sid_vicious
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Posts posted by sid_vicious
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False alarm, everyone. Turns out I'm just a big dufus. The bottom of the air filter housing wasn't fitting together properly. I think my hands were too cold to feel it when I was messing with it when it was so cold outside.
Good call on the air filter housing!
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Thanks for the replies. I think either suggestion could be the answer, or both. I do tend to drive like an old lady, actually, so maybe the transmission has adjusted and isn't ready for the very rare hard jump from a stop.
I did, however, have the airbox off a couple months ago when it got so cold outside that the car wouldn't start. It was getting into double digits below zero. I tried taking the airbox off and spraying some starting fluid into the throttle, not realizing that the real problem was moisture somewhere in the fuel lines that had frozen. The starting fluid burned off and then the car died and still wouldn't start.
I was surprised at how complex the air ducts were compared to my 97 Outback. That car seemed to just have a tube from the filter straight to the throttle body, whereas this car has a couple extra plastic chambers that just fit together without any fasteners. What are those about? I took a look at the intake ducts and didn't see any obvious problems. The air filter cover is snapped on fine and none of the joints in the ducts appear loose. Is there anything in particular I should check in this area?
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I've got an interesting problem with my 2003 Outback Sport. It's a 2.5L auto with 67k miles and has some odd response to throttle. I always thought it was a little unusual, but I really noticed it today trying to turn left from a stop through a somewhat small gap in oncoming traffic.
Since I've had a full size outback with the same engine and fully expected to easily accelerate through the gap with this smaller car, I was surprised when the engine bogged down as I stepped down harder on the accelerator. It's almost like the transmission is in second gear when it should be in first. The sound of the engine gets deeper as I try to accelerate and just seems like the car is straining without being able to accelerate.
Any ideas? I'm wondering if it's a problem with getting enough air into the engine or as I mentioned above the auto transmission overgearing the engine. The possible transmission issue also interests me since it seems slow to downshift in response to more throttle if I'm trying to quickly speed up to pass slower traffic. It takes a pretty serious stomp on the accelerator to get it to downshift. In fact, I often shift to 3rd with the shift lever if I know I need quick accleration when I'm already traveling at speed.
Thanks!
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Is this the hose you are talking about?
Sure enough. It's the hose on the right side of the photo by the white ground wire connector. The hose in porcupine's photo looks like it would be likely to do the trick. I read about this hose's function as a measure for ice prevention in the throttle body, and I'm sure I would be needing it in Wisconsin. How does one find such a part number? It seems there's always someone on the forum who has it, but it never comes up in the search engines on parts websites. It seems that if you know the P/N, they have it in stock, but you cannot find it just by searching the site? Is there a good source somewhere to find odd little parts like this? Anyway, thanks for the info, and I'll order up the hose.
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I was thinking the hose was 3/8". Maybe 5/16, being 1/16 smaller than 3/8, is a little more flexible? I half-heartedly tried to fit a 3/8 heater hose in there, and it just didn't seem like it would work.
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Hi,
I'm working on a Vanagon engine swap and I think I've discarded a small hose that I should have kept. The engine is a 1997 EJ25, 2.5L DOHC. The hose I'm looking for runs from the throttle body to the heater return pipe on top of the engine block. The hose makes two 90-degree bends, which makes me think I'm going to have a lot of trouble finding a replacement unless I have the Subaru part number and can just get an OEM hose. Anyone know where I can find it?
Thanks,
Andrew Harrison
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that bolt may seal up against a oil galley or a water galley, hence why its a differnt part number. That red isnt thread lock, but thread sealant.
nipper
That makes plenty of sense. Thanks.
