Husky

Where was the ground that you cleaned up, if I might ask?

Purely out of curiousity here, but why do you replace the clutch fork, Caboobaroo? I just did a clutch job on my 170k OBW last summer and the clutch fork looked fine. Not saying that I know better, I'm still learning- which is why I'm curious why you choose to replace it.

Hi all, So the ABS light recently came on in my '99 OBW. I placed the ground pin into the diagnostic connector in order to get the DTCs and ended up with codes 56, 42, and 11 (The start code on the sequence) I understand code 56 to be for an 'abnormal G sensor output voltage' and code 42 to be 'source voltage is abnormal.' My question is, what's the best way to verify these codes? The car has around 175k miles so I wouldn't be surprised if a sensor went bad, but I'd like to check in order to make sure before ordering any parts. Is there a test I can do with a multimeter on the G sensor? If so, what is the location if the G sensor in my car? Also- is code 42 related to the G sensor as well, or is that a separate problem? Thanks!

Hi all, I have a 1999 OBW 5MT with ~175k on it, and I've noticed that it's running a little rough. It's definitely not too bad, and is quite livable, but I'm wondering if there might some cheap fix. The issues I've noticed, and I'm not sure they're even related, are that the idle is a bit rough when the engine's warm, and that the entire car jerks a bit if I come off the throttle too quickly. It also usually takes more cranking than I think a healthy car should to start. I'm pretty sure the issue isn't electrical, as I recently changed the spark plugs with ones recommended by my mechanic (I believe they were NGK irridiums.) I also changed the plug wires when I did this, as one had a torn boot. The battery is healthy as well, as tested with a multimeter. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I would think maybe to start by trying to clean the idle air control valve? Thanks

This might sound weird, but I'm quite happy right now, so.. Thank you. You are all beautiful people. ...The problem was *indeed* with the solenoid wire.. it wasn't attached. Funny thing is that I don't even remember taking that off when I removed the starter, so it was easy to miss putting it back on. Thank you again, my Subie is starting and running wonderfully now (and without any of the rumblies it had from before the center diff rebuild!)

imdew, when you say the small wire on the back of the starter, do you mean the wire that connects to the solenoid? I can take the starter out and take a look at it, but I don't think that should have become disconnected. Otherwise the only wires I know of that go to the starter are the ground wire and the positive cable. So.. which wire do you mean?

Hi all, I have a 1999 OBW with a 5 speed, and I just finished doing a transmission job on it... or so I thought. When I went to turn the key, I got no start and no crank. All that happens is a click in the cabin that sounds like a relay and a slight whir from the power steering pump. The starter motor shows the same voltage as the battery, but there is no change in voltage from either the battery terminals or the starter terminals when the key is turned. Things I have checked so far: -Neutral Switch and Reverse Switch connected -Transmission ground connected -Starter Motor appears to be connected correctly, with the negative on the bolt and the postive on the copper nut. -Battery has a healthy voltage (The multimeter wouldn't read it correctly, but we compared it to a good battery and it was identical) -Neutral Switch shows continuity in gear, and infinite resistance in neutral (which is contrary to what the Haynes Manual says should be correct? I *did* try starting it in gear instead to see if the logic was somehow reversed on the switch, but that had the exact same result) -Reverse Switch shows continuity in reverse, and infinite resistance elsewhere (which is what the Haynes Manual says is correct) -I did visually check the clutch switch on the pedal, and it appears to be functioning normally (it was also working before I did any work on the car, and is nowhere near the work that I did to the car.) Possible Related thoughts: -A few hours before I attempted starting the car, I attached it to a wall charger as it had been disconnected for almost a month. The charger was 12V 6A. -When filling the transmission with gear oil, a decent quantity of it spilled in the engine bay due to the pump I was using to fill it having a hose come off. I did clean up as best as I could. (Perhaps a short somewhere?) Any help and/or thoughts are appreciated Thanks!

Actually, scratch that. I took at look on the car side of things and only one of the connectors is gold there, being the black wire, #3 on the diagram. I think the yellowred is actually the ground connection for the heater? Edit: I found a pinout for the ECU. Pin 23 on the ECU is for the sensor, and pin 38 is for the heater, so the black wire on my sensor should theoretically go to the black wire on my car and the two white wires should go to either of the other two wires. I'll do that and it hopefully won't throw a code. Thanks for the help!

So I managed to find the wiring diagram for the sensor at this link http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Barlogio/2010-11-27_160852_leg113a.png What I am wondering about now is which wires go to where on the sensor side of things. The sensor itself has two white wires and one black wire, with the black wire having gold on it as Fairtax4me mentioned. From what I've read, Fairtax4me is right about the two white wires being heater wires and being interchangable, so I want to know where the black wire goes. I'm not very good at reading wiring diagrams, am I right in thinking that the yellowred wire is the sensor wire in this case?

