oldblue2

So far I have already gone through and tried finding all the vacuum leaks... to no avail. I think it may only be running on 3 cylinders though, not sure why which is why I wanted to read the codes. I still have no been able to find any matching plugs other than the two green ones behind the dash. Like I said my HC were only 36 over. So almost good enough to pass. If I could only make a little adjustment and get it down a little more, then I think I would be ok and pass fine. All my other levels were great, especially when "driving" I only had problems when idling. Could a bad 02 sensor cause these problems?

Anybody please??? I only have 9 more days to fix this issue!

Anybody? I really need to fix this problem by the end of the month to pass emissions.

No that isn't it, in fact as long as I restart the car right before I go in, the light will be off for the test, so I haven't had a problem with that. It's just that I need to get my hydrocarbons down when it's at idle. The idle is all over the place though, sometimes it's up to 2500 (which i think is 1500 since the tach is all over the place as well, it jumps a grand sometimes while on the freeway and then back down) Sometimes it will idle real low. And when it is low, like 600 rpm, it will run really rough.

My ECS is on, and I have been having problems passing emissions here in seattle (over by only 56 on HC count at idle!) I think it might have something to do with the O2 sensor. But I would like to find out for sure. I have been searching the forum for any instructions but have only been able to find stuff saying how to do it on newer cars (mine's an 85) I have one red 8 pin plug under the panel by the fuse box, one white 8 pin connector, and one 6 pin red connector (all female) There are two green matching 1 pin connectors (male/female) one black male connector, on the engine side of the firewall on the drivers side there is one pink connector, one white/yellowish connector, and one green connector, all female. The white/yellowish connector is 7 pins, and the pink one is 4 pin, the green one is 1 pin like the one on the inside. So I have no idea which ones to connect how in order for it to read stored codes. It's throwing 11 in U-mode. But I know another code comes on after the car has been driven for perhaps more than 15 minutes. Any input is appreciated! thanks! Also any advice on sliding by emissions?

My 85 GL wagon, carbed, just started having serious problems when it starts up. It used to not have a whole lot of power till it was fully warm, but that was ok, it wouldnt die on me or chug around and fluctuate when idling. Now all of the sudden it almost feels as if its running on 3 cylinders because it just has no power whatsoever till its warm. When it's warm though it feels normal like it did before. But when it's cold I have to keep on the throttle until it warms up otherwise it will die. If I let off the gas, it will slow down to about 1000 rpm... fluctuate a bit, and usually it will dip down too low and just kill itself. I just replaced the plugs recently and did an oil change, but both of these were about 1000 miles before this started happening. It's got 202k on the clock. Thanks.

How do you wire up a relay? I have basic electrical knowledge, but have never wired up a relay before.

I picked up a highway blaster horn for my car since one horn isnt working, and the other was seriously lacking. Using the wires from the passenger side horn i connected it, and pressed the horn button, and all I got was a "click" basically out of the horn. Tried switching terminals, nothing, switched back, click again. So I tried grounding it the other way, through the body, with one terminal connected to the green w/o a black strip wire from the horn. Horn came on loud and clear but was always on, switched terminals, and got nothing. Now I did a search for stuff on this and came up with nothing, but i did see that both of these are supposed to be live. So that would mean that the way i had it grounded both of those wires should of worked right? Is there any other way to hook this up? Any suggestions at all? Thanks.

anybody?

Just looking over a list of parts I might want to replace when I tune my car up. Currently I have another carb on the way from a fellow member here, and I plan on doing plugs (wires/cap and rotor were just done recently). Now I know these unheated 02 sensors dont last long. But I am also not sure how much it would be effecting my fuel mileage on my 85 carbed wagon. Because I currently get pretty bad mileage in the city, and great on the freeway. My Jetta hates to run without a good O2 sensor... so just thought I'd ask bout the sub.

I put a third of the bottle down the throat, but will add some to the fuel tank as well. I misspoke when I said it's an 84, it's an 85 actually. Think I'll buy some more of these seafoam stuff though for all the other cars I work on, cause it really seems to do a pretty good job on cleaning stuff on out of there.

