touch the right " " the meter reads 0 volts.
Bad Motor????
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Careful if you go the spray adhesive route. My instrument panel was "glued" in due to over-spray.
Will be watching this thread closely for the same reason as barrett.
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After getting some suggestions on a Brat/Brumby facebook page I took the instrument panel out (it was suggested a burned out "charge" light would not allow the alternator to function correctly).
THERE WAS NO LIGHT AT ALL. So I switched one from the "oil" to "charge". This made no difference -- still no charge.
So, I did what any normal guy would do ---- Replaced the alternator with a fresh rebuilt. NOW IT CHARGES. I was going to let it idle a while to be sure but, alas, blew the lower radiator hose.
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As to the instrument panel lights -- they ALL seem to be on ALL the time now. Any ideas why? And, what to do 'bout it?
Plus, any ideas where to get the smaller of the lights and sockets for the instrument panel? The larger (1/2") ones are readily available on eBay.
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I bought a Service Manual -- 1600/1800 Feb 1981 reprint. MSA-111.
Of course my car is a 78 Brat.
Is this manual going to be an aid or a hindrance? That is, should I be on the lookout for a 78 specific manual?
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Finally purchased a volt meter (extremely cheap one) to get to the bottom of the not charging issue.
Tested the battery with engine NOT running = 13V (I had charged it fully a couple weeks ago)
Tested the battery with engine at idling = 12V
Tested the battery with engine under load = 12V to 13V
Never went above 13V
Do you all think I should go straight to replacing the alternator?
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Always seems to happen in the 'intro' area.
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only if you let too much fluid out while working on it/bleeding it and you drained the reservoir
Good. Most of what was lost came from the old calipers. Very little even came from the lines.
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Rebuilt calipers installed on the Brat this am. Not sure if I've got them bled out completely. Used the 'hose to the bottle - back feed method'. Is it necessary to bleed the rears as well?
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Try the "newer" generations section
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Introduce yourself here, but please ask your Subaru Questions in the proper forums below. thanks! Welcome to the USMB!
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I think I'm going to punt on these calipers. Had the right off, and disconnected from the line. Could NOT get it to budge. Put the assemblies back together (without pads) just so I can move the Brat around.
I'll think about replacing with new.
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When it comes to any type of mechanical work - assume I know NOTHING. Because what I do know is minimal.
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Thank You....Thank You.....Thank You. I'll check out the local parts stores this afternoon. If not available locally I'm all over one of these on eBay.
Assuming I successfully get them back in, should I work them a few times before reassembling the caliper, pads and disc?
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What's the time tested, no fail, proven procedure for screwing the piston back in?
The piston does have a recess across it, but its so wide (5/16 to 3/8) I can't figure what to use or do to screw it back in.
Appears I am going to be doing the same on both fronts - right and left.
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Pics are primarily from the driver's side front with the wheel removed. If you look closely at the jack stand, you'll see the 'frame' collapsed onto it. I haven't been front to back, but what I've seen so far is very punky.
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Figure its time to take this thread out of the 'intro' pages!
Here are a few photos of my "...clean and solid undercarriage..." Quoted from eBay ad
The more I look at this, the more frustrated I get with myself and eBay-er ( mikesbikes35 )
WARNING: Offensive photos included. You may want to avert your eyes. Unless you find rust and rot acceptable
I have as much computer literacy as I have mechanical aptitude. So I'll let photo bucket handle the pics.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s230.photobuc...ideshow/78 Brat"></iframe>
center cap fasteners
in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
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Interesting! My '78 Brat's center caps look like these.....have a free spinning threaded bolt attached. They thread in, which I actually thought was odd since I've not seen others in photos.