Thesatelliteguy

I’m new here so go easy on me. Lol Heres what I got. I put a Ej22 out of a 90’ Legacy in my Volkswagen Baja bug. I cant use the stock fuel pressure regulator anymore bc I’m switching all the fuel lines over to AN fittings. I had made some fuel rail ends that had a barbed fitting on them, and it worked ok for a while. But one developed a leak, hence the reason for wanting to switch over to AN fittings. It seems obvious right, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator from AEM or some other quality manufacturer is in order. But I’ve searched all over the web trying to see what is common and it seems like no one uses an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Is this extremely uncommon? Am I even posting this in the right place? Any help would be much appreciated!

i cleaned the TB with B-12 chemtool and the IAC with sea foam. The bypass i am refering to is inside the TB. I dont have a spare ecu but the local junk yard has a few subies right now. Should i get one and if so, what do i look for to get the same ecu? i heard they are very specific.

I replaced the MAF with a junk yard one about a month after I got it running in the bug. It cleared the code and ran just fine. I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it real well. Even got that bypas that is cast into the TB that let's air past the throttle butterfly. When I put it back together, that's when the high idle issue came about. I blamed it on me messing with the TPS (I took it off to see what it looks like) but I'm pretty sure I set it back in the same spot. According to the chiltons manule at least. The inside of the manifold was a little dirty. I was planning on taking the manifold off to weld up some holes on it that will never be used and clean and test the fuel injectors at the same time.

1. I tested the tps with back probes on the connector. It read 4.27-4.30 volts with the throttle closed and 0.69-0.71 volts open. These numbers are backwards from what the haynes manuel says, but i read a post somewhere online that said the older tps read that way. I got a reference voltage of 5.15. Do these numbers look off to you? 2. Dam, i hate vacuum leaks 3. I already grounded that pin to let the ECU know its not an automatic any more. It did change that problem but it still idles high. It might be a cursed car. The legacy had some codes before i pulled the motor out of it. a knock sensor and a MAF code. Thanks for your help

1990 legacy ej22 from an automotatic trans. installed in a 69' VW baja bug using stock computer. 1. At 100% throttle the engine just kind of studders, like its not getting the right fuel/air ratio or bad spark timing. It does this at any rpm or engine temp. If i lay into the trottle its fine until i get the pedal to the floor. 2. It starts right up in the morning but idles high, about 3000 rpm, then slowly comes down to about 1000rpm. After that, if i just barely tap the throttle it shoots back up to 3000rpm then slowly comes back down to 1000rpm. It only does this when cold. After running for about 1 min. it stops. 3. I noticed that i can pinch the idle control valve hose completely shut and it still idles. Im a mechanically inclined individual, i just know very little about subarus right now.

I have a 1990 legacy engine and computer in my 69' vw baja bug. I have been getting codes for the IAC (code #16) that come and go. I have erased all the codes, then took it for a drive and the code comes back. I removed the IAC valve and cleaned it, took it for a drive and the CEL comes back on, throwing a code for the IAC again. So, I was wondering if there is a way to test to see if its still working? I unplugged it while idleing and it got all funky with the idle. I did the engine conversion my self, including the wiring harness modification. But i was very careful to follow instructions and all my connections were soldered, covered in liquid electrical tape, then shrink wraped. So i rule out a bad connection. Also, the harness modification is more like shortening the harness. Cut here, measure X amount of inches, cut again, Solder same color wires back together. Simple. Thanks, TSG

Hey, Im new here, this is my first post and i could really use some help from some knoledged Subi people. Im putting an EJ22 into my baja bug and came across a problem. Im flipping the intake manifold 180* bc the throttle body was interfearing with the fire wall. While taking the manifold off and stripping it of what i dont need i came to the fuel vapor sloenoid valve which has one rubber line going to the charcoal canister and one going to the top of the throttle body. I was wondering, since im not using a charcoal canister, can i just cap this system at the throttle body and leave the solenoid unplugged? Here's a pic of the solenoid. Also, i ran into issues with the metal fuel lines hitting the radiator outlet (or inlet?) on top of the motor, and the collant crossover that sits on the very top of the motor. So i was wondering if there are fuel rail end caps available that would let me use a braided fuel line plugged into the fuel rail rather then the metal fuel lines? Here's what im talking about replacing. The piece on the right. And just for kicks, since i was feeling down today b/c i came to this halt in my progress, i decided to hang the enging on the transmission for the first time. Im getty with excitement.