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Hi,
I just received a new oil separator cover (P/N 11831AA210) to replace my older plastic version, and I have a question about the bolts. The oil separator cover is now sold as a kit with all six bolts, which doesn't seem unusual. What I don't understand is why it comes with five of one type of bolt (P/N 800406140) and one of a different type (P/N 800406150), which is pre-treated with red Loctite. There is an arrow pointing to one of the holes on the separator cover, which I assume must indicate the location of this unique bolt. I had planned on applying blue Loctite to all the bolts, but I'm now puzzled. If Subaru thought Loctite should be used, wouldn't they have pre-treated ALL the bolts for the oil separator cover, and why the one special bolt?
Thanks for any info you might have on this,
Andrew
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Howdy,
I am doing the Subaru-Vanagon engine swap, and have come across a surprise in the timing belt area. The engine is a 1997 2.5L from an Outback wagon. I've owned the Outback since it was new, and had not even planned to do any maintenance on the timing components because I replaced the belt and all the idlers somewhere around 30,000 miles ago. When I removed the covers to check out how things were fairing, I found rust on the belt. It seems to have come from the spots where the idlers were in contact with the belt while the engine was sitting. The tensioner pulley and the toothed idler seem to be the main culprits. The timing cover gasket doesn't seem to be damaged at all, so I can't figure out how the rust could have gotten there. Can humidity in the air cause this? The engine hasn't been run in maybe a month or so. Check out this photo. Note that I have rotated the belt, but you can see where the rust spots would line up.
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Eh?
Most EJ blocks have a blocked out - hex head bolt - in the top of the block as you say. Standing in front of the car, just below and left of the intake plenum.
I'd use that, it gives you an accurate reading for the oil temp inside the engine. The oil in the sump could read cooler since it's in the airstream.
That sounds totally logical to me. The posts I found about using the oil pan were, as I recall, from the older generation message board. I couldn't seem to find anything at all on the subject searching the new generation board, so I thought I'd ask.
Thanks for the reply.
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Hi,
I'm planning on using an oil temperature gauge on the 1997 EJ25 DOHC engine that I'm swapping into a Vanagon (thanks to Nipper for the advice). I found a couple threads about placement of the sender for an oil temp gauge, and it seemed to be that the preferred spot was to drill and tap threads for it into the oil pan drain plug. Are there any other methods that people have used successfully? I had thought that one of the other service holes on the top of the block would work, but I guess it's not a good spot?
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which oil pan are you using?
nipper
The engine has the stock oil pan on it. Engine is a 1997 EJ25 2.5 DOHC. I plan on shortening the pan for the Vanagon. Where does the type of oil pan come into play for the pressure sender?
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well indirectly its a big deal. One would like to know when one has low oil pressure. the ecu really could care less if the engine seizes from lack of oil
nipper
Heck yes. Is there any reason that a mechanic may have cut this wire at some point? I haven't taken it to any shops for quite some time, as I have gotten into working on it myself. I've checked the oil very often and been very careful to look for leaks, so I'm confident that I couldn't have been running with low oil pressure all this time.
I did have a problem with some kind of animal chewing up the engine harness once. I guess it's possible that something chomped the wire. My concern is that it appears to be cut so cleanly, as if it were snipped. Weird. I'll just solder it back together and see what happens.
Thanks for clearing up the question of why the ECU didn't freak out. It seems nuts to me that the engine computer doesn't monitor oil pressure.
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Hi,
Here's another question about the 1997 EJ25 from an Outback wagon that I'm using for a Vanagon swap. I noticed when I pulled the engine out of the Subaru that the wires leading to the oil pressure sender were completely and cleanly severed, almost like they had been deliberately cut. I was surprised by this, and even more surprised that the car was running great with no lights in the dash (I'm certain of this....it's been my car for years). Is the oil pressure sender not a big deal for the engine to run properly?
The engine had a total rebuild at a shop about 60,000 miles ago, which included a new oil pressure sender. I'm wondering if the shop may have installed a new sender in one of the other access holes in the block? I haven't looked too closely at it yet, but not knowing a ton about working on engines, I would've thought that the computer would freak if it weren't getting a signal from the oil pressure sender.
Any thoughts?
