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scatgo

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Posts posted by scatgo

  1. One coil and a mistake on my part. I was getting a P0325. Knock sensor malfunction code. I cleaned the block to make sure I had a good solid ground. I tested the ground with a ohm meter. With the knock sensor unplugged I touched one probe from the meter to a ground and one probe to the plug on the sensor and got  zero resistance.  Now I am getting the P1325 that IS low voltage from knock sensor. So now what? I have a good solid ground at the sensor plug.

  2. Possible causes
    - Ignition Coil No. 6 harness is open or shorted
    - Ignition Coil No. 6 circuit poor electrical connection
    - Faulty Ignition Coil No. 6
    - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
    What about the obd code?
    The P1325 Subaru code is for the ignition coil No.6 and is set when there is no IGF signal to the ECM duringengine operation.
    Symptoms
    - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
    P1325 Subaru Description

    Direct Ignition System (DIS) is a 1-cylinder ignition system that ignites one cylinder with one ignition coil. Ignitor is integral to ignition coil. The ece (ec) determines ignition timing and outputs a ignition signal (IGT) for each cylinder. Based on the IGT signals, power transistors in the ignitor cut of current to primary coil in ignition coil, causing ignition coil to fire spark plug. After delivering a command to turn off primary circuit on the IGT wire, ECM monitors IGF circuit to ensure primary switching occurred.

    Is it my coil or the ECM ? Not sure how to test the wires going baCk to the ECM.  The Car runs good but something is not right.

     

  3. Thanks for the help. The cap did the trick.  I did put a new head gasket on it when I had to replace some bent valves do to a broken timing belt. Beleve it of not the two fans have not worked in years.  Only slight overheating once in a blue moon if she was stuck in heave bumper to bumper traffic on a hot day. The fans will be  my next project so and advice on where to start looking would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thanks for the help

    Chris

  4. FYI.... A new TPS did the trick. The tps was working mechanically speaking,. Rotating  it would raise of lower the idle but the TPS code was still there. The mass air flow sensor code came up also but is now gone because of the new TPS .  About to change  the oil with a syntec and the coolant.  I heard Subaru has a coolant conditioner. Any suggestion on the type of oil and coolant?

     

    Thanks

     

    Chris

  5. After some major work I thought I was done with the car. Got the engine running but now the AT light on my dash is flashing and The trans fluid seems to be cooking. When I first started the car the every thing was fine. As I was working out some bugs with the engine I did have one of the cooling lines pop off and dump fluid all over because I forgot to tighten a hose clamp. Got the hose back on topped of the trans fluid and now the light is flashing and I can smell the transmission fluid cooking when I drive it. Any body have any ideas as to how I screwed this one up?   I am using Dexron 3  I did bypass the two steel lines that were bolted under the drivers side head and now have two rubber lines from the transmission straight to the radiator. 

  6. Thanks. The EMC just put out a code PO122 throttle/pedal position sensor/ switch A circuit low input. The TPS is a 200$ part so I am hoping its a just a lose connection. About to research that code see if I can test that sensor with my volt meter to find out whats up. Any ifo on testing that sensor would be helpful. And I did have the TPS off the Throttle body so might just be a ajustment issue? Thanks

  7. Did mix up the fuel lines. Now that I have the supply and return lines it will start up but stall after a few seconds. It did run great for a few seconds a few times. but for the most part it will start run a little rough and then stall. Any one think I may have damaged the fulel pressure regulator by having the supply and returne lines mixed up? I did remove the vac line from the fuel pressure regulator and the line is not clogged and I did try to start it with the vac line removed and I had the same start and stall situation. Not sure how to test a pressure regulator. Any suggestions as to where I may have screwed up on this would be very appreciated

     

    Thanks

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