Legacywagon

damn it. So I don't need to use any socket right To pull that hose? Just pull it out right? Because I saw in Google that there is this part that has a thread on it but it was for the ej22.

Oh. I did move the clamp (the bottom pcv hose) to more to the top. After that, I tried to pull it out and won't budge.I know I didn't pull it hard enough because I was ontop of ice. I almost slip too many times. Do I need a socket to stick it down at the bottom Of the pcv hose to remove it after I move the clamp a bit upward ..? Or i need more strength to pull it harder.

Does anyone know a trick how to take out the whole pcv valve hose? Like the base To the end that connect the pcv valve? So I can put my deep socket to the coolant sensor.

Oh ok. After I replace the coolant temperature sensor, do I have to burp the radiator again incase of air?

Actually, I think you are right. I did give it some gas, and the car stays on. As soon as I let go, it died. No check engine light or anything. All of a sudden that day. Do you think I can replace the engine coolant temperature sensor from the experience I mention? Also, I will buy engine coolant temperature sensor tomorrow. I may replace it tomorrow or Monday because I have to go to a state court for my class. Is it okay if we can keep in touch for this time being?

First time, I press the gas pedal a bit. It start and idle at 700 rpm.It should be 1500 rpm since the engine is cold. So I turned it off.I cranked it again and give it gas pedal and starts. As soon as it starstart, I tap the gas pedal twice to rev the engine and it rev up fine. As soon as I let go off the gas pedal, it died. I went to the back exhaust. And I smell the inlet exhaust real close and it smell like gaS. Question: 1. What is ect? 2.I did some research that it can be coilpack. The reason why I say this, fuel pump work and prime, so I was thinking of a spark. I don't think it's wires or spark plugs because it's so weird that all 4 wires or plugs just go bye bye at once. Do you think I should go to my local napa autoparts and buy one then return it if it will not work? 3. This "ect" how hard is it to get to? I have a bit of car experience. I change pcv valve, valve cover gasket set, spark plugs, radiator, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, crankshaft and camshaft sensor. I may left out some experience but those are some of my experiences in fixing my subaru.

Sorry for late. I change the Rip hose that I mentioned. It took awhile because was hard and stuc. So I did open the gas pedal a bit like you said. It started but it was idle at 700 rpm.It sounded not right. Cold start should be 1500 rpm or so. I turned the car off and it crank but won't start without pedal. So I did look at the exhaust and smells it. Smell like fuel. Since you are in Fairfax. I drove this to laurel the day before this happen. So it's out of the blue. any suggestions? No cel either I even scan it. I did bought an eBay coilpack for time being December 2014. Could coilpack be an issue? I think it have warranty on it.

Hey guys. I have a 2000 subaru legacy wwagon And I live in maryland area. Maryland got hit hard with snow and temperature got below negative degrees almost every day. This year is probably the most coldest and most snow we ever had for a while. So in February 14 (valentine day) it was so cold that it snowed a lot and icy to covered the first layer. My car started out fine even though I have a rip fuel hose (the hose 2 inches lonG).The hose is located where the first injector rail at. It was leaking at cold start. Once the engine is fully warm, it doesn't seem to leak. 7 Days after that, temperature drop again to negative degrees and one-digit degrees. I still managed to start my car. Now, in February 25 I did drove the subaru And start fine. I Even drove it 30 miles. Two days ago(Thursday), I cant start my car. Bear in mind, it still have the same rip fuel hose. the day before, I filled up the gas because my tank was below 1/4. I shouldn't have done that but I had so much school work that every minute counts and it did paid off. My fuel pump did prime and fuel leak to that hose I mentioned. What's weird:when I cranked the car and give it some gas and revved one time, it started but it was at 200 rpm. Then, it died 5 seconds later. Here is the video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JfhiC-8g8j8

oh okay. Deleted that video and posted a new video. This is the new video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxVtXBR4VW4

