loyale1993
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Posts posted by loyale1993
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I get a rattling/pinging sound from the old girl. I guess I could try a higher octane fuel or?
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I connected the green connectors and proceed to watch the blinking led. Only it isn't giving me a code other than the 7 designating flashes for my car. When I unplug the connectors the led will flash the codes. In this case it gave me 51 neutral switch open. Anyone have an explanation why the test connections don't work like they should? Thanks!
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I had my radiator leaking and took it to a repair shop. The guy showed me all of the areas that the radiator was leaking and told me it was not worth fixing and to purchase a new one. Everywhere the coolant leaked it left a white powdery residue. I wonder if I should have got a second opinion? Anyway I purchased the plastic/aluminum replacement from Rock Auto. It seems to work fine but I am noticing it running warmer than it used too. I suspect the electric fan is not working. I haven't really spent anytime trying to figure it out yet. For one thing I cannot get the fan unplugged from the sensor switch and I gave up on it for now lol.
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Update: Over my weekend I opened the hood to take the alternator out and found that the belt was very loose. Apparently I didn't tighten the bolt down enough.
Anyway, I removed the alternator and took it in to be bench tested and it passed. So I guess everything is fine for now. I still can't explain why my car battery randomly died after driving the car and it seems to be fine now? Gremlins I guess. Anyway thought ya'll would like to know. -
Good to know thanks!Testing with a multimeter doesn't do much. It needs to be load tested. All the lamps illuminating is pretty much all the testing you need though, it's time for a replacement.
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Ok, I will have it bench tested. It is the original and the car has around 170k so I'm sure it's time for a replacement. I originally took it to be bench tested but the parts store I went to didn't have the right harness for this alternator. They did test the battery and said the load amps checked out but the volts were a little low.
Thanks for your help fellas
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All of my warning indicators (Battery, AT oil temp, Parking brake, no CEL) came on. At first they were very dim and flickering but then fully lit after a couple minutes. Also, the other day I go to start my car after driving at highway speeds for 20 minutes and my battery was dead. I tested my alternator and it is putting out 14 volts and my battery is accepting the charge and has been fine for the last 4 or 5 days. Any ideas on what this could mean?
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After a few weeks of tinkering and testing I found the issue to be fixed by changing the Coolant Temperature Sensor.
Thanks for your help
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I put a new coolant temp sensor and it fixed the issue
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I tested it today when the car was cooling down and I got values in the 500 and continued to climb steady. I tested it when the engine was cold and could not get a reading. So I warmed up the engine and now getting values erratic between 290 and 350. I'm thinking this ect is shot.
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Thanks DaveT I plan on checking it today.
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I will retest with my meter on a higher setting. I didn't know the resistance was that high
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93 Loyale 3AT.
I recently replaced the radiator because of leaks and engine running warm. The thermostat (Stant) was replaced about 20k miles ago. I still notice the temp gauge goes half way up sometimes a little more and sometimes a little less. I am also noticing high idle (1,100-1,200 rpm) at operating temperature. I will put the car in neutral and the idle will rev to about 2,000 rpm then slowly die down to around 1,500 rpm. I then shift back into drive and idle will go to around 900 rpm. The high idle returns once I accelerate and come to another stop.
After reading the forums I have checked the ECT by the thermostat housing with a multi-meter when the engine was cold with around 5ohms and then at operating temperature with a lower reading around 1 ohm (IIRC it's been a few days). Also, I don't think my electric fan is kicking on but I have yet to test the sensor attached to the radiator that operates the fan.
Do the 2 sensors work together or is the one on the radiator strictly for the fan only?
I have not tested the IAC yet but I plan on it now that I am thinking about it. Still I wouldn't think that would solve my warm running problem?
There is no CEL
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I got it all installed the other day. I had a minor issue with the water pump pipe leaking so that was a pain in the a$$ Everything is working fine thus far though. I did feel that the radiator was very light and cheap but I guess time will tell how it holds up. As far as Rock Auto I have never used them before this but it seems like some don't care for them?
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Thanks DaveT!!There are 2 different lower outlets. The nearly straight one requires a different hose, shaped like an S. The angled outlet uses the same hose as the upper inlet.
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Replacing a radiator in my 93 loyale. The radiator store in my town wants $266
Anyway I found one at rock auto for $66 (plastic and aluminum) but the lower neck looks to be at a different angle than the stock one I took out.Reading back in the forum years ago it seems like the consensus is that it will fit. I would just like to confirm because I don't want the hassle of returning an item to an online dealer.
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For me it seems to happen more and more consistently every morning or every afternoon after work when the car has been sitting 8 hrs or more. However this morning I didn't notice it lolI have experienced a similar thing but not on regular occasion. The one common thing are cold damp mornings. Only happens about one a month when trying to accelerate at the bottom of my hill. Feather the pedal and it starts running normally.
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It's been happening after multiple fill ups. I tend to get my fuel from the same place in all of my vehicles and none of them are experiencing this issue.could just be bad fuel, did this start recently after a fill up ?
possibly dirty fuel filter/injector, dirty plugs, pcv valve
Start with the easy tests first.
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That's about as good as I can explain it. When engine is cold I will take off and there is a short moment of hesitation and sputtering. Once I get past the hesitation everything runs fine. There has not been a cel so I'm sure there is not a code. Possible vacuum leak? Any suggestions?
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It's up to Loyalewithcheese I promised him the 4 but if he doesn't want them all I am willing to send one your wayCan I have one too?! I'm in the same boat! Maybe split two and two?
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Believe I still have the 4 off the '92 parts Wagon.
edit;
Seems I still can't quote any post on here.
This was for I75eya.
end edit
I had the same quote problem too. click on the little square icon in the upper left hand corner of the comment box and then hit quote and it should work.
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I do, I was fixin to throw them away the other day. Pay for shipping I will send them to you, I have 4 if you want them. not sure on how to transfer the $
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Clean and dry the engine off. Go to a parts store and purchase a UV light kit and a bottle of fluorescent dye for coolant. Run the dye through the system and check all around with the UV light. Works pretty good I just did this to mine and found the leak at the T stat housing.
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When a take the timing belt covers off to inspect my oil pump leak I will be leaving them off. For one, they probably won't survive another removal and two, I think the benefit of having access to everything in the front of the engine is more important.
Ea82 pinging?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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No cel so I'm assuming the mass air flow sensor is ok. Do you recommend any starting point?