Fairbanks

There are tons of older Subaru's up here. People love them. I'll look into doing the bearings. $28 per bearing and $7.99 and $6.99 for the seals. Alaska prices. - I seafoamed the intake, fuel, and oil with no noticeable changes in performance. - 4WD low range could be a syncro thing, but if that's the case I should be able to grind it into gear. I've messed around with it quite a bit now. The shifter has a noticeable stop point for 4WD high range which works fine. It also has a noticeable stop point for low range, but upon releasing the clutch, the transfer case is in neutral position. The low range light is illuminated in this position. The lever can be pushed further forward - about 2 inches - with very little resistance. At full forward position, the transfer case grinds in all gears and neutral with no engagement, almost as though I've extended the gear set past the appropriate position. - I'm picking up the fuel filter today - The exhaust is mostly rust free with the exception of the muffler. I'm thinking of pulling the cats myself and installing a new muffler, but this car is becoming somewhat of a time / money sink. On the other hand, when isn't a car a time and money sink?

Gotcha. I misread your last post. 20 - 30 miles every day for the past three weeks. I think low end torque (2nd and 3rd gear) is improving, but hard saying without any way to quantify it besides reckoning. Clogged cats also crossed my mind. You can do just about anything in Alaska. I'll check around to see if I can get away with a cat clean out.

Thanks for all the awesome info! To answer some of the follow up questions: - The car was sitting for a claimed 3 years before I picked it up. It bogs at 5200 rpm, which could be the fuel filter, or other cylinder buildup. I'll replace that this afternoon. - I'll try the seafoam treatment. Driving around, it does remind me of a early 80's tercel I picked up 15 year ago which had significant carbon buildup from being run at low rpms only for years. That cleared up after a couple thousand open highway miles. - 4WD high works great. I use it every day during thaw. I've seen motocross courses tamer than my driveway. - I've given the wheel with the grinding noise the wiggle test to check the bearings. It seems tight. I'll check it periodically throughout the summer.

Thanks guys, I'll check it out. Any idea on the 4WD shifting?

I just picked up a 1988 Subaru GL fuel injected. It has some valve clicking that goes away when warm, and some grinding noise tied to tire rotation speed from the driver's side from wheel area I can't seem to isolate. Perhaps calipers since it does it with the wheel off, though much quieter. The real problems I've noticed however are: - I can't seem to get it into 4WD Low (tried doing it stopped, in neutral, rolling in second gear with clutch in, and rolling in reverse with clutch in) - It's hugely underpowered, like having to shift into 2nd gear to go up a hill I was able to accelerate up in 4th gear in my 1991 Legacy - I'm only getting 20 mpg in mostly 55 mph highway driving in mild temperatures Things I've checked out so far: - New wires, plugs, and distributer - Oil change to 10w/40 for valve noise (no difference) - Tie rod ends and rack & pinion adjustment for grinding noise (eliminated noises while turning, but not while driving straight) - Air filter replacement - New battery - Oil pressure is 55 psi under acceleration, 25 - 30 psi at idle - Thermostat is good Things I was told about the car: - Car was sitting for three years, after which the following were installed: - New timing belt - New oil pan gaskets - New fuel filter and pump - New water pump and thermostat Thanks for your help!