nebmaster

Forgot to specify...it is the rear bumper I need...

Was wondering, will the sedan bumpers for a 96 legacy fit non outback wagons. I need a new bumper (My girlfriend wrecked my car...) and I am having a terribly difficult time finding a bumper for a 96 non outback wagon. Thanks, Ben

Also checked fuses/fusible link. Nothing...

Battery and alternator cables are new, replaced with nice ones about six months ago. The continuity chech on the ignition switch went good, ditto for any obvious opens/shorts on the starter. I suspected the fuel pump relay first myself, but I don't see how it could cause the whole car to loose power like this...Fuel filter was also changed recently as well...

The battery tested fine...it's not the problem. Put it back in the car, still no power to anything that is not directly connected to the battery.

This time jump starter had no effect....the car remained dead. I'm gonna run the battery by autozone to have it tested anyway in a few min...and I'll tell you the verdict.

Okay, just got back from front yard. Jumpstarting at first did nothing, but about five seconds after I disconnected the jump starter, I noticed the headlights had come on (Key 2nd click) Got in car and it started no problem, however several seconds later, the motor died and all of the electronics went. Did this again, and after cranking for 10~15 seconds (with no results) the car suddenly started again, ran for a minute, and then died... This is the weirdest problem I have yet encountered with my car...

Interesting...Went outside to move car off the street after last stalling incident and the car has no power to any circuit that is not wired external of the car's stock electrical system. Battery reads 12.8v, no crank, and I can't even get the transmission interlock out. What could cause power to the car to die intermittently like this? Perhaps this is happening just momentarily when the car sputters or stalls, and then correcting itself...what should I test?

nope, not the ignitor. Installed part ten minutes ago, and as I was pulling out of the driveway, the car stalled. Back to square one, roughly $140 poorer. Anyone have any other thoughts on what it might be?

Okay...I ordered the ignitor and will see if that is the problem...will keep posted. Thanks for the replies

nope, no codes. I have a scantool, so I checked just to be sure, even though the mil has stayed off. It just dies...

Just test drove the car again after work, since it was night and there was little traffic. It appears that the engine stalling is the only electrical system affected. The headlights, A/C blower, and everything else just keep right on going. It's as if I had just turned the key off. I tried jiggling the key around while cruising to see if it may be a worn ignition switch, but this does not recreate the problem. The coil pack is an oem new replacement, only about a year and a half old. Other than that, I'm at a loss...I kinda want to suspect the fuel pump relay or the ignition relay (because of the clicking noise as the car dies...) but I'm not really sure how to test these (or even where they are located...but the click seems to be coming from behind the dash...) Help would be appreciated if anyone has any ideas. Hopefully I won't have to crater and go to a mechanic. Thanks in advance guys (and gals)

Shows between 14.1 and 14.4, depending on what is on at the time (did this earlier because I realized that the voltage on the capacitor was the voltage of the capacitor, and not the actual electrical system, which are related, but not the same...)

This crossed my mind, but the voltmeter on the cap on my audio system has always read higher than 13.5 volts with the engine on, and 12.6 on just the battery. It's hard to glance back there when I stall, but the battery and all of the terminals on the battery and alternator have been replaced recently with high performance parts, leading me to believe that the problem is further down the electrical system.

forgot to mention, the car has so far started back up again with no problem after it stalls, if this helps

My 96 legacy 2.2L with 190k developed a weird stalling problem when I was headed home from work last night. The car would for no apparent reason sputter out, and then immediately regain power, or die. I got home okay (interesting experience on the Houston freeways...) but when I drove the car again this morning, the problem had not gone away. When it happens, both the ABS and the AT Temp lights flash until the engine picks back up or dies, and I noticed this morning that I can hear a relay clicking whenever the problem occurs, leading me to believe it could be a bad relay. Beyond that, I really have no idea how to begin tackling this problem, so help is greatly appreciated...thanks in advance everyone.

On a 1996 Legacy 2.2 AWD, (California emissions if it matters...) is it the triangular or the square connector that connects to before catalyst o2 sensor? Thanks in advance...

I did it this summer, it's really not that difficult at all (at least in a 1996 legacy.) I didn't take pics or anything, but if I recall, the best mounting location is in the lower left side of the door (when you are looking at it...) My kit used full sized actuators, so it was a bit of a squeeze, but it will fit. After you hook it all up, make sure you test it while the skin is still off the door to avoid trouble later. Best of luck.

The price is right. I went with an alterantor from them after Autozone gave me the thrid defective unit... It's a Subaru OEM, and has not given me any trouble.

Whatever is good for you...thanks again

Josh that would be great. If you would rather send me that page over email rather than go to the trouble of hosting it, my address is nebmaster at yahoo.com (of course substituting the "at" for @) Thanks everyone who has helped so far

Thanks for all the help so far everyone, I'll be sure to keep you posted. Hopefully they will come to their senses when they get that letter, and realize I mean buisness. If not, then I guess I'll just have to do this the hard way...Anyway, thanks again everyone

thanks for the info avk...I take it by the lack of responses on the identity of the gaskets that no one has seen them before? I guess that the manager did just pick up some random gaskets he found lying around to appease me for the moment...

In fact, here is a picture of the box. I also find it odd that the only gasket listed on the box in this "special gasket set" is the oil pan gasket.

Josh, Thanks for all of the help so far. The invoice reads exactly as follows. N=New, R=Reconditioned/Rebuilt, U=Used 1 n Seal Oil Pan Gasket 232.60 1 n Rear Seal and Rear Cover 0.00 4 N Labor (rr) ( 296.52 Since he told me on the phone that there were gaskets left over in the set, I asked him for them when I came to the shop. He gave me the gaskets pictured above, all in an oil soaked cardboard box. The box was for a Fel-Pro "Oil Pan Set". It had my car listed on the back, and the part number OS 30656 C. A search of the Internet revealed that this part # usually sells for no more than ten dollars. So I'm pretty sure I got ripped off. I wrote him a letter demanding a refund of the difference in cost on these parts, sent certified mail of course. I guess I'll see what happens after that. Once again, thanks to everyone in advance.