raleyjrr

I replaced my outback clutch about this time last year with an after market clutch. Once the engine is warm and only once it gets warm the clutch chatters when taking off from a complete stop. It shakes the motor and the entire car. It has done this from the day I put in the new clutch I just learned how to clutch it to prevent it from happening severly. Not sure if this is a clutch or flywheel problem. Any ideas?

Thanks guys. I have already pulled the engine once so I a familiar with it. I have access to an engine hoist so pulling the engine is the way to go. Because it does it only when it is warmed up and most of the time it is back and forth to work I am going to put up with it for now. If it gets worse I will tear into it. I want to get as much as I can out of the new clutch I already put into it. I wish I would have checked this forum before I put an after market clutch in it. By the way fairtax4me I put a sleeve and over size throw out bearing on when I put the new clutch in. So it has to be either the clutch plate or the flywheel causing the problem. I will either replace or machine the flywheel and buy a reputable clutch plate. Thanks again for your replies.

Thanks for your reply. What is the easiest way to replace the clutch. Pull the engine, or pull the transmission.

I recently pulled the engine on my 2004 outback and replaced the head gaskets along with other items including the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and idle bearing. All new after market parts. Once the engine is warmed up when letting out on the clutch it has a vigorous shake. The one thing I did not do that I wish I had done is to have the flywheel machined. Could it be the flywheel causing this? If so why would it not do it when the engine is cold. When the engine is cold the clutch is very smooth.

I found the problem. When I pulled the motor to replace the head gaskets I left I wire coming from the wire harness to the intake manifold finger tight. As I would drive it would lose connection. The tach would go crazy as well as the fuel gage and the temp gage. I think it was also breaking connection to the fuel pump. Anyway when I tightened it the engine light quit coming on and everything went back to normal. Thanks for everyones replies. This is a great Suby forum.

When I pulled the motor out of the car is there any chance I did not get an electrical plug somewhere plugged in good? The car ran fine for about 3 weeks. If so what would it be?

Good idea.

Thanks.

Excellent Video. Thank you.

Why would the fuel gage stop working?

I just recently purchases a 2004 Outback with a 2.5 engine that has 176,000 miles on it. It had leaking head gaskets on it and I pulled the motor and replaced them. All went well. Everything worked good for about 2 weeks and today the engine light came on. I took it to the local parts store and the code it was reporting is P1518 which is something to do with the starter Interlock relay. Later on today I was driving it again and it completely died while moving down the road. It acted like It ran out of gas. I knew it had plenty of fuel but to be sure I put 5 gallons in it. It acts like it wants to start but still seems to be starving for fuel. The fuel gage before the incident showed more than half a tank. After the incident the fuel gage would not read at all. Even after I added 5 more gallons. Any ideas? It sounds like an electrical problem of some kind to me?