Evinrude
-
Posts
18 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Evinrude
-
-
Sorry, hard to make it clear what I have here.
So the lift blocks are offset, but instead of moving the shock towards the car, they are moving them away from the car (which I assume is backwards). Makes me think they were installed the wrong way, or installed on the wrong sides.
I think I'm just going to pull both lift blocks out for a clearer idea of what I have; I'll post updated pictures then.
-
Hello all, been working on my Brat today and dealing with some issues introduced by the previous owner.
The brat already has what looks to be a 2”lift installed. I’ve been dealing with some alignment issues and discovered that the stut tops were installed in different directions (one in the fwd direction).
I got that corrected, but still seem to have an excessive amount of positive camber. Can anyone confirm if the lift tops are installed correctly?
As they are currently, the top bolts (where the lift block is connected to the strut tower) are closer to the inside of the car than where the strut is mounted...in other words, the strut sits a bit more forward and farther out than the original position.
I’m sure that is clear as mud, so I will try to attach a picture as well. Picture is the passenger side strut.
-
I was one of the ones looking for badges for my GLF. Tried a couple of dealerships, but both told me the parts lookup only goes back to 86 now?
-
1 hour ago, czny said:
https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150805-ea82-front-struts-fit-ea81/
I have a L & R pair of good used KYB FWD ea82 struts complete with springs & mounts you can have for price of shipping.
I cut the brake line tab to make removal easier - just bend it back.
PM your address & I would prefer PayPal if you have an account.
(Lower 48 US states only - in case someone here asks.)
Wow, perfect. And very generous offer, pm sent about shipping.
-
I picked up a 1982 GLF around a week ago from the original owner. I've gotten it running pretty well, installed new tires, etc, but it is in desperate need of some suspension repair.
I have spent the past couple of days reading as many threads as I could find, and while there is some good info out there, a lot of it seems to be offroad/lift centered. The problem I'm currently having is that it looks like struts for FWD EA81 cars have been discontinued.
So from what I can see, I might have a few options if I can confirm they will work. It looks like EA82 struts will mount up if the 81 strut mount is modified, or if the EA82 mount is used and holes are drilled for the 3 studs. If I can confirm this works, I might go this route. As for FWD EA82 struts, I couldn't find them listed either for 80's cars, but have been able to find them listed for the FWD Loyale Sedan (which should be the same)? I'm using mostly Rock Auto and checking with a local parts distributor for my part listings.
Another thing I found is that 4WD struts are still available. Will 4WD struts work if I use my FWD springs; and if so how will that affect the ride height if any? I'm OK if the ride height is raised if I can also raise the rear to match.
Thanks in advance for any info.
-
Decided to take my 85 Brat for a late evening cruise. I just installed the roll-bar lights and wanted to see how they would do at night. Stopped for a bit to enjoy the silence of an old farm road and snapped a picture.
-
3
-
-
1 hour ago, rdweninger said:
Nice gauge. What brand and is it a kit? Where you get one?
It’s the kit from Harbor Freight. Like most tools from there, it actually works pretty well for a DIYer that only uses it occasionally.
-
Update, got my shop gauge connected today. I used the port with the square nut, and my gauge threaded right in, no adapter needed.
Surprise, surprise (no one is surprised) the dash gauge is way off. At cold idle I’m reading around 55, and up to 70 with a throttle blip. After everything warms up and the dash gauge goes to 0, I’m still showing around 20. Again, with a blip of the throttle it jumps back up to 50.
So now I feel a lot better, and my paranoia is satiated for the moment. I plan to mount a nice/working gauge on the inside eventually, but for now all is well.
-
3
-
-
19 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
That said, you probably need a new sending unit, and it is technically acceptable for the gauge to read 0 at hot idle.
Good info, appreciated. I recall seeing the square shaped plug too. I didn't realize 0 at idle was OK (I have a "Keep your Subaru Alive and a Haynes manual, still need to find an FSM). I seem to remember my friend's EA82 keeping 50+ on oil pressure at all times, so I was thinking mine was reading low. Sounds like I'm still in good range with the per 1K rpm rules.
I installed a new sending unit this morning with no difference. I hope to get the shop gauge connected in the next few days, I'll report my findings.
-
Thanks for the suggestions, I do remember seeing that port when I had the oil pump off. I have an industrial supply store close to me that should have any thread that I need.
I hope to find with a shop gauge that my oil pressure has been fine all along, and that the dash gauge is junk. I would like to get back to driving this thing!
-
Greetings all. Not new to the forums, but I am new to older-gen Subarus.
I just picked up a 1985 Brat a few weeks ago. Now I seem to be having issues with the oil pressure.
Details, in case they are relevant:
1985 hydro lifter EA81. 133,000 miles, everything seems in good mechanical shape. Fresh 10w-40 oil and wix filter. Resealed oil pump and new sending unit. Idle set a little high at 800/850 (gets shaky with the AC on otherwise). Weber carb, and 5 speed DR swap.
