nitroman58

I usually keep a car for 10 to 15 years, unless the maintenance expenses approximate the value of the car.So Mobil I extended performance is the one?

Thanks for the excellent links and discussion. If I were to trial another oil in warmer weather months, would 5W-20 synthetic be the best choice?

I have been investigating this issue also. I drive a 2011 Forester with a manual transmission. When I park the car during the summer months, I detect a burnt oil smell. I hear piston knocking during the warmer weather months as well. During the first year, the dealer told me that was normal. I recently put a call into Subaru of America in Cherry Hill, N.J. They told me that there should be no more than 1/3rd quart of oil for 1200 miles. I am still monitoring this, as I have not driven that distance as of yet. I know that there have been two class action lawsuits on this issue. I have a co worker that told me that the piston rings on his Audi A4 were replaced at 55,000 miles (under warranty). My wife has a 2014 Imprenza sport which does not have any oil consumption issues, on the other hand. I feel that the thinner weight (0W-20) is at least part of the issue. As Nipper states, it is used to improve MPG rating. I am seriously considering switching to 0W-30 synthetic during the warmer weather months. Currently, I have 36,000 miles on the car, so I am still within the warranty period. I do not think that all of the newer Subaru's have this issue, however.

Is there someone that I can use for routine maintenance in the State College Pa area? I am talking inspection, oil change, etc.

Okay, I have been following directions on various websites, but I cannot get the horn to chirp. Is there a step that I need to modify, or evaluate more carefully? These are the directions which I have followed: 8. Program remotes: works on Alpine system. Unlock all doors, foot on brake, all doors closed. Cycle key quickly but carefully on-off appr 10 times until the car honks one time. Do not turn the key far enough to start the car, just to the 'on' position so the dashboard lights up. When the horn honks, open and close the driver's door, press any remote button and that's it. Program another remote? Quickly open and close the driver's door again and push a button on the 2nd remote. That's it. When you're done, remove the key and the horn should honk 3 times. You're all set. Sometime it takes more than 10 on-offs to set program mode. Open/close the door, lock/unlock etc, wait 10 minutes, then try again. more detailed instructions If your car is equipped with security system disarm it (with another remote if you have one or by turning the key ON LOCK 3 times in 5 seconds). Take the key out of ignition (the key has to be taken out). The next steps have to completed in 45 seconds. Open and close driver door (the door open light has to come on/off on the cluster). Put the key into ignition. Turn the key ON LOCK 10 times in 15 seconds, leaving the key in LOCK position (do not take the key out). Horn will sound once to indicate you are in remote programing mode (if the horn does not sound start over). Open and close the driver door (this has to be done within 45 seconds of step 4). Press and release any button on the remote. Horn will sound 2 times to indicate that the remote has been programed. If you have more remotes, repeat steps 8 to 10 (up to 4 remotes could be programed). Remove the key from ignition. Horn will sound 3 times to indicate the completion of the procedure.

Also, one of the tires has a slow leak. I added air last Thursday, and brought the pressure to 29 PSI, today it read 26 PSI. At this point, I do not know if it is the tire or the rim.

I guess Amazon has the subaru coolant conditioner? What is the volume of that product?

Today, the mechanic looked at the car. Tires and breaks were good. The radiator hoses need to be changed before the summer. The timing belt is original and showing some cracks. It looks like the the timing belts and radiator hoses will get changed next week.

I bought a 2001 Forester today, which included only one key. The seller suggested looking on ebay or Amazon for a remote. Can anyone tell me what I need to get? What does a dealer charge for this? I would assume the process for programing the remote is online. Thanks

Wow, great tip! Okay.

Thanks. By a "full lock turn", do you mean to turn the steering way completely, and accelerate just slightly?

Thanks for the information. I just got off the phone with Subaru of America. They said that if the engine requires more than a third of a quart for 1200 miles to give them a call. At least now, I have a parameter.

Okay, thanks for the tip.

Thanks for the detailed reply. What does "FA engine" mean? If I were to go to 5W-20 weight oil, what would be the advantage? Thicker viscosity? Checking the oil level frequently is not a problem since I keep the Forester in a garage. Is there something about a manual transmission that would cause the oil to be consumed? As I said, my last Honda had a stick, and I had to add about the same amount of oil. The Honda Civic that my wife drove did not need oil, and the 2014 Impreza does not either. They have automatic transmissions.

What is "fast luvbe"? Are you referring to the "Jiffy lube" type service?

I am the original owner of a 2011 Forester with manual transmission. My current milage is about 36,000. This vehicle, takes synthetic 0W-20 weight oil. Ever since I have owned this car, I have been adding oil about every 2 weeks time. I would estimate the addition of about 200 milliliters per 2 weeks. I mentioned this to the dealer within the first year that I bought it, but they did not see anything of note. During the summer months, when I park the car, I get a burnt oil smell. My last car, a Honda Accord with manual transmission also required a small addition of oil every few weeks. The Honda lasted 12 years (130,000 miles) until it was rear ended and totaled. Is this a normal occurrence with Subaru's or the synthetic oil? Would this be a reason to call Subaru of America? There are really no performance issues, although, in warmer weather the engine "knocks" around 25 miles per hour. Thanks

Okay, thanks again for all the advice.

Thanks again. My son will be taking it off to college about 200 miles away. I am okay putting some money into it, but what should I do now? Miles, your answer is a little confusing. Should I do the fluids such as oil, coolant, and rear diff first? Or should I get the timing belt done now? He wants to head back to school in early January.

Wow, thanks for the great advice. I am planning to make the deal next Thursday. I do have the VIN number, and I will call Subaru. I suspect that the timing belt has not been done based on the milage however.

No, I did not have a mechanic check it as of yet. It was recently traded in to a local dealer, and a wholesaler or "flipper" bought it. I looked at the fluid levels, which seemed good. I looked under the car as well with no leaks noted. There is a Subaru dealer nearby but I wanted to try to get it to an good independent mechanic first. I bought the car since it had everything that my son wanted, including a 5 speed trans. What do you think the timing belt change would cost? I think the dealer said $500.

I will be picking up a 2001 Forester with 81,000 early next week. It has a 5 speed manual transmission. This will be used by my son for college, which is about 3.5 hours away. I want to bring the car to a local mechanic before my son takes it to school. Other than, oil, brakes, tires, and battery, is there anything that I should ask the mechanic to look over? This car seems to have an aftermarket radio. If I wanted to switch out the radio, is there a special size that I need? Is there a good place to buy replacement mats for this car? Thanks in advance.