chompy

You should just find a weber 32/36 at a junk yard or buy one new one from redline. You can get the adapter plate from redline as well.

They might be different... The relay is the same, but mine was up really high, above the steering column like gloyale is saying.

Ya the ticking could be the timing is too advanced... Use a timing light and set it to 8*. Our cars have EA81s which don't have timing belts, so don't wory about that. Listen to what Suckerking is saying about setting the carb back to baseline. You might end up doing it a few times at least before you really get the hang of setting the idle and mixture screws. Adjust it slowly and wait for the carb to respond before turning the screw again.

The vacuum leak could be between the carb and the intake. Do you have a propane torch you can use? You can point the nozzle near base of the carb(UNLIT OF COURSE) while the car is running and it will suck in the propane through any vacuum leak. You will hear the engine respond when you get the gas near the leak. edit: PS: My car would backfire(diesel) when shutting it off if the idle was too high. Just a little FYI

Webers are fun to play with... $.02

For our carbed cars its a good idea to have an inline filter in the engine bay as well.

So with mine I just removed the asv tubing and blocked it with a quarter, leaving that in. Is there an advantage to removing the spacer/block? The upper end of the asv where the vac connects to was the section that simply unbolted off. Sorry again to the OP if this is no help to them...

84 gl

I have an ea81 but that wasn't the case... Not to be argumentative. The hole assembly is bolted on and came off easily. There was no need to remove the head or any studs...

Oh ya, I see what he was talking about now... Curious as to why he would have to swap exhaust studs after removing the tubing? I removed the metal tube and the rest of the asv and didn't have to mess with the studs in any way. Not to hijack a thread...

50/50 is good. I had a 60 in mine and it bogged so I found a 50 at Discount Import Parts here in portland(saw you are in vancouver) and it runs much better. I would go check them out if you need any weber parts as they carry a bunch of stuff and can have parts ordered by the next day.

The canister at the firewall? Does it look like a tiny can on it's side with an inlet/outlet? If so that's part of the vacuum system for your heater. You can plug that line directly into one of the manifold vac ports.

Do you have a timing light to see if it is getting spark? You can also pull a plug. Attach it to the plug wire and grab the plug with a nice pair of INSULATED pliers and slightly ground it on the block while someone else turns the car over. You should see a nice spark. You need to start from the beginning and slowly work your way through the system until the problem is isolated. Spark and fuel...

I second the starter problem just based on your wheeeeeeclick description, although you are saying you have physically seen the belts move when it is being turned over?

It's odd that fuel would somehow travel back through the return line... One is for the tank vent so it should not be capped off. The return line can be capped off if you don't attach it to the carb. My tank vent has a small filter on it so debris/water don't somehow travel down the tube. I also do not have the return line connected to the carb, although some people will pull the gas inlet off of the hitachi carb and throw it on the weber, thereby allowing you to use the proper return line.