Car: 2000 Subaru legacy l wagon thought I fix the intermittent rough idle and misfire by replacing pvc valve ($3) last month. It keep doing it. It's been intermittent misfire for 3 months and not driving it for 3 months, but I start it once a while. I change passenger and driver side valve cover gasket with the felpro kit. It was easy and took me under 2 hours. Little bit of oil went inside all 4 spark plugs well so I cleaned them up with brake cleaner and let it sit overnight. Next day, I use a rag to clean the inside. Today, I change 4 spark plugs (pre-gap at .035) so I gapped all of them to .041. after I install it, I drove the car around and no misfire for 4 miles. Came back from Giant food store and My car turn off at a traffic light idling. I restart it and misfiring with 2 codes (SOOO HAPPY. There was no code before this with the rough idle and misfire). The problem: -I scan it at home and says cylinder 1 and 2 misfire. While the car misfire, I unplug cylinder 2 top spark plug wire connection that connect to the coil pack and no spark. I did this same procedure with the cylinder 1 wire and gave me the same result. When the car stop misfiring, I unplug the cylinder 2 spark plug wire that connect to the ignition coil and there was spark, but seems weak comparing to cylinder 3 and 4. While the spark plugs wire NOT connected, the ignition coil gives no spark again. so is this ignition coil? I did ask two autozone and they said it is ignition coil. Also, I went to a 5 star auto mechanic shop from 20+ reviews near my area and they said the ignition coil is the problem. What you think? HERE IS THE VIDEO (please excuse my happiness. Been figuring out this misfire): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vh8fUuOxAVU

Hello. Thanks for reply. I am not sure what you mean the values. Care to explain? I am an amature mechanic.. Just learning. Also, the link you gave me no longer exist :/

Hi guys i want to wish you all a late merry christmas and i finally turn 21. (Legal now) lol. I want to post my 2000 legacy wagon picture here. As soon as i know how to post it. I finally fix my puttering issue and stalls when i come to a stop. My pcv valve was clogged up so bad that i have to shake it hard. Even i shake it hard, sometimes it still stuck. I replace my pcv valve today and took it a drive and drive good. PROBLEM: Now, I have p0507 idle air control system RPM higher than expected. Before this pcv valve and p0507 code: I change: -idle air control valve (25-35miles ago. I think i reset ecu.) -throttle position sensor (2 miles ago. Forgot if i reset ecu). Any suggestion? Should i reset ecu?

To be honest. Its base on preference. I bought my 2014 nissan altima last year brand new with 7 miles. The radio was okay until i close the door. Outside noise are blocked out and just turn the volume to 16, all i can hear is my music. Now at 3,700 miles and still love the sound system. When i turn to volume 30 (around mid volume) the outside mirror and rear view mirror shakes when i listen to rap song. If i were you try it out.

Thanks for telling me. I was about to buy thermostat, but i didnt. I dont know if i did this right? Maybe too fast? Before burping the radiator (yes this is a brand new radiator: -heater blows cold air -upperhose was cold -radiator tank was cold too. -engine overheats. I even bought a new radiator cap During burping: -I open the radiator cap and let it warm up while filling the coolant into the radiator. -radiator turns on for a very long time because radiator and hoses is cold, but the temp gauge needle at half. Eventually, stops -once the radiator and hose starts to warm, the fan stops. -i keep filling the radiator whenever the coolant rush in(thermostat opens). -during this, there was bubbles, but not that crazy like in youtube videos. -after that, i kinda rev the car up and coolant spilled everywhere (should of NOT done that). I panick and turn the car off. Wait 10 seconds and start the car. Everything is okay (whew). There was smoke at the engine bay where the coolant spilled. My mom thought i blow the engine. It stop smoking though. - I did this process for a long time. -now the radiator hose is hot and the radiator is hot. -yes the cooling fan turns on and the coolant rush in to cool the engine. Done: -now, the heater blows hot air. -Radiator hoses and radiator is now hot. -radiator fluid is hot. Also, I did this process only ONCE and for ONE HOUR. Did i do this right..?

Forgot to say. Before the radiator leak, my temp never goes up from normal. Also, temps never go up from normal even after radiator leak. After i change the radiator, i get overheat. Why is that?