Legacywagon
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Posts posted by Legacywagon
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Oh. I did move the clamp (the bottom pcv hose) to more to the top. After that, I tried to pull it out and won't budge.I know I didn't pull it hard enough because I was ontop of ice. I almost slip too many times. Do I need a socket to stick it down at the bottom Of the pcv hose to remove it after I move the clamp a bit upward ..? Or i need more strength to pull it harder.Usually there is a bitch of a clamp on the PCV hose at the bottom and its a real pain to get a socket in there to tighten a new clamp.
Easier to just use a 19mm wrench on the sensor. It shouldn't be all that tight.
There is a copper crush ring on the sensor that seals it to the pipe. You may need to transfer that ring to the new sensor. Some new ones come with it and some don't.
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Does anyone know a trick how to take out the whole pcv valve hose? Like the base To the end that connect the pcv valve?
So I can put my deep socket to the coolant sensor.
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Yeah you'll be able to do that just fine. Just be careful of the vacuum hoses in that area. Old hoses are brittle and may break.
Some coolant will come out when you remove the sensor. Just be ready to pop the new sensor in quick to minimize coolant loss.
You should test it first like I described before. The problem could be something else like the MAF sensor, or could be fuel pressure related. I don't know how much those ECT sensors are, but no point spending money if you don't have to.
Oh ok. After I replace the coolant temperature sensor, do I have to burp the radiator again incase of air?
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Actually, I think you are right. I did give it some gas, and the car stays on. As soon as I let go, it died.ECT is Engine Coolant Temp. The ECT sensor tells the computer when the engine is cold and that makes it idle high. If you know someone with a scanner that can read live data you can see the ECT output and see if it thinks the engine is warm.
If the ECU thinks the engine is warm it will not idle high and the fuel mixture will be lean so it won't run right. You can test this by keeping the engine running for 2-3 minutes, then it will warm up and should stay running on its own. Shut it off and see if it will restart. If it does shut it off and let it cool down for about 2-3 hours then try to start it again. If the ECT is bad it will probably do the same as before, crank but won't start and idle low if it does start.
ECT sensor is below the intake manifold on the back of the coolant pipe on top of the block.
Remove the PCV hose and you can get a 19mm wrench on it to loosen it.
Its kind of hidden right under where the wire harness runs underneath the manifold.
No check engine light or anything. All of a sudden that day. Do you think I can replace the engine coolant temperature sensor from the experience I mention?
Also, I will buy engine coolant temperature sensor tomorrow. I may replace it tomorrow or Monday because I have to go to a state court for my class. Is it okay if we can keep in touch for this time being?
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First time, I press the gas pedal a bit. It start and idle at 700 rpm.It should be 1500 rpm since the engine is cold. So I turned it off.I cranked it again and give it gas pedal and starts. As soon as it starstart, I tap the gas pedal twice to rev the engine and it rev up fine. As soon as I let go off the gas pedal, it died. I went to the back exhaust. And I smell the inlet exhaust real close and it smell like gaS.Not likely the coil pack.
Could be a bad ECT sensor.
If it starts when you hit the gas pedal, can you keep it running by giving it some gas to keep the idle up?
Question:
1. What is ect?
2.I did some research that it can be coilpack. The reason why I say this, fuel pump work and prime, so I was thinking of a spark. I don't think it's wires or spark plugs because it's so weird that all 4 wires or plugs just go bye bye at once. Do you think I should go to my local napa autoparts and buy one then return it if it will not work?
3. This "ect" how hard is it to get to? I have a bit of car experience. I change pcv valve, valve cover gasket set, spark plugs, radiator, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, crankshaft and camshaft sensor. I may left out some experience but those are some of my experiences in fixing my subaru.
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Sorry for late. I change the Rip hose that I mentioned. It took awhile because was hard and stuc. So I did open the gas pedal a bit like you said. It started but it was idle at 700 rpm.It sounded not right. Cold start should be 1500 rpm or so. I turned the car off and it crank but won't start without pedal. So I did look at the exhaust and smells it. Smell like fuel.If you crack the throttle open a little while cranking will it start?
The 00-04 models have a common issue with the fuel pump. Costs about $65 to fix but it's better than buying a whole pump assembly at $400+.
Second page of this thread has good pics of the part, new part numbers and links to part and new o-ring. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129528-fuel-pump-leaky-o-ring-other/page-2
Since you are in Fairfax. I drove this to laurel the day before this happen. So it's out of the blue.
any suggestions? No cel either I even scan it. I did bought an eBay coilpack for time being December 2014. Could coilpack be an issue? I think it have warranty on it.
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Hey guys.
I have a 2000 subaru legacy wwagon And I live in maryland area. Maryland got hit hard with snow and temperature got below negative degrees almost every day. This year is probably the most coldest and most snow we ever had for a while.
So in February 14 (valentine day) it was so cold that it snowed a lot and icy to covered the first layer. My car started out fine even though I have a rip fuel hose (the hose 2 inches lonG).The hose is located where the first injector rail at. It was leaking at cold start. Once the engine is fully warm, it doesn't seem to leak.
7 Days after that, temperature drop again to negative degrees and one-digit degrees. I still managed to start my car. Now, in February 25 I did drove the subaru And start fine. I Even drove it 30 miles.
Two days ago(Thursday), I cant start my car. Bear in mind, it still have the same rip fuel hose. the day before, I filled up the gas because my tank was below 1/4. I shouldn't have done that but I had so much school work that every minute counts and it did paid off.
My fuel pump did prime and fuel leak to that hose I mentioned.
What's weird:when I cranked the car and give it some gas and revved one time, it started but it was at 200 rpm. Then, it died 5 seconds later.