Hi all, I have a 1999 California spec OBW, and I've got an issue with the connector on its front O2 sensor. In taking off the exhaust in order to remove the transmission, I accidentally let it drop before I had disconnected the O2 sensors. The rear sensor was fine, but on the front sensor, the metal prongs slid out of the plastic clip that held them in. (Pictures below) What I need to know is in which orientation to reattach the prongs to the plastic clip. Has anyone else had this happen to them that might know which way around it goes? (It matters because the plastic clip, though a symmetrical triangle, has the pinch clip thing on one side of it and thus only goes in one way.) If not, does anyone perhaps have a pinout for that O2 sensor? Thanks!

Bump

http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru+Transmission+Chart seems like the link copied incorrectly. Here is the actual link.

Hi all, I'm taking my transmission out in a few weeks because the diff is grinding around corners, and I'm currently searching for a replacement unit. I'm wondering about the compatibility of various transmissions with a 99 OBW. Having read into transmission swaps a little, it's my impression that many of the units end up being compatible with the only potential complication being that you might need to swap the rear diff if the ratio is different. Taking a look at this chart, Www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru+Transmission+Chart I see that, for example, the GT transmission for 99 is the same, with the exception of having a lower 5th gear (which actually seems like it'd help with highway mpg) Am I right in thinking that there wouldn't be an issue with using that transmission in my OBW because the diffs are the same, or are there other complications?

Something like this on Amazon.http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KSB04-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5EMS4

Well, I don't really want to pull the engine because the rest of it seems pretty solid (besides a slight leak from the timing belt cover that I take is probably a cam seal.) I'm already going to pull the tranny anyway because the front diff needs a rebuild, as it is grinding around corners. As the clutch it also getting old, the transmission removal seems an ideal time to replace it and fix any leaks behind the flywheel. On that topic, does anyone have recommendations on where to get a clutch kit? It's my impression that exedy made the oem clutch, so I should get one from them. Also, does anyone know a good source for used transmissions? Most of the websites I've found so far are rather shady to say the least.

Yeah, I did a quick google and discovered references to that plate. Looks like I should be able to get to it as easily as the rear main seal though, without removing the engine, right? I'm doing a clutch job this summer anyway.

What cover do you mean? Also- what leads you to believe that?

Hi all, My 99 outback w/ manual transmission has recently sprung a leak, bad enough that I have had to add over a half a quart of oil in the past few weeks. The leak appears to be coming from the rear of the engine, above the oil pan, and is dripping down on to the exhaust just below the transaxle. It doesn't seem to leak while the car is sitting still, only while it is under load, or after it has freshly been shut down. My thoughts are that the likely source of the leak is the rear main seal. I was just curious as to whether or not anyone else has had similar issues with their real main seal, and whether someone could possibly confirm or deny my (somewhat of an educated guess) diagnosis.

Hey all. I have a '99 Legacy Outback Wagon that has a bad differential inside the transaxle. It's already been diagnosed and I know this to be the issue. (It has also already happened once before on this car, which we fixed by getting a junkyard unit installed that lasted for a fairly long time.) The car is perfectly drivable in the meantime, but I have been quoted 2700 dollars to have a mechanic do the job himself, and due to the age of the car, I'd probably just scrap it if the problem became bad enough, rather than pay that price. (I don't really want to do this if I can help it. Lots of good memories in the car.) What I'm wondering is how difficult it would be to replace the transaxle on my own. I've never done such a thing before, but I do have a full toolset and I am decently handy. I know that it'll probably involve removing the exhaust and such in order to get access to it. Also, in a similar vein, would it be worth the extra work to pull one from a junkyard myself before replacing it on my car? If I were able to pull it, I could get one from the local pick-n-pull for 99$. Any thoughts (including other options I havn't mentioned) and advice are appreciated. Thanks!

Glancing over the lines things seem pretty okay. The actuator seems okay as well, though I could be missing something. Like I said, I was able to move the throttle by sucking on a hose that was attached to the actuator, so that seems to imply to me that it is in working condition.

I have a '99 Legacy Outback on which the cruise control has stopped working. I've already checked the fuses and the switches on the clutch and brake pedals. I also know the actuator is working because I took a length of hose attached to the back of it and sucked on it, which made the throttle move. Here's where things get kinda weird. I attached a vacuum gauge to the line just behind the actuator and fed it in through my window so that I could test it at speed. In activating the cruise control, the vacuum gauge would intermittantly jump up to ~14 pounds before jerking back to 0. It would only do this about half the time. The other half, after resetting the cruise control, there was no reaction from the gauge at all. Since the guage did show vacuum some of the time, I think I can rule out the switches on the steering wheel, but I'm having trouble narrowing it down further. Could it be a faulty actuator pump? Or is it perhaps the control module? The vacuum lines and the linkage to the throttle all seem to be fine, though when I first noticed the problem, I did find the line that goes from the actuator pump to the rest of the system just floating around in the engine bay. (Reconnecting it did not fix the problem.) Any thoughts are appreciated!