So it happened again, not the death rattle, but the not wanting to start. It finally did in the same way in which I had to stay on the starter for a while before finally it spun fast enough that i could finess it to idle. However, after this happened(this happened at NAPA when I was getting seafoam) I drove it home and slowly poured a bit of that stuff in there, and all day now it's been starting up no problem, and idling better. I must say first impressions of this 6 dollar seafoam stuff have been pretty good. Thanks again guys, I'll see if these good results last, if not looks like I am in the market for another carb. Will an EA81 carb fit on an EA82 engine ok?

Yes it is a manual, forgot to mention that. I'll give that seafoam a try though, thanks.

Thanks for the input guys. It definately sounds like dieseling. Today it started up no problem. But still everytime it is shut off it chugs for like a second till it completely comes to a stop. Only last night has it ever done that long extended chugging for like 20 seconds. I always pump the pedal two or three times before starting it, and have never really had problems with it starting. Now the car only cost 350 so spending alot on a rebuilt carb doesnt seem much worth it to me (only spent 5 dollars on an alternator and 10 dollars for oil and filter so far) So what about just a used carb that somebody is selling on the boards here? Also the tank was run to almost empty the other day, and just filled with fresh gas two days ago so i dont think it's gas line freeze. Also where is the fuel filter located on these? Since it was run to empty i was affraid of maybe something clogging it up. The furnace piping seems to be working just fine. I checked that out the other day when i was adding some tranny oil. I'm curious, what effect does turning the car off with it in gear and the brake pedal depressed have?

It's pretty cold here in seattle today, like below freezing. And our old 84 subaru GL sw started up a little rough when i first went to drive it tonight, so i drove it enough to get the temps up a bit, not all the way to normal but up there about a quarter to a third of the way. I then came and parked at the bank, and as i turned off the car it sputtered to a stop like it usually does, and then kept going for about 20 seconds with very slow weak "cough" ... pause... "cough" ...pause... "cough" ... etc. I then tried to start it up but got nothing. I checked the fluid levels, they all checked out, i looked at the carb to see if it was iced over or something but didnt see anything (don't know alot about carbs though) and then tried it again, still nothing, it would crank and crank but not turn over. So i called AAA and waited. Just before they got there I tried it again and this time it cranked, and cranked, then cranked faster and faster and faster, and then stumbled at about 200 rpm before i finally was able to finess it to a steady idle with the throttle. Now I have no idea what happened and am thinking it has to do with either the carb, but am not sure. Sorry bout having to read this book, but it's just not been my night with this car (somebody came and gave me a ticket while i was sitting right next to old blue!) Thanks.

Can't figure out where it's coming from but it's only when the wheel is turned towards the limits. Used the search but couldnt find anything that sounded the same as this. It's very light, faily rapid, maybe 2 knocks a second, i believe it happens when turning either way (know for sure when turning right) and it almost feels as if the car is 'slipping" or "triping over it's own feet" when this happens (it's really a weird sensation and hard to describe) Any ideas?

Thanks for the good info!

Wondering what the stock wheel dimensions are for my 85 GL wagon, including lug pattern, and what cars can I look for that might have slightly uprated wheels? (i.e. 14" wheels) Thanks.

Thanks for the welcome guys! First off, I just love wandering junkyards looking for cool stuff. (who doesn’t though?) But I have been told that a Y pipe off a FI model is a nice upgrade(how hard is it to install?) as well as a larger muffled like I mentioned before. Perhaps find some new shocks for the rear. (Things are so bad that on the freeway oscillations build up in the springs and the back end starts wandering from side to side) And I know it's a long shot but a weber 32/36 manifold sure would be cool to find, cause you can always find the carb itself cheap on www.bmw2002faq.com.

Hi there, just recently got an 85 GL wagon (carbed) and looking for some parts for it but don't know of junkyards around the seattle area that might have what I am looking for. Any suggestions? Also what size is the midpipe going into the muffler? I heard I can improve the power a little bit by putting a less restrictive muffler on (like 2.25 inch?) Thanks!