Here is the video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JfhiC-8g8j8
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oh okay. Deleted that video and posted a new video. This is the new video:
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Car: 2000 Subaru legacy l wagon
thought I fix the intermittent rough idle and misfire by replacing pvc valve ($3) last month. It keep doing it.
It's been intermittent misfire for 3 months and not driving it for 3 months, but I start it once a while.
I change passenger and driver side valve cover gasket with the felpro kit. It was easy and took me under 2 hours.
Little bit of oil went inside all 4 spark plugs well so I cleaned them up with brake cleaner and let it sit overnight. Next day, I use a rag to clean the inside.
Today, I change 4 spark plugs (pre-gap at .035) so I gapped all of them to .041. after I install it, I drove the car around and no misfire for 4 miles. Came back from Giant food store and My car turn off at a traffic light idling. I restart it and misfiring with 2 codes (SOOO HAPPY. There was no code before this with the rough idle and misfire).
The problem:
-I scan it at home and says cylinder 1 and 2 misfire. While the car misfire, I unplug cylinder 2 top spark plug wire connection that connect to the coil pack and no spark. I did this same procedure with the cylinder 1 wire and gave me the same result. When the car stop misfiring, I unplug the cylinder 2 spark plug wire that connect to the ignition coil and there was spark, but seems weak comparing to cylinder 3 and 4. While the spark plugs wire NOT connected, the ignition coil gives no spark again.
so is this ignition coil? I did ask two autozone and they said it is ignition coil. Also, I went to a 5 star auto mechanic shop from 20+ reviews near my area and they said the ignition coil is the problem.
What you think?
HERE IS THE VIDEO (please excuse my happiness. Been figuring out this misfire): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vh8fUuOxAVU
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Hello.
Thanks for reply.
I am not sure what you mean the values. Care to explain? I am an amature mechanic.. Just learning.
Also, the link you gave me no longer exist :/
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Hi guys i want to wish you all a late merry christmas and i finally turn 21. (Legal now) lol.
I want to post my 2000 legacy wagon picture here. As soon as i know how to post it. I finally fix my puttering issue and stalls when i come to a stop. My pcv valve was clogged up so bad that i have to shake it hard. Even i shake it hard, sometimes it still stuck. I replace my pcv valve today and took it a drive and drive good.
PROBLEM: Now, I have p0507 idle air control system RPM higher than expected.
Before this pcv valve and p0507 code:
I change:
-idle air control valve (25-35miles ago. I think i reset ecu.)
-throttle position sensor (2 miles ago. Forgot if i reset ecu).
Any suggestion? Should i reset ecu?
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To be honest. Its base on preference. I bought my 2014 nissan altima last year brand new with 7 miles. The radio was okay until i close the door. Outside noise are blocked out and just turn the volume to 16, all i can hear is my music. Now at 3,700 miles and still love the sound system. When i turn to volume 30 (around mid volume) the outside mirror and rear view mirror shakes when i listen to rap song.
If i were you try it out.
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Thanks for telling me. I was about to buy thermostat, but i didnt. I dont know if i did this right? Maybe too fast?
Before burping the radiator (yes this is a brand new radiator:
-heater blows cold air
-upperhose was cold
-radiator tank was cold too.
-engine overheats. I even bought a new radiator cap
During burping:
-I open the radiator cap and let it warm up while filling the coolant into the radiator.
-radiator turns on for a very long time because radiator and hoses is cold, but the temp gauge needle at half. Eventually, stops
-once the radiator and hose starts to warm, the fan stops.
-i keep filling the radiator whenever the coolant rush in(thermostat opens).
-during this, there was bubbles, but not that crazy like in youtube videos.
-after that, i kinda rev the car up and coolant spilled everywhere (should of NOT done that). I panick and turn the car off. Wait 10 seconds and start the car. Everything is okay (whew). There was smoke at the engine bay where the coolant spilled. My mom thought i blow the engine. It stop smoking though.
- I did this process for a long time.
-now the radiator hose is hot and the radiator is hot.
-yes the cooling fan turns on and the coolant rush in to cool the engine.
Done:
-now, the heater blows hot air.
-Radiator hoses and radiator is now hot.
-radiator fluid is hot.
Also, I did this process only ONCE and for ONE HOUR.
Did i do this right..?
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Forgot to say.
Before the radiator leak, my temp never goes up from normal. Also, temps never go up from normal even after radiator leak. After i change the radiator, i get overheat. Why is that?
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Hello all. I just join in and i want to say greeting mates.
I have 2000 legacy wagon. The 76k original miles. 4 days ago, my radiator leak from the tank. I didnt use stop leak because i heard bad stuff about it. I replace my new radiator and idle air control valve. I reset the ecu today. It runs okay.
I have a bit of overheating problem. I thought it was the radiator cap, but i just replace it today. The water temp gauge is a bit slow to get to normal temperature. Once it reach normal temperature, the car not overheats. Maybe, 4-5min after the normal temps, the temps start to rising close to 3/4 (both fans turns on non-stop. When i turn the car off, both fans stop working and temps go down).
Radiator hose is just a bit warm. Like i can just hold it no problem. And the radiator tank seems cold. Now, I wait couple hours later for car to cool. I open the radiator cap and start the car. I let it go to normal temps. The black hole that you put radiator cap, the coolant dont seems to move at all... And yes its a bit smoking which is normal.
Questions:
1. Is this the thermostat?
2. Everytime replace the old clog..eventually leaky radiator, do you replace thermostat?
3. I dont think its the headgasket. Before the old very dirty radiator that causes clog and eventually leaks inside the tank..no bubble and all
engine cranks but wont start have a video
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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