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Okie dokie, I guess that was really nothing to worry about. I went back at it the next day and the thing just came off in my hands. I kept it the right side up and didn't spill a drop. Thanks for all the help.
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Yeah, it is filled with fluid and is just heavy enough to be a PITA when seperating it - but it isn't crazy heavy. It is probably rusted to the driveplate. So it should just pry off once all four bolts are removed and lots of Liquid Wrench applied. You should replace the seal if the torque converter came off.
I'll be using the engine in a manual transmission Vanagon, so I won't need to worry about replacing the seal because I'm not using the TC. Do you have any idea how much fluid it has in it? Is it possible to catch it all in a drain pan or is it just a messy job by nature? The Liquid Wrench is a good idea. I'll give it another go tomorrow. Thanks!
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Hi,
I just pulled the engine from my 1997 Outback 4EAT, to use in a Vanagon swap. The engine came out fine, but the torque converter is seriously stuck on the driveplate. When I separated the engine from the automatic transmission, the torque converter stayed with the engine. Do I just need to pry at it until it comes off?
A couple other questions I have about it...how heavy is the torque converter? Will it be difficult for one person to hold it while the other tries to pry it off? Is there fluid inside the torque converter that will leak everywhere when I finally get it separated?
Thanks for the help.
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The short answer is no. Your best bet, provided the OB is still drivable, is to bring it to a garage that services AC systems and have them discharge it. All AC service facilities are required to recover refrigerant before opening up the system for service. The equipment required to do this costs several thousand dollars.
That car isn't going anywhere under its own power. I pretty much gutted it like a trout. All engine-related electrical components and wiring harnesses have been removed. I've decided to just leave the compressor in the car and find another one if I want to set up AC in the Vanagon at some point. I'm not going to let the AC gas into the air just because I screwed up by not having it discharged before beginning the project.
Thanks for the replies, though.
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Thanks for the info. I think removing the compressor is probably a good idea. The swap does call for it if I want to have AC in the Vanagon, but I'm not too excited about the prospect of discharging it myself. I guess I still haven't fully decided against doing the discharge, having researched the price of finding a used compressor sometime later on. However, of course I understand that being safe in the garage is the first priority. Are there tools I can get for less than the price of a new compressor that will allow me to discharge the system safely?
Also, thanks for the info on the fuel system. I was pretty sure that disconnecting the lines at the filter with plenty of rags and a receptacle handy wouldn't be a problem.
As for prep work, I figure it would be criminal not to replace the rear main seal while the engine is out. I'll do the valve cover gaskets, but maybe not the head gaskets because they've been replaced once and seem to be doing fine. I went all out on the last timing belt change, maybe 7 or 8 thousand miles ago: cam seals, crank seal, resealed oil pump and replaced water pump and thermostat. Is there anything else I should think about doing?
Ok the a/c system, unless your using the compressor leave it alone, Just swing the compressor out of the way. SInce i have an Federal AC license i cannot tell you anything else (doesnt mean no one else can't). WHat ever you do choose to do wear work gloves and goggles, do it someplace with ventilation, as accidents do happen while handling AC systems.Fuel system, ive never really had a problem with pressure in the system when its on a non running car. You have the bigest threat a non issue, a hot exhaust system and engine. You dissconnect it at the fuel filter and you should de pressurize it, as there are no check valves in the system Your going to get a minimal amount of fule out that is pressurized. What prep work are you going to do to the engine before installing it.
nipper
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Hi,
The 2.5L DOHC engine from my 1997 Outback is going into a Volkswagen Vanagon. I was feeling pretty proud of myself the other day for having completed removal of all the wiring needed for the swap when I suddenly remembered that I had not yet relieved the pressure in the fuel system or discharged the air conditioning system. I know the Haynes manual suggests unplugging the fuel pump and running the car until it dies to relieve fuel pressure, but is there anything else I can do without shooting gasoline all over the garage? I also have no experience with working on air conditioning systems, but am quite intimidated by the Haynes manual's warnings that the air conditioning system is under high pressure.
