82Brat
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Posts posted by 82Brat
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Start by doing the simple stuff. Tightening the bolts on the oil pan might just stop your oil leak. Simple stuff builds confidence and you can work your way up from there.
Do not neglet a coolant leak! These engines (heads specifically) do not hold up well if overheated. Find out where the leak is coming from and get it fixed. It could be as simple as replacing a hose ot tightening a hose clamp. If the radiator itself is leaking, some radiator stop leak may work as a temporary fix.
Good luck on your quest and remember, it never hurts to ask.
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I've got you all beat! the original coil that came with my 82 GL Brat (24 years ago) still works just fine.
Crap...I hope I'm not jinxing it.
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If you coud do the work yourself, just about everything you listed could be fixed for about $200 including buying a half-way decent set of tools. You could get all the advice you needed on this forum and you would get a much better understanding of your car. Just an option to consider.
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You have to take the alternator apart. Brushes will generally last about 250,000 miles though.
OK only about 120K to go...I'll chek em at 200k...If I'm still alive:grin:
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How do you check for brush wear?
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Word of warning:
PCV system must always be vented to atmosphere (preferably through a filter).
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Let's put this into perspective. Lets' say you could by a car that's unusal, you'll get at least 100K out of the engine (even if it already has 100K on it), gets 25-30 MPG, fun to drive, easy to work on, and you can drive it through just about any kind of weather. Would you pay $3500?
Oh Yeah...and chicks dig it!
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The heater went cold - all of a sudden, one of the coolant hoses to heater core must have come off or your heater core struck a leak (look for puddles in the car!), this would explain no heat getting to T/stat and top hose as well, and empty radiator. The no start may or may not be relatedl
I don't mean to be sarcastic (or maybe I do) but if this happend while speeding down the highway, do you think he might have noticed?
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I tried to post pictures of my Brat, But I'm having a hard time figuring out how to do this.
Can anyone give me some pointers?And 75 Subie: How much ar you selling your Brat for? Is there an add in the For Sale forum?
Thanks,
Tonmy
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That's a swweeeeeeet looking Brat! How Much?
Undercoated an treated with what???
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Sending unit would be in the tank, and yes this could well be the problem.
What I meant to ask is: "Are the terminals connected inside our outside the tank (on soobs)." In other words, do you have to remove the whole fuel sending unit (which would then involve re-sealing) or can the terminals be cleaned and tightend from ouside the tank?
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also make sure carby mout bolts are tight--no air vaccum leaks
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Check ignition timing...should be 8 deg BTC. Also make sure all the mounting bolts on the carby are tight. Finally, could be a faulty anti-dieseling selonoid but I've only read about that and have no clue how to troubleshoot. I've gone to the Weber carb so I don't have one of those any more.
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As long as it cranks over, there is hope (at least the engine is not siezed). check all you fluids, make sure you are getting spark and fuel to the cylinders. If it still wont start, then it's time for a compression check.
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Old soobs + salt = rust.
I've been fighting the rust monster for years. Every spring it's scrape, sand, treat, prime, paint. I've tried lots of sprays and solutions that promise to keep rust at bay, had it zeebarted, use about three cans of undercaoting a year, everything I can think of. It's a pain, but I love the Brat (bought in new in 82). So I have to keep doing it.
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Could it be coroded/dirty electrical connections on the fuel sending unit? BTW does anybody know if these are internal or external to the tank?
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I need to replace the radio antenna on my 82 Brat. It's on the driver's side fender. I can see the back side where it come through the fender (with door open), but I can't easily reach it or make out how it's attached. Does anybody know what the correct method is for removing the antenna?
Thanks
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That does not sound good. Your "temp went into the red" but it "never overheated?" Sounds like wishfull thinking. You could be looking a warped heads or a blown headgasket (lost all coolant through the exahast?). I sincerely hope its not that bad.
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you might want to consider bearings instead of axles for the vibration. sometines just cleaning and repacking works.
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Anyone know what the bubbles in the fuel mean?
Thanks!
Aaron
Could you be sucking air back through the evaporate recovery canister or return fuel lines? Make sure everything except the fuel pressure line is well plugged and sealed. Also, try running it with the fuel tank gas cap off. You may need a venting gas cap rather than a sealed one.
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I wonder how much beer and ice one could get into the "tool box"?
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Hmm this might be my problem. My weber uses a LOT of fuel. A regulator might be the go.
I'm getting 30 mpg and I still have the AC connected!
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where is the spring and how do you defeat it?An where can I get the tumbler rebuilt?Can I buy one on ebay?
I'm no locksmith, just a backyard mechanic. I'll define the tumbler as the round center part where the key goes in, and the barrel as the larger metal piece that surrounds it. The tumbler rotates with the key, the barrel stays stationary.
OK, the spring lock runs lenghtwise along the barrel on the side that points towards the pedals. There is a rounded ear on the end of it. If you pull on the ear away from the center (with a small pick or silmilar tool), with the key in the tumbler, then pull while slightly twisting/jiggling the key, the whole tumbler and key should come out.
The ignition switch is on the other side of the steering column. This is held in with the two screws. There is a small metal bar with a paddle on each end that connects the key part (tumbler) to the ignition switch. You'll want to remove and keep this also. I believe this part is also used in locking the steering.
I've heard the tumblers can be rebuilt by a good old fashioned locksmith. This way you can use the original key and have the same key for door locks and ignition. I've just been to busy and lazy to have mine done so I just keep doing the screw driver start method.
I hope this helps,
Tony
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Make sure your PCV system is also vented to atmosphere, not just plummed to the intake through the PCV valve. I blew a front crankshaft seal because I overlooked this.
I have my o2 snsor disconnected with no ill effects.
I put a fuel pressure regulator on mine because Weber almost insisted. It's set to 2 PSI and it seems to work well. Picked it up at an auto parts store for about 15 bucks (or somthing like that).
Note: I think the problem in running without a fuel pressure regulator is getting too much fuel to the carb and flooding it out, especially during hard driving. Sort of counterintuitive eh?
My EGR is disconected and plugged for now but I'm thinking I'm going to block it off based on reading other posts in this forum.
Driver's door mirror
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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go to a glass shop...they should be able to cut one and glue it in for you...about $20 (probably a bit more in NYC?)