So a little backstory. The Brat was running great and showing no problems until a friend and I decided to take a ~2hour trip. The oil pressure had always jumped up to around 50 when the Brat was first started, and settled down to around 25 both while driving and idling (this is on the dash gauge, which I know tend to be unreliable at best). Near the end of our trip, we noticed that when stopped and at idle, the oil pressure gauge would drop to 0. Ok, fine, I got an oil pump reseal kit with the spare parts that came with the Brat, and I figured resealing and inspecting the pump would give me peace of mind anyway.
So I drained the oil and pulled the pump. I measured it as best as I could with feeler gauges, and everything looked to be in tolerance. Physically the pump looked to be in great shape, no signs of wear that I could see. The O-rings were flat and a bit crispy, and the small O-ring on the outside was folded over a bit. I thought for sure that would be my problem. While I had the oil pump off, I did the method suggested in the keep your Subaru Alive book, and used a piece of hose to blow back through the oil inlet. I could definitely blow some air through the hose, but there was resistance (could be normal?).
I got the resealed pump back on, fresh oil and filter, and same thing; when first started, oil pressure goes up to around 50, and settles to 25 at idle. Go on a short drive, and the oil pressure drops to nothing when stopped at idle. I should probably mention that I don't hear anything amiss (lifter noise etc.) when stopped. So after this, I noticed the oil sending unit was leaking oil...so why not, I went ahead and replaced it too this morning.
Again, same behavior, pressure drops to 0 at idle after a short drive.
So anyway, my actual question. Is there a good place to connect a shop gauge other than where the oil sending unit mounts? If possible, I would like to leave the sending unit connected so I can compare the dash and shop gauges. I realize that I probably should've started with the shop gauge anyway, since the dash gauges are a known-issue...but I do want to get a real gauge on there before I pull the oil pan and start checking the oil intake (looks doable, but a PITA with the engine installed?).
...and pictures, because why not?
-
Hello all.
I have a 1997 Legacy Outback that I'm having some lighting trouble with. Currently, my park lights and running lights will not come on, so I haven't been able to drive at night. I've searched around for a solution on the net, but so far haven't been able to find my issue. Most of the threads that turn up during a search have to do with the parking lights staying on, not staying off.
So far I have checked the fuses on the drivers side and under the hood, and I've checked the relays under the hood. I've also checked all bulbs and they are good. I tried flipping the park light switch on and off to see if there was something going on there, but it is not working to switch the lights on anymore.
Anyone have an idea; common failure spots, where to check/what to do next, etc...?
-
So my new to me Outback Sport needs a clutch job (120k on original).
I'm wanting to go ahead and replace the flywheel too. I found this one on Amazon:
Now, the Amazon parts calculator says that this will fit my 2006, but Excedy's site only shows this fitting up to an 04. It's the same with ebay parts calcs (shows fitment up to some 2011s).
The only flywheel that the Excedy site lists for my 06 is a lightweight flywheel(FF02). Subaru OEM parts seem to be showing the same flywheel used in an 04 as in my 06.
So, to boil it all down, will the above flywheel fit my 06?
-
Thanks for the replys everyone. I'll probably only replace the front wheel bearings then. I'll check and see for myself if the tie rod end does need to be replaced. I know the bellows on my rack are cracked, I'll get them while I'm at it. I'm not sure if the struts are original or not.
I have been hearing a slight noise going over bumps, which I think are sway bar bushings. I was just of the mind to replace everything while I was at it, but if the parts don't fail often, sounds like I can save some cash.
-
Hi guys, I have a 97 Legacy Outback with just over 200k miles. I have a wheel bearing starting to make noise, so I am going to go ahead and replace all four of them.
I've been told twice now by my tire place that my passenger inner tie rod end needs to be replaced, so I figure I'll get that at the same time. My question is, what else should I address while I'm doing this other work? I'm thinking sway-bar endlinks and bushings for the front and rear, and maybe control arm bushings. I have been told that ball joints rarely fail on Subarus, so i'm not sure if those will need attention or not. I have even thought about doing the struts too.
My car drives and handles well overall, but I figure I'll work on what I can while I'm in there.
-
I have a 97 OBW, auto, 2.2 swap. I have a strange chirping noise that sounds like it is coming from the instrument cluster.
Based on other cars I've had, it sounds like a dry speedo or tach cable, but I haven't found much online about how to service them. Any ideas from you guys?
-
Hello everyone. Bought my first Subaru, a 1997 Outback, this weekend. I've always wanted one ever since I was a kid in the 90s and first started seeing them on TV. My friend owns a Loyale and he highly recommends this forum for knowledge and information.
I payed $1000 for my Outback, and the good news is that it has already had a 2.2 swap done (sans AC condenser, they left that out.) The only real issues were tires and valve cover gaskets. I had a set of tires put on on the way home from purchasing it, and the valve cover gaskets will be done shortly (and the AC sometime before summer).
Just wanted to introduce myself; I look forward to hanging around here and learning all I can.
Pics:
1985 Brat lift kit questions (kit already installed)
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Update, they were installed backwards. Got that corrected today...thanks to all that replied.