What should I do?
Andrew
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Not to be a wiseguy (well, maybe a bit of one
), but perhaps it's not the connecting rods that made those marks. See http://www.drive.subaru.com/SubaruDrive-Sum02/FeatureStory/Piston-Cranky/Crankshaft.jpg
That definitely makes sense. It would explain why it looked like the connecting rods were nowhere near contacting the block when I pulled it apart. BTW, what do you call those protruding parts on the crankshaft that were the likely culprits?
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I can't tell, is that the rearmost bearing we're looking at?
It looks like your thrust bearing might have been on its way out. Possibly. I'm never torn a Soob engine down, so I'm not the authority. But I'd say your crank was slightly walking. If someone can give a more authoritative answer, go ahead by all means.
No matter, you've already torn it down. Make sure the rods aren't damaged, throw a new set of main bearings in, and I'd say you're good.
Sorry...I didn't know orientation would matter for the photos. I'm not even sure which way the crankcase halves were facing when I took them. I plan on replacing all bearings, since the labor is pretty much done already. Before that I'll take the block and crankshaft to a machine shop for cleaning, checking over and any reconditioning. I didn't look too closely at the rods yet, but I'll check them out for damage. So I gather that the inside of the crankcase shouldn't look like this, but it's not as if it's ruined or anything?
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Hi,
I'm in the process of rebuilding my first engine...mainly just in the interest of learning how to do it. I bought an ej22 short block on ebay that looked like a good candidate for the venture. Just today I finished tearing it down, and when I separated the crankcase I noticed wear marks inside the crankcase. It looks to me like each connecting rod has been rubbing on the inside of the crankcase and making these marks, some of which are surprisingly deep. Is this normal?
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I replaced the lights behind my climate controls recently (97 OBW), and the bulbs I got at the dealership were much bigger than the originals. I thought they were incorrect, but they told me that Subaru changed the bulbs because the older version was prone to fail. Maybe you got one of these older ones. It's easy to tell if you got the newer bulb because it looks huge compared to the original.
A couple of weeks ago I sought out advice here on how to replace the backlights on my climate control panel and found a great walkthrough with pictures on how to do it. Except for the infamous circ-clips, it was a fairly easy process.Well, two weeks later ... one of the exact same backlights that was out before is out again. How is it a bulb only lasts two weeks???
I'm not sure I want to pull the assembly apart again as those stupid circlips could be the end of me. How annoying ... I suppose I could have some other electronic issue causing the bulb to fail, but most likely it's just coincidence and bad luck.
On a related topic, I some back lights on my radio were also out. These cannot be replaced as they are soldered to the the circuit board. A friend of mine had a couple of older Subie radios ... and, gee, surprise, surprise, they all had backlights out. Is the quality of these electronics really this poor?
Fortunately, he had one radio where everything seemed to be working. Although it was a different model (it didn't have the weatherband, whereas mine did) a cursory review of the two circuit boards revealed that they were likely compatible, and I swapped them successfully.
Now back to that @#$% climate control light ...
Spark Plug Change Problem
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Hi everyone,
I set out to change my spark plugs today (03 Outback Sport 2.5L) and was feeling downright proud of myself until I got to the last one. The 5/8 spark plug socket does not seem to fit on the plug. It's the plug behind the washer reservoir, and I've removed the reservoir to be sure I have enough room to work.
On the first three plugs I could feel the rubber grommet go over the plug and then a solid engagement of the metal socket, but on this one I seem to only feel the rubber grommet. When I spin the socket it feels like the rubber is just spinning on the porcelain part of the socket. I've never replaced them before, so I have no idea what's in there. The other three were Autolite plugs, but is it possible there's a different size head on the plug in this cylinder? I can't visually check it due to the angle, but maybe I can get some kind of dental mirror to have a peek inside.
Has anyone seen anything like this before? I ran a search and found this thread and the topic of an "antifouler":
http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96993
I really hope that's not the case.
Thanks for the help.