scatgo

Will take a better look at the fuel line setup. There is a third one. think its evap vac line. It looks smaller in diameter. Started raining pretty hard so I had to bail on this situation. Did take a fast look a a fuel line diagram while dealing with the but it was a rush job because of the rain. @ IMdew Yea can hear the fuel pump. Was VERY careful when I set up the timing belt. And yes it will run when I spray brake fluid into the intake.

Just did some major work on my 1999 Forester. Replaced two bent valves because timing belt broke. Rebuilt bolth heads. Rebuilt intake manifold. Installed timing belt kit. Just got every thing together and it wont start. Ignition system seems ok. Getting a nice fat spark. Engine will run a little when I sprayed some brake cleaner into throttle body. Pulled off the fuel supply line that goes from the new gas filter to the metal line that feed the injectors and gas sprayed out with some good pressure. After hooking the supply line up I removed the return fuel line and nothing will come out of it when I try to start it up. Any suggestions as to where I may have screwed up on this would be very appreciated. Thank You Chris

Sorry but its 1999 forester

The part that don"t sound right is that they suggest a fraction of a tooth. 46.8 for Z1? Should I just round that off to 47 or am I not getting something here? If the original marks on the timing belt are worn or faded, make new alignment marks in the positions indicated-1998-2004. Make alignment and/or arrow marks on the timing belt in relation to the sprockets as indicated in the accompanying illustration. Z1: 46.8 tooth length Z2: 43.7 tooth length

Got my heads from my 99 Forester on my work bench right now. Would like to set the tappet clearance before I put the head back on but I cant find the specs. Anyone have this information? Thanks

Thanks

Just got my camshaft out. The plate that held it in looked like it may have had some kind of silicone sealant between it and the top of the head instead . Was that a gasket? If not any type of permatex RTV will work? Thanks

Thanks

Or just very tight? Trying to get the camshaft sprockets off my 1999 Forester. Having a hard time. Just wondering if anyone knows if they are left hand threads? Thyanks

Thanks. Something just sounded wrong with that info. Peace

Thanks

Tighten the cylinder head bolts as follows: Step 1: Torque all the bolts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm). Step 2: Torque all the bolts in sequence to 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm). Step 3: Loosen all bolts in sequence by 180 degrees, then loosen an additional 180 degrees. Step 4: Tighten all bolts in sequence: 40-45 degrees. This is the information I found online for my 1999 SOHC engine. I have dealt with a few head gasket jobs and the torque specs were somewhat higher and I never had to loosen all bolts 360 degrees in two steps. I broke a 1/2 inch drive ratchet that i needed to use a cheater bar on to get the head bolts loose because the were very tight so these specs just don,t sound right. What do you people think? Thanks

Have the heads of of my 1999 Forester and I can see lots of a black tar like goo all over the top of the heads. I can clean this off no problem because the heads are off but i would guess the inside of the engine looks just as bad. Are there any oil additive you guys would recommend to remove heavy sludge deposits from inside a engine. And what would cause such a situation? Maybe a bad PCV valve? Thanks Chris

Didnt see this coming. Did the right side no problem. I thought the left side was going to go the same way. Once I saw things not going well it started to rain so I just had to do what I had to do to get it out and button things up for a few days of bad weather. Thanks for the info people

Had the timing belt break on my 1999 forester. Just pulled both cylinder heads off to look for any valve or piston damage. The right side head came off without much fuss but the top rear head bolt on the left side hits the frame of the car about a 1/2 inch short of being completely out of the block. It was dark, cold and starting to rain so I just cut that one bolt so I could get that head off. When it comes time to put the dam head back on am I going to have to remove motor mounts so I can shift the engine over to get the new bolts in or did I screw up? Thanks

Thanks bro. You really know you S$%t.

Thanks. Got a lot done today. Wondering why the right side cam sprocket has about 45 degrees free play. Left side can move but 100% resistence as should be. Maybe bent rocker? Or cam lobe shaved down?

Any one know if the head bolts are 12 point metric or torx. If torx any one know the size?

Just did the head gasket and put some stage 2 cams in my PT Cruiser so I am sure I can do this. Thanks I am glad to hear this. The Forester belongs to my nice. It was her brothers and he died not to long ago so the car means a lot to her. If I had to replace a piston do you know if I would I be able to get to the connecting rod bolts via the oil pan?

just pulled back a section of timing belt cover and have confirmed that the timing belt is broke. Cant belive I missed that. The motor turns over so easy because vales open and maybe bent and maybe holes in the pistons because the belt broke. Do these engines crap out when the belt breaks? Interference engine? Thanks Chris

Update after turning over the engine the cam sensor code came back. Broken timing belt?

Sorry people but I did find the data link. It had a stored cam sensor code but I just replaced the cam sensor so I reset the ecm and now I have no codes and still no spark. Suggestions please. Thanks Chris

Replaced cam sensor and no good. Just found my code reader but cant find the data link under the dash. Have a autoxray OBD2 reader. Will it work on a Subaru?

Any way to test cam sensor?

Thumbs up on the Fluid Film! Good stuff.