chompy
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Posts posted by chompy
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They might be different... The relay is the same, but mine was up really high, above the steering column like gloyale is saying.
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Ya the ticking could be the timing is too advanced... Use a timing light and set it to 8*. Our cars have EA81s which don't have timing belts, so don't wory about that. Listen to what Suckerking is saying about setting the carb back to baseline. You might end up doing it a few times at least before you really get the hang of setting the idle and mixture screws. Adjust it slowly and wait for the carb to respond before turning the screw again.
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The vacuum leak could be between the carb and the intake. Do you have a propane torch you can use? You can point the nozzle near base of the carb(UNLIT OF COURSE) while the car is running and it will suck in the propane through any vacuum leak. You will hear the engine respond when you get the gas near the leak.
edit: PS: My car would backfire(diesel) when shutting it off if the idle was too high. Just a little FYI
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Webers are fun to play with...
$.02
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For our carbed cars its a good idea to have an inline filter in the engine bay as well.
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So with mine I just removed the asv tubing and blocked it with a quarter, leaving that in. Is there an advantage to removing the spacer/block? The upper end of the asv where the vac connects to was the section that simply unbolted off. Sorry again to the OP if this is no help to them...
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On EA81 cars the tube that feeds the reed valves is mounted to a Block that sandwiches between the head and the y-pipe. The blocks bolt to 2 studs.....the nthe y pipe flange is rotated 90 and bolted to the block on the other 2 studs..
If you remove those blocks.....you have to move the studs to the other holes.....and use a EA82 y pipe cause the EA81 won't reach the head now.
EA82 is not the same just remove tubes....block the ports ont he head.
I have an ea81 but that wasn't the case... Not to be argumentative. The hole assembly is bolted on and came off easily. There was no need to remove the head or any studs...
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Oh ya, I see what he was talking about now... Curious as to why he would have to swap exhaust studs after removing the tubing? I removed the metal tube and the rest of the asv and didn't have to mess with the studs in any way. Not to hijack a thread...
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50/50 is good. I had a 60 in mine and it bogged so I found a 50 at Discount Import Parts here in portland(saw you are in vancouver) and it runs much better. I would go check them out if you need any weber parts as they carry a bunch of stuff and can have parts ordered by the next day.
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The canister at the firewall? Does it look like a tiny can on it's side with an inlet/outlet? If so that's part of the vacuum system for your heater. You can plug that line directly into one of the manifold vac ports.
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Do you have a timing light to see if it is getting spark? You can also pull a plug. Attach it to the plug wire and grab the plug with a nice pair of INSULATED pliers and slightly ground it on the block while someone else turns the car over. You should see a nice spark. You need to start from the beginning and slowly work your way through the system until the problem is isolated. Spark and fuel...
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I second the starter problem just based on your wheeeeeeclick description, although you are saying you have physically seen the belts move when it is being turned over?
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It's odd that fuel would somehow travel back through the return line... One is for the tank vent so it should not be capped off. The return line can be capped off if you don't attach it to the carb. My tank vent has a small filter on it so debris/water don't somehow travel down the tube. I also do not have the return line connected to the carb, although some people will pull the gas inlet off of the hitachi carb and throw it on the weber, thereby allowing you to use the proper return line.
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Pretty sure that's Loyal 2.7 Turbo. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ He lives in Honduras and has written about the weber multiple times. Use google with ultimatesubaru.org included in the search and you might have better luck finding posts relating to the weber. The search function on the forum is lacking to say the least...
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Seems like a bunch of us are from Portland too...
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Removed the ECS after getting tired of seeing the light pop on after 20 minutes of driving. If I get ambitious I might actually remove the wiring as well.
Edit:
Oh ya, ordered new rear shocks(KYB 343056), valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket for some minor tuneup work.
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My 84 gl has orange... Not really sure of the cutoff year.
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Its usually farther up past the round relays. Its black and attached to a clip which you slide up if I recall. Its a generic flasher relay and is cheap.
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Put a weber on my 84 GL Wagon last weekend. Removed a pile of unused vacuum system throughout the process. Sorry huge image...
Used the air filter from the air valve for the tank vents for now. It had fallen apart to reveal the paper filter. It's attached to the two vent lines at the moment. In the future I'll replace it with a proper air filter. Today I found a muffler at the picknpull for $13 and swapped my rusted open tin can of a muffler out. Funny how much it muffled the awesome sound the weber can bring out of these engines... oh well
Next I have to fix my hood hinge which has apparently been gathering water and somehow the bolts rusted out, popping the bracket out completely.-
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I thought the driver's side crankcase still needed a source for fresh air along with the pcv, but if you aren't having any problems seems like it works well. Here's an interesting animated gif of the build. Would have been better if I would have taken care to shoot from the same angle every time... oh well
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I ended up just tying into the line connected to the filter box for now. If I happen to get any oil I'm going to separate it from the system with the crankcase breather. Thanks for the input guys! Here's the way I ended up connecting the system:
I'll post the build pictures later. I just finally had a chance to start it after it got dark. It ran pretty damn well for the carb being set at baseline. I also haven't had a chance to touch the timing yet. One thing is the big inline filter I replaced the vapor filter with didn't seem to fill completely with fuel... It almost seemed like it was starving the carb a bit. This isn't the subaru style filter, and is more like a normal inline filter, just bigger. Maybe if I aligned it vertically that might change things... We'll see once I get some light in the morning.
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Hi, I have an EA81 that I'm currently swapping a Weber 32/36 into. I traded for a used weber 32/36 and rebuilt it. I'm currently waiting for PB blaster to soak into two of the studs that wouldn't initially come out(they are near the water inlet...). Anyways I was looking at my PCV set up and was wondering if I could use a crankcase breather instead of tapping into the air filter box. Would this work correctly? I would have the passenger side crankcase going directly to the air filter box for fresh air. I would then have the drivers side crankcase connected to the PCV valve and the original "F" coupler. The smaller hose coming off the "F" coupler will then attach to the crankcase breather similar to these ones: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SPT0/3991/N0572.oap?ck=Search_N0572_-1_4595&pt=N0572&ppt=C0088
I have taken a lot of pictures through the process, so hopefully after I get this all worked out I can post an interesting animated GIF of the vacuum pieces being removed... Would appreciate any help with this and will post the results. Thanks!
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I'll throw in that sales people hand me the wrong cap and rotor for subarus a majority of the time. The 4x4 and FW cap are slightly different in the orientation of the plugs, so your timing would be off if you put the wrong cap on... My $.02
'82 BRAT is hurt, hurt real bad.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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You should just find a weber 32/36 at a junk yard or buy one new one from redline. You can get the adapter plate from redline as well.