thefarmboy21

Thanks! I'll check it out soon I hope. Weather here is crazy....60 then to 35 and tomorrow 65.

Does the radiator need pulled to pull the front cover?

Well I don't think it's One dead cylinder....it dies about 10-15 seconds after I take my foot off the gas. It idles extremely thought when I do. I was reading that it COULD be a bad coil pack, but I'm leaning more towards jumped time. I mean it barely has enough power to pull out of its tracks on flat ground. I had to gut it yesterday to move it around back, out of my way for the time being. It also won't start every time. If I let it die, it won't start again for an hour or so. Weird.

Yea I put a new knock sensor and fuel pump in yesterday.....the code cleared and didn't come back on even with the rough idle. How do I check the timing belt to see if it jumped? I mean I have a good idea how to tell once I'm in there just don't know what to take off etc. I'm an American V8 guy....built several 350 chevy's etc.....Subie's are a whole different dimension to me haha. Are the Subie motors interference motors?

I've got a 93 legacy with the 2.2 and 5-speed. The other day it started idling really high, like between 1500-2000 rpm and usually it's around 600-700 seems like. Well the next day it was doing the same thing but ran/drive fine other than that. Well my wife went to get a few things from the store in it and she said it was running really weird and had now power etc etc, then she calls and says it won't start so I figured either the fuel pump went out or the knock sensor code it had been showing finally shut the car down somehow. Well a few days later I go to in town to where it was and it started, so I limped it home. Shaking really bad, exhaust sounded weirder than usual, and to climb hills it was 1st gear. Driving I had to push it as hard as it would go in 2nd and 3rd gear all the way home. It's like it's just bogged completely out like a dirt bike with the rings burnt up. So anyway yesterday I swapped the fuel pump, knock sensor, cleaned the MAF, the throttle body, the PCV, the O2 sens and I even unhooked the exhaust and reamed out the CAT!!!! Fired it up with the exhaust still dropped to eliminate a clogged exhaust further down.....STILL RUNS LIKE CRAP!!!! So now I'm not sure what to do next. It's just an old ridge runner/work beater. Looks like absolute crap, but up to now it rand and drove great and gets me around in the snow. So I'm thinking either it's blown up or I'm having some kind of ignition or fuel problem elsewhere. Oh also it has a new fuel filter, new NGK plugs, air filter, crank sensor and oil change.....those were all done right before winter. I'm just torn, it was a free car but I don't want to keep sinking money in it because it's only worth about $5-600 RUNNING and I can just junk it and get half that cause I'm only in it for parts cost as it stands. Thanks!!!!

Yes, I actually changed both battery cables because I wasn't getting a connection. So the battery was out if the car for three weeks. I also was having knock sensor problems before the crank sensor broke. The crank sensor was fine until I was changing the alternator an decided to clean the crank sensor (because it was dying at stops all the time) so I just figured since it was right there it'd be easy and no problems. That was before I knew they were common to break in subarus.

Just wanted to let everyone know that the swap DID work! At Autozone and O'Reilly the sensor for my car (with wires) was $249.99.....I bought one for a 95 model (no wires) for $22.99 and a pack of mini female butt connectors for $5.99 and cut my broken sensor, crimped on two connectors, stuck it in and it fired right up first try. Wires go in same location as the go into the old sensor (red closest to mounting tab) Needless to say I was pretty happy! Now I just have to figure out why it wants to die at stop signs. It's throwing a knock sensor code, so that maybe it. It's only $12 so no big deal. Thanks for all the help.

I don't know why it wouldn't come out....it would twist all around but wouldn't budge upward. I thought maybe there was an O-ring on it or something

Well I sure hope it works! I don't need a harness or anything. I have all I need except the sensor itself but I think it's only 20-30 dollars and I can get it local no problem. And I'd rather go buy one that way I know I can return it if it don't work.....because I used to work there and et a good discount anyway. So for any tips for gettin it out of the block. Especially since it's cold out? There are no nubs sticking up or anything :/

Well there's just a few problems with finding a used one: 1. It's common for them all to break off. 2. It's next to impossible to find any subarus around here pre about 99ish. And 3. The temps are in the negatives here. I'm going to stop at the parts store this week and see if I can hold the two side by side. The difference I can see from pictures is just the harness plugs. One has about a 15" lead as the other plugs right into the side. Mine has the lead that has three wires and then merges and only two actually go into the sensor (white and black) The newer ones take a two prong plug....so I'm thinking "hey I can just cut my two wires off at the sensor and plug them onto the prongs of the 93 style sensor. The only problem I see is that if they don't read the same way as someone stated. But I'm gonna try regardless because I can just take the sensor back, no harm done. It just seems crazy that's there's such an EXTREME price difference. I just can't believe as common as this is, no one has came up with a cheaper fix for the older cars.....unless there is none other than the $200 sensor haha. I'm not too tore up because the car was free and looks like crap. I was going to derby it but it ran/drove good so I hated to just waste it. Figure I'd drive it til it fell apart. But I'm not paying $200 for a sensor for a car worth $500 running lol.

I've got a 92 legacy sedan with the EJ22. I recently broke the crank sensor off in the motor. I've read all about that part and seems like it will be a pain but that's not my real issue. My REAL question is is this: Is there a crank sensor conversion and/or adapter I can use to replace the old style crank sensor. I've researched and researched and the sensor for the 90-92 model (pc189 I think) is like $200 BUT the sensor for a 93 model (PC 159 I think) look to be the same size and shape minus how the harness hooks in and it's like $20-$30 CAN I cut the wires off my old sensor and splice them into the two prongs on the 93 model sensor and make it run again???? Or is there anyway to DO AWAY with the stupid thing all together? Also any removal tips would be helpful but I think I know what I need to do. Thanks!