samisunjp

Any suggestions for which line to hook the guage up to? Never used one before.

Pcv are brand new and iac are clear. Ill check timing but, would that cause the stalling?

I pulled the one closest to the thermostat housing ( green pig tail connector) and checked the resistance with my multi-meter and some boiling water and the resistance seemed to change within spec as it heated and cooled.

I have a '94 loyale 5 speed spfi. Just re-did all of the seals on the engine and have her back in and hooked all up. Starting her up is a little rough but I can get her to stay running. The idle is low and when you step on the gas pedal it will either stall out or sputter and then start to steadily increase rpm but be very hesitant and not keep constant power. also will backfire once and a while when you step on it before the rpm's drop. I checked the TPS and it is within spec and the water temperature sender seems to be doing its job as well. Sprayed carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. Fuel filter is brand new. I appreciate any help or input that I can get!

Alright I'll be looking into that until then when I was checking the ohms for the tps at the ecu connector the fsm says to check between 26 and 35 for up to 6.5 ohms I was o my getting 1. Then it says to check for ohms between b and d on the tps and still only got 1 fsm says to replace tps, does this seem right?

Ill bolt the ecu back up and try wiggling the harness. The pins all look clean and so do the connectors. The connectors were fully seated into the ECU. I don't have access to another ECU on hand. I was checking for continuity in the connectors for the TPS. The TPS was giving me code 31.

I have a multi meter but am not a very good electrician, anyway to check which wire/s it could be? Something to do with the ignition if it just kills the car?

So I was adjusting my TPS today and had unplugged the ecu when I was messing around in the car and have the ecu loose. When I move the ECU it can cause the flashing sequence(check engine code) to start or stop. If I hold the ecu in a certain way I can get the car to start, once started though if I move the ECU it will instantly kill the car, regardless of what rpm it is at, as in it kills the spark to the engine. Help would be greatly appreciated!

I put the timing belts in aligned to the middle timing mark but then I rotated the engine again aligning to the zero degree mark prior to putting the distributor in, so I need to align it to the middle timing mark before putting the distributor in?

I just read a thread on here that says when doing the timing for the distributor you should not position the flywheel at the 0 degrees mark when you put the distributor in but rather align again to the middle timing mark and then put the distributor in with the rotor facing towards the hill holder. Is this proper procedure? I aligned it to the 0 degree mark when I first put the distributor in.

So I just got done resealing the engine in my 1993 loyale. It is an ea82 spfi. I got the engine back into the car. Put all the timing belts back on and fired her up, she runs then dies. It will run for maybe 10 or fifteen seconds at about 750 rpm then sputter out. If I get it started and give her some gas I can keep it at about 2500 rpms for a few seconds before the rpms completely drop and she sputters out. I checked the check engine code and it is giving me 31, throttle position sensor. I wasn't getting this code before I took the engine out. The tps doesn't seem to make a difference though as it does the same thing with it unplugged. It doesn't seem to turn over smooth either, when the starter is engaged it almost seems, jerky and rough, not the feeling it usually gives? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Kyle

I'll take my time and be extra careful. Has anyone heard of DNJ engine components for gaskets. I was thinking about just buying an entire gasket set to save some money, unless buying them individually would be preferred? https://www.amazon.com/DNJ-Engine-Components-FGS7026-Gasket/dp/B00TLG5SI8/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=GL%7C59&Year=1988%7C1988&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

I have driven it a little bit and the car seems to have a hesitation/ or stall when it is cold. I'll need to do some more testing to be sure. As far as leaks go it is apparent that it leaks quite a bit of oil. A lot seems to be coming from one of the valve covers. I should say that this really is a project car for me. I am really okay with letting it sit un-drivable for several months while I really build it up to make it very reliable. I have the time and a steady enough income to be able to get parts for it. In the end I would like the engine to be in really good shape, and most importantly very reliable. Hopefully before the summer this thing will be one badass battlewagon!

So after about a year of being out of the loyale game, I picked up another one! I am planning on pulling the engine and pretty much doing a reseal of the engine, as well as many other things while its out. My main question is if the head gaskets are not already blown is it a good idea to change them, or will it be not worth it? I've never done a head gasket before and am wondering if its more trouble than its worth if it is still holding fine. Are there any other seals that I should just avoid if they are still holding strong? Thanks, Kyle

So I moved the starter relay away from the engine near the fuel filter and that didn't work. My thought is that I am getting too much resistance with the car hot. However the sequence of connections is relay --> Fuse --> Positive on the starter, and all of the connections have no corrosion and seem to be in good condition! Any thoughts? I'm stumped.

I am talking about a 15 amp fuse that is in between the relay and the positive on the starter

Is it possible that the starter relay could be overheating. As of current it is just sitting loose near the engine, as I only suffer these symptoms when the car is warm, its starts fine cold. Can a relay be too hot?

A little update, The relay fuse doesn't seem to blow when the car is cold, so is the relay getting to hot, is that possible? Anyone have any ideas?

So guys I need a little help, A little while back I added a starter relay to my car to solver trouble starting and that worked great, until now. I try to start the car and the fuse on the relay blows. I replace the fuse and it blows as soon as I start it again. I have gone through many fuses. This does not seem to happen however when the car is cold, I will still have to check that in the morning. What could this be? I would really appreciate some input on this, Thanks, Kyle

So recently ( within the last few days) I have been working on my '88 gl wagon. I have had an oil leak with what seems to be the oil pump. Anyways After getting the car back together and starting it up I am loosing a lot less oil still some, but I am now hearing what seems to be a metal rubbing sound perhaps. I'm not quite sure what it is, but here is the sound with me holding my phone under the car I'll tell you all I did before hearing this noise, took out radiator took off timing belts took off oil pan took off oil pump replaced oil pump mickey mouse seal replaced oil pan gasket Put everything back on the car I probably should add I tried tightening belts and that did not seem to work So anyone have any ideas what this noise is?

A little update, I got this http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-WR1-Starter-Relay/dp/B001COAX78 and it was an easy install and worked like a charm. So I have a new starter in and the relay, I should be set for a while

Thanks for the help guys I will get the relay set up as soon as possible and use the other starter in the mean time.

So I have posted before about having starter issues with my 1988 subaru gl wagon, but they seem to be back. I thought I had fixed the problem by replacing the contacts that are in the starter and that seemed to do the trick, or so it seemed. I just got a rebuilt starter from my local auto parts store and upon installation the car will now not start. The solenoid inside of the starter does not seem to engage either. The other starter that I had on the car seems to work fine although it will sometimes not start on rare occasions. I will turn the key and nothing but my lights and fuel pump come on, no click from the starter. So, just to make sure I didn't get a dead starter, I jumped the new one by hooking it up to a battery and crossing the ignition line and the positive connection OUTSIDE OF THE CAR. It worked fine. I put the new starter back in the car and used a voltmeter to check the power coming to the ignition part of the starter and it seemed to be getting around only 6v when turning the key.If I am not mistaken I should be getting 12v on that ignition part of the starter. What is going on here? I have read a lot about a bad connection coming from the ignition and am wondering if this is the case and if I should install a relay if that will remedy this problem. If it is the wire coming from the ignition, can I just replace the entire wire?

Thanks BEECHBM69 I was able to take apart the starter and clean the two copper contacts like in the video and now that starter works great and I have not had any problems. I still have the other starter in reserve just in case however

Could one of you point me in the right direction for adding a relay to my car? That would be great!