jwc41

I've run BFG Radial T/A's for the past two years, 35K mi on my '96 OBW. I went up one size to 215's. On dry pavement they are quiet and quite sticky in rain/snow. I also drive graded and unimproved dirt roads at least twice a month and have yet to detect any unintended wheel spin. The wear is superb, I expect they'll go at least another 20K before the tread reaches the wear indicators.

I'd find out from the owner if it was registered on the "My Subaru" site maintained by SofA. If so, ask him/her to get into it so you can see the data. All work done by a dealer is supposed to be posted automatically. The owner can input maintainence and repair data too. Your review of the data online couldn't hurt, and may reveal answers to issues raised by others here.

I second the wet/dray sandpaper fix. It appears that over time the heat from the lamps oxidizes some of the plastic coating Subaru puts on the outside of the lamp assembly to protect it, so removing that layer of oxidation is the only sure cure. The brake fluid is a wonderful anti-oxidant for a temproray cure, but it will evaporate in a few days. I took a shortcut and used 600 grit to cut the haze faster, then 800 and finally 2000. I probably should have used something between the latter two, because the 2000 won't smooth out all the scratches left by the 800. But I was desperate and those 3 grits were all I could find at the nearby Ace Hardware. It was still a huge improvement because I can see the edges of the beams again. The plastic is thick enough that I didn't get down to glass. You might try a local auto-body supply store for different grits. Be sure to use lots of water as you sand, it will carry away the residue and prolong the life of the sandpaper. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

Cold air on 100+ days is a necessity, in any car. With my daughter's 96 OBW 5mt, constant A/C use causes the mileage to drop by 5-10%, from 24+mpg around town to 22-23mpg. Highway A/C use brings mileage from 28+mpg down to 25+mpg. When I drive it, I try to help a little by turning the compressor off briefly when starting from a stop and when pulling a hill. Although I have a nagging hunch that my "help" is minimal, it makes me feel better and gives me more engine power in those situations. . Good luck on your trip.

Try ceramic pads. I used to be a fan of sintered-metallic linings because of their stopping power and fade resistance. But every one squealed, some more than others, due to dust build up. My wife has proven resistant to using engine compression as a brake. She can't get the hang of moving the auto trans gear selector from "OD" to "D" or "2" and just rides the brakes down our hill. I had to turn or replace the rotors in her Suburban every 8-10 months or 10K-12K miles. In desperation I tried the more expensive ceramic pads from Raybestos the last time I replaced the rotors and they have now gone 15K miles with no hint of warp and no squeal. It seemed the ceramic pads didn't have quite the stopping power of metallic, but they are absolutely quiet and their fade resistance seems as good because there is far less heat build up. So, I replaced the pads in my squealing Mits Montero, and all became quiet. I have since replaced the pads on my son's Jeep Cherokee and my daughter's '96 Outback(we're 4wd/awd fans) with ceramic pads, with similar results. I also noticed that the difference in stopping power with the lighter cars is less perceptible. I'm sold. The front pads for the Outback were $50 at Checker. Make sure you use the lube along the contact edges of the pad's backing plate since that can be a source of squealing too. John

I recently purchased a '96 Outback Wagon (5mt, EJ22, 114K) for my daughter to commute to college. Having owned two 4wd GL wagons back in the 80's and 90's, I knew the advantage of having a reliable car that gets good gas mileage and can safely navigate the Utah winters. Compared to those slow and sturdy GL's, this OB is a rocket ship! But there were several things that needed attention, so I joined this board and got the necessary information to: - cure the CEL and idle fluctuations by replacing the knock sensor and the ECU's coolant temp sensor (it idles perfectly now and no CEL); - fix the cruise by installing the $4 plastic insert in the clutch pedal arm; - shine up the heat-hazed outer plastic on the headlamp assemblys with some brake fluid; and - buy the little bulbs from Radio Shack to tackle replacing the burned out climate control lamps. I can't say I look forward to the next issue that will pop up, but having this board as a resource will sure make whatever it a lot more bearable. You folks have saved me a lot of time, money and aggravation, so please accept my heart-felt "Thanks!" John

Maybe you already thought of this and ruled it out, but is it possible you received two valet keys instead of a master? The center grooves and ridges of the two are of different width and location so the valet key will not work at all in the rear deck lock. If so, you might be able to get a locksmith to use the valet key as the template to cut a master.