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It's been years so I may be wrong, but it seems like some VWs had the cyls lock in the head.
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I'm sure you are seeing your area's problems. I have not heard about rod bearing failures yet on phase 2s. I've only heard of a few phase 1 rod bearing failures after repair and I always wondered just how bad they were in the first place. Come to think of it the failures do have something in common, Donner pass in the mountains. This was also where a revered board member bit the dust (with original head gaskets).
Now I have to worry about my rod bearings on the way home. The phase 2s are just getting old enough to have the big problems now.
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I should not have mentioned my engine then. No I meant the DOHCs when I said rod bearing failure and I suspect the cause is very much as Rallykeith postulates, plus a bit more load.
I merely used my phase 2 as an example to prove I would change any head gasket that was suspect.
They did manage to contain the cylinder gasses with the same wimpy sealing surface on the phase 2, so it can be done. Now if they can just keep the coolant in the engine at the same time....
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Some of the high mileage ones have had rod bearing failure after replacement. I'm sure the overheating does an engine no good and for me preemptive replacment would be in order. I put my money where my mouth was after all and had my head gaskets replaced on my Phase 2 at about 89,000. All I had was a tiny weep mark.
The 2.5 is going to put a bit more strain on an engine for the few ccs more and who knows what too much is.
If I had a 2.5 that was otherwise perfect and had high mileage I'd probably risk a gasket change. If it was already burning a bit of oil I think I'd call Emily.
No arguement the 2.2 could hit 300,000 while the car falls apart around it.
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I think it will probably go at least as long as the OE gasket if properly installed. It is always tougher to get a second gasket to work well.
In most cases that will see one of these engines to the end of the rod bearings and rings.
In MHO most engines are pretty knackered at 200,000 or so and take a bit of looking after if you nurse one to 300,000, at least in normal use. If you do the high mileage on a longer commute it is much easier on the engine.
At over 130,000 my Forester is still going fine but you have to watch the oil. By being fiddly about it I expect to see 200,000 before I sell it to some kid who will probably blow it up.
In most cases I think the last fix gaskets will last the remaining life of the engine. If somebody did not get the block and head clean and flat, or there is stuff in the headbolt holes all bets are off.
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There are some guys on the west coast that use these engines in sand buggies all hopped up. They fill in the block gaps with machined alloy and weld them. Expensive as heck.
The intake charge cools the intake side so the exhaust side suffers, and yes blowby removes the material. The cheapest way for Subaru to fix this is to have a gasket material tough enough to tolerate movement and that's what they have done. O ringing would also fix it but that costs a bomb.
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Are those loops from a boat shop? I may go that way too. After a mind numbing trip to DMV my trailer is completly registered and my bike half way.
When the verification officer asked me for weight I said under 150 pounds and picked up the trailer to demonstrate. At least she laughed.
The car does not even seem to notice the trailer other than the rattles on bumps.
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that one is very similar to mine. I won't be putting it in the back of my Forester though!
Good idea to save bouncing.
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Yes on the loctite. most of the critcal fasters already use nylocks and cotter pins which kink of surprised me.
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I belive it has the 8 inch wheels. I think that should be plenty to haul my sidecar outfit and go to Home Depot.
If I was going to do some highway or off road work I would prefer larger wheels. Sure is easy to roll around by yourself compared to other trailers I've had.
Good tip on the larger wheel bolt pattern fitment. I'll save that because you never know what you may want to do later.
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Installed lights and wiring harness today. It took another hour. Now we'll see how a Forester pulls it after a DMV trip,
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Sorry, your pen name threw me off.
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The few folks I've known who had the H6 have had zero problems. I've heard complaints about premium fuel being reccomended and that's about it. Very few problem posts I've seen, but folks get sticker shock on a spark plug change.
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Are there any US MB ers nearby who will volunteer to help her check this out? If she was in CA i'd have a look for her? Sounds like clutch time to me and a good mechanic she can trust would be in order.
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Sounds like clutch slip if the car is a manual.....
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I put the trailer together after work except for lights. It took about an hour and a half, but I did cheat and use an air ratchet. I loaned out my Subie so I can't test the lights for a couple of days until the Forester is back. I like to test before I solder.
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If a 2.2 does not fit a 99 Forester my plans for engine replacement when the 2.5 dies may take a hit.
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The only experience I have here is my own and the replies from several other folks.
I got PO420 a couple of years ago and since I have California converters it was going to be about a grand to replace the exhaust.
I figure since I had nearly 100,000 miles on it the front sensor was timed out anyway so it was worth a shot. I bought both front and rear sensors but only installed the front to see how long the rear will last, I reckon its life is easier.
So for $60 or so I have been code free for a couple of years and over 30,000 miles.
If I was going to change those expensive bloody converters I would also add a new ox sensor anyway for insurance. Why not try one first as it is worth the chance?
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I'm not sure how it would be in winter snows, but the stability control on my BMW is so non intrusive I leave it on all the time now. It tends to do exactly what I would do but sometimes a bit faster. If you were going to drift a car I'm sure you would be smart enough to defeat the control.
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Frankly guys bearings are standard size units the world over. Just take one for numbers and go to a good bearing house. Some of you probably see Bearing Engineering on Mythbusters. That's the one I like too. You match it up and you will have many choices in that size for strength and sealing.
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The last time I built a trailer it was a prototype moblie sales trailer for tose huge early sattleite disks. I went to a junkyard and got a Toranado rear end and welded up a lot of steel channel. I had levelers on each corner and I think the floor was plywood. This has got to be easier.
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so I bought a hitch for my 99 Forester from etrailer. It was a bit of a struggle to get the hitch on as usual. It's hard to hold everything above you and get the bolts in. A neighbor and a jack were a big help. I did not have to redrill anything and the powder coat finish looks good.
Now I'm going to build one of those tiny trailers from Harbor Freight. I have the box of bolts and fittings on the floor here now, and even though I have not yet found directions it looks pretty self explanatory.
A little thousand pound capacity trailer for $245 including tax may make the Forester into a mini pickup truck for me.
Last week I hauled several sheets of sheet rock and 22 2x4s and it was a pain. I thought I was really abusing my car until I saw the guy loading cement into his minivan. The sparks from his rear bumper were amusing.
I'll let you guys know how the little trailer turns out. In a couple of weeks I expect it to pay for itself as I plan to pick up a 750 pound sidecar rig from the freight docks in Oakland. That will pay for it right there in the delivery charge.
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Soon Subarus will be Toyotas, you're just getting a jump on us.
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out here Autozone reads codes for free.
Cold weather brake problems
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I think I also recall a problem folks had that the pedal stayed hard and the brakes had little pressure. I believe subaru said that was a few defective master cyls. Usually when I've seen that it was the booster.