82Brat
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Posts posted by 82Brat
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This is the quick and dirty from what I can remember. It's not too hard to figure out once you see how it's put together. I've been starting my Brat for over a year this way. I've also hear of some guys wiring in toggle switches and push buttons.
Remove the plastic covers from under steering wheel column.
Disassemble key switch and remove. I think it's just two screws.
You also have to make sure that your steering colum lock will not engage if so equiped.
Ingnition switch (electrical) is actually on other side (diver's) of the column. Bring that over to the right (passenger) side of steering column. wires will be long enough
Use a screw driver to start while you get the key tumbler rebuilt. Note: do not turn screwdriver all the way. Keep it just a hair short of going all the way. If you turn all the way (until it stops) you loose the electrical contact and the starter does not engage. You soon get the hang of it.
You have to reassemble the plastic covers under the steering column to keep turn signals working.
To get the tumbler out of the cylinder, there is a little spring lock you have to defeat.
Hope this helps
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Yes...what the title asked. What is the I.D. of that pesky tube that goes from the top of the engine to the intake manifold on an EA81. It was too dark when I tried checking. Thanks.
-Justin.
If you're talking about the PCV vent tubes, they're about 5/8 inch ID. 5/8 heater hose works well.
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Yeah, 175 aint bad but I'll probobly get the industry standard crap steel and I'll be lookin at the same problem 3 or 4 years down the road. Stainless would be sweet, but unless you do it yourself, the cost would probably be way out of reach. Maybe one of these days, after I retire, I can put together a nice shop and really do some justice to the old Brat. Till then, I''ll just keep fighting the rust and try to keep her running. Thanks anyways.
Tony
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It was from stainless steel I think, I mean its not perfect but it does the job. I really didn't think about it holding up to NY standuards because it cost me nothing. I did all the work at my fathers garage and it was free of corse. It is not rusted though it was new pipe.
Stainless would be the way to go up here. If you're not too far from Rochester, do you think you could make one for my Brat?
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So, after doing a compression test to see why it wouldn't idle worth crap. Piston #1 has about 40psi of compression, piston #4 has about 65psi, at that point I felt it wasn't worth my time to check the other 2 pistons. Time to find another new moter for this car. I know the heads were just rebuilt on this engine, so I'm asumming the piston rings are just shot. I don't think anything else would cause the lack of compression, right? this is a solid ea81 lifter engine, in the 84 brat.
Are you sure it's a solid lifter motor? For some reason I'm thinking they swithced to hydraulic lifters in 83 (82 being the last solid lifter year). I could be wrong though, no data but a fuzzy memory to back me up.:-\
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Well I made the pipe today and it took all of about an hour. By the way uncoolperson that link just shows a rolled soob, that can't be what you wanted to show me.
What material did you make the pipe from? Do you think it will hold up to our NY winters and salt? The reason I ask is because I'm about to take my brat in for a cat-back exhaust system preplacement for $175 at monro muffler. That seems to be pretty reasonable especially since I don't have the tools/lift to make the pipe myself. Where in NY are you BTW?
Tony
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On my 87 turbo 4wd the exhaust pipe is gone from after the cat to the inlet of the muffler, does it go diagnoly across the under neat of the car and then over the left rear axcel. I think it does but i want to make sure. I am going to get the pipe and elbows but wanted to know if makeing this pipe is difficult.
I just looked at my 82 Brat and that's the way it goes on mine. I guess it didn't change much from 82 to 87.
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Hi Folks,
I just got a quote for $175 from monroe muffler to replace the exhaust pipe and muffler from the cat to the tail pipe on my 82 brat. I could try to make do with some muffler tape, but the whole thing looks pretty rotted out. Two large holes. One in the muffler, one in the pipe fom the cat.
Does $175 sound reasonable?
Thanks,
tony
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I am in the process of doing this on my 87 brat.
Ok here is the most usefull info I got. DOWN LOAD the pdf file for keeping your subaru alive. I bought it on ebay before I knew I could down load it here.
Where is this pdf file? I can't find it
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I've done enough to own the special tool for it....
GD
Oh Crap...
What special tool? Is there a work around? -
yep 2 bearings and 2 seals for each wheel, front or rear doesn't matter.
What year /model? also an 84 wagon? could an 82 brat be different?
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My Clymer manual is pretty good on wiring diagrams. It covers a pretty wide range of years (72 -82) which can be good or bad depending on your point of view. Also the pages are about 8 X 10 size which can make it a bit tough to trace the wires without enlarging.
Hope that helps
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How do I replace the front wheel bearings on a Gen 2 Brat (82). I ordered a set from Rockauto.com. I thought there would be an inner and outer for each wheel, but I only got two. Is this correct? And what is the preferred method for removal of the old and installation of the new?
Thanks
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Got one in my 82 GL Brat.
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82 Subie Brat is back on the road!
No leaks..runs awesome with the new Weber
Lessons learned:
Weber mod is great, but it's not just plug and play. Some creative modifications are usually needed.
PCV system MUST be properly vented (to engine bay or air box). Trying to tee both sides to the PCV valve likely popped my front main seal.
A short piece of 1 1/2-inch PVC pipe, cut to length from a 50-cent fitting form the hardware store, works well for taping in the new seal. Can also be used with a large washer and the crankshaft bolt to press it in.
Lining up the disty can be interesting. If the rotor points to #1 when the flywheel shows 8 deg BTDC, and it still won't start, it could be 180 out.:-\
Thanks for everyone's help in getting this project done!
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82 Brat, EA81, front crankshaft oil seal leak....
Repalcement seal from parts store was way too big....
Tried to push old seal back into place...
Tried to start Subie without pulley installed to see if it would hold oil pressure....
Subie did not start, and now worm gear that drives disty is sitting at front of hole....
Is this a very,very bad thing? How do I get things lined up again?
Thanks,
Tony
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You have to take the bottom of the steeing column cover off. The ignition switch is actually on the opposite side from where the key goes in. Once you see how it's put together its pretty obvious which screws to take out. You also havce to make sure that your steering colum lock (if so equiped) will not engage.
The wires on the ignition switch are long enough so that you can swing it over to the other side. Then use the slot in the switch to start the car with a medeum scredriver while you get the lock assembly rebuilt. When starting, don't move the screwdriver all the way or the satrter will cut out. It's like all the way minus a CH. I've been starting mine for about a year like this. BTW no worries about getting shocked.
I see no switch -
OK guys, I guess my plan of attack will be the screw driver, dental pick, and drill holes in that order.
Before I do, do you think it's worth the try to re-seat the seal that's in there now. It's sitting a little cock-eyed and feels a bit loose. I think I popped it by overpressurizing the crankcase. I recently put in a Weber and just teed both valve cover vents into the PCV valve which obviously could not handle the volume. I have the PCV system vented properly now, so do you think the seal might hold if I just press it back in?
Thanks,
Tony
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What's the best way to remove the front main (crankshaft) oil seal?
I.D. of tube from top of block to intake.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Duh..read the post...top of block...sorry :-\