warmwind76

In my first post on this topic, I initially made this comment: "I came across references to an automatic transmission drive inhibitor switch/neutral safety switch on the side of the tranny. Could the mechanic, when reinstalling the transmission, have somehow dorked this switch up a bit?" Seems I was sniffing down the right trail after all. The shop manager, who had also being working the problem(s), ordered an inhibitor switch from the local Subie dealer. When he was pulling the original off, he happened to notice that one of the connector pins was bent. He straightened it out and plugged the unit back in. Tranny function returned to normal. TCM is getting connection. All shift indicators display normally. Of course, the drive indicator bulb was replaced, no doubt because the mechanic had mashed the connector into place, bent one of the pins, which probably overloaded/shorted that circuit to pop the filament. Through their troubleshoointing of the problem, at some point they had pulled the inhibitor switch out again and plugged it back in without noticing the bent pin. Even though all other electrical systems were functioning, the engine would not even turn over, the none of the shift indicators would light, and the shift lock release would not disenage. Strangely though, there were no trouble codes reported, either on their scanner or my ScanGauge II. So I have my Forester back finally. Apart from a couple of odd behaviors from the coolant temperature gauge and the speedometer, all is running smoothly.

No flash. No light at all. However, the shop pulled the cluster and the bulb (!!) for the D is burnt out - it was fine before. I doubt though a new bulb will magically fix the spoob problem. I did specifically ask if they ran a code scan, and no codes are being thrown. This has crossed the line into the bizarre. This whole experience of getting the head gaskets replaced has turned into a series of mishaps created by the shop. The shop has had my Forester for a month now. I am not being charged addiotnal monies for these new problems. Bottom line though is I do not have my main vehicle. Good thing I have my backup old reliable 89 Toyota pick'em up. It's a gas pig though. I am unhappy. Next time, I be finding a shop with some good specific experience with Subarus.

I also came across this from this site: http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/93982/shifty-subaru "This TSB involves diagnosing P0851 (neutral switch input circuit low) and P0852 (neutral switch input circuit high) on 2005-2008 Subaru Outback, Impreza and Forester vehicles equipped with the 4EAT. Using the Subaru Select Monitor, check for diagnostic trouble codes stored in memory. If P0851 and/or P0852 are stored in memory, adjust the inhibitor switch and select cable. Set the select lever to the N range. Loosen the three inhibitor switch securing bolts. Insert special tool 499267300 stopper pin as vertical as possible into the holes in the inhibitor switch lever and switch body. Tighten the three inhibitor switch securing bolts to 2.5 ft.-lbs. and then remove the special tool (pin). With the select lever already in the N range, loosen the adjusting nuts A and B on both sides. Turn the adjusting nut B until it lightly touches the connector. Use a spanner wrench to hold nut B so that it does not rotate, and then tighten the adjusting nut A to 5.5 ft.-lbs. After the completion of adjustment, confirm that the select lever operates normally at all ranges. - Move the select lever from P to D. Check that the detents can be felt in each range. If the detents cannot be felt or the position pointer (dash indicator) is improperly aligned, re-adjust the cable. - Check if the start motor rotates when the select lever is set to the P range. - Check that the back-up light illuminates when the select lever is in the R range. - Check the parking lock operation when the select lever is in the P range. Using the Subaru Select Monitor, clear all DTCs stored in memory. If the codes return after the correct adjustments, refer to the diagnostic procedure found in the applicable Subaru service manual."I am passing this along to the shop that is hopefully unbreaking my Forester.

I don't think I be requiring a new tranny yet. But thanks for offering.

My thanks, Istevens76, for your reply. And big thanks for the link to the factory service manual. Downloaded and being persused. First, it was thought it was the replacement rack and pinion that was put in a month ago that was leaking. The original was definitely leaking at the seal where the steering shaft goes in. It was not that The tranny was pulled back because it was then thought it was not the rack and pinion but rather the main bearing that had gone south. With the exhaust and the cross member concealing much of the bottom of the engine, it was difficult to determine where the leak was coming from. However, it was discovered that it was indeed the head gasket on the bottom, driver's side. Yeah, not a Subie specialized shop. I have been working with this particular shop for years on my other vehicles. However, they had not done anything this complex for me before. There were other glitches with this whole rebuild thing. A learning experience for all to be sure. The AT dash indicator in the cluster illuminated as usual and went out. The tranny could be throwing a code. I'll have them check that out. I didn't think of that myself. I have a ScanGauge II I mounted up and that may display an Error Code re the tranny. And possibly reset it. It has been useful in that manner before with a fuel system error (in this case, P0442, Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected, which turned out to be the gas cap. I reset using the Scan Gauge). Or it could be the tranny harness was poorly connected back up. The backup lights were also not working. Because the mechanic did not fully push the connectors together, One of those glitches I mentioned. Or it could be the inhibitor switch/neutral safety switch. Could be this. Could be that. Jayz I hate this stuff! These problems were not there before. The shop is working to get all this resolved.

I have a 2004 Forester XS Premium, 2.5 non-turbo, 142,000 on the odo. Just had the engine rebuilt because of a leaking head gasket (dripping oil significantly onto the driver's side exhaust). Apart from a problem getting the cam cover on one side to seal properly and a couple of other minor problems, the rebuild went well. The engine runs fine. However (there's always an however, isn't there), a couple of issues with the auto transmission have arisen. First I noted that the indicator light on the dash for Drive does not illuminate - all the other AMT indicator lights do. I work up a mountain, so I shift down to Third to use engine braking. When shfiting back to Drive, the transmission does not: it stays in Third. I can shift to Neutral, then to Drive, and the transmission does go into Drive. The dash indicator for Drive does not illuminate. This behavior is repeatable and consistent. Of course, the tranny was removed for the engine rebuild. The shop manager thinks there may be a correlation with a burnt out Drive LED and the circuit not being properly completed. I suspect not. After doing some poking about on the net and here, I came across references to an automatic transmission drive inhibitor switch/neutral safety switch on the side of the tranny. Could the mechanic, when reinstalling the transmission, have somehow dorked this switch up a bit? Does it needs to be relaced or can it be readjusted? Or could this be a problem with the TCM and it needs to be reset? This is a strange one, it is.