scatgo

About to get a repair manual for my 99 forester but I am not sure what model it is. Any idea where I ould find that info? http://www.repairmanuals.co/products/subaru-repair-service-manual-choose-your-vehicle-instant-access

This is what I need to know......https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname_1942.jpg ... But I cant see that info with these old busted up eyes of mine.

It grounds at the engine block. I need to know where the other end is!

One coil and a mistake on my part. I was getting a P0325. Knock sensor malfunction code. I cleaned the block to make sure I had a good solid ground. I tested the ground with a ohm meter. With the knock sensor unplugged I touched one probe from the meter to a ground and one probe to the plug on the sensor and got zero resistance. Now I am getting the P1325 that IS low voltage from knock sensor. So now what? I have a good solid ground at the sensor plug.

1999 forster. This is where I got the info.http://www.carobdcode.com/p1325-subaru-igniter-circuit-malfunction-no-6#.V0nFkvkrLIU

I think what I need to do is test the out put from the Coil to the ECM but I am not sure how.

Not sure what you mean by #6 coil. This might sound stupid but there is only one coil.

Possible causes - Ignition Coil No. 6 harness is open or shorted - Ignition Coil No. 6 circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Ignition Coil No. 6 - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) What about the obd code? The P1325 Subaru code is for the ignition coil No.6 and is set when there is no IGF signal to the ECM duringengine operation. Symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) P1325 Subaru Description Direct Ignition System (DIS) is a 1-cylinder ignition system that ignites one cylinder with one ignition coil. Ignitor is integral to ignition coil. The ece (ec) determines ignition timing and outputs a ignition signal (IGT) for each cylinder. Based on the IGT signals, power transistors in the ignitor cut of current to primary coil in ignition coil, causing ignition coil to fire spark plug. After delivering a command to turn off primary circuit on the IGT wire, ECM monitors IGF circuit to ensure primary switching occurred. Is it my coil or the ECM ? Not sure how to test the wires going baCk to the ECM. The Car runs good but something is not right.

Keep getting a cel because of my knock sensor. Replaced it but no good. Any ides on how to test the sensor or what might be setting it off?

Any one know where I can get a refurbished ECM for a 99 Forester? Looked online but none of the big exchangers have them for Subaru and I cant find any one else selling them. Really dont want used. Thanks

Test mode? How would you do that? I am new to this.

Anyone have a diagram to help me out with the wires to the fans? Not sure why they are not working. Thanks

Replaced my knock sensor with a cheap made in china ebay knock sensor. Anyone know how to test a knock sensor? The car runs great untill the engine light comes on. Then it is slow off the line untill it picks up some speed. 1999 Forster with 20030k. only code I get is knock sensor.

Everything worked out great. Thanks

Just put a new bearing in today and the hub spins but with a lot of drag. Is the right? I dont want to put everythig back togeather if I screwed something up. Is there a way to grease them before assambley?

Thanks for the help. The cap did the trick. I did put a new head gasket on it when I had to replace some bent valves do to a broken timing belt. Beleve it of not the two fans have not worked in years. Only slight overheating once in a blue moon if she was stuck in heave bumper to bumper traffic on a hot day. The fans will be my next project so and advice on where to start looking would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help Chris

Just stated over heating. I just noticed my top radiator hose sucks shut after it starts to cool down. I made sure the hose to the overflow bottle was clear but it just wont suck the water from it. When I take the cap off the top hose pops right back into shape. Time for a new cap and or thermostat?

Thanks. That did it.

Hopeing this is it. Went from a broken timing belt to bent valves to rebuilding both heads to sensor problems. The last and only code I am getting is p0106 MAP circuit range/ performance problem. Not sure where to start with this one. Just put a new one in and the codes back. Thanks Chris

FYI.... A new TPS did the trick. The tps was working mechanically speaking,. Rotating it would raise of lower the idle but the TPS code was still there. The mass air flow sensor code came up also but is now gone because of the new TPS . About to change the oil with a syntec and the coolant. I heard Subaru has a coolant conditioner. Any suggestion on the type of oil and coolant? Thanks Chris

After some major work I thought I was done with the car. Got the engine running but now the AT light on my dash is flashing and The trans fluid seems to be cooking. When I first started the car the every thing was fine. As I was working out some bugs with the engine I did have one of the cooling lines pop off and dump fluid all over because I forgot to tighten a hose clamp. Got the hose back on topped of the trans fluid and now the light is flashing and I can smell the transmission fluid cooking when I drive it. Any body have any ideas as to how I screwed this one up? I am using Dexron 3 I did bypass the two steel lines that were bolted under the drivers side head and now have two rubber lines from the transmission straight to the radiator.

Thanks. The EMC just put out a code PO122 throttle/pedal position sensor/ switch A circuit low input. The TPS is a 200$ part so I am hoping its a just a lose connection. About to research that code see if I can test that sensor with my volt meter to find out whats up. Any ifo on testing that sensor would be helpful. And I did have the TPS off the Throttle body so might just be a ajustment issue? Thanks

PS. The engine light is on but no codes. But my code reader says it is resseting the ECM but the engine light wont go off.

Did mix up the fuel lines. Now that I have the supply and return lines it will start up but stall after a few seconds. It did run great for a few seconds a few times. but for the most part it will start run a little rough and then stall. Any one think I may have damaged the fulel pressure regulator by having the supply and returne lines mixed up? I did remove the vac line from the fuel pressure regulator and the line is not clogged and I did try to start it with the vac line removed and I had the same start and stall situation. Not sure how to test a pressure regulator. Any suggestions as to where I may have screwed up on this would be very appreciated Thanks

Thanks. If it ever stops snowing and raining around here